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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-01-2017, 11:43 AM
  #5056  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
Will these work for us?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...232059/p553890


Or really, are there any bone options for the wide pivot that will allow the use of the MIP diff (aluminum outdrives)? Like maybe these:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-...xo1708/p543356
It's these:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...232052/p499658

Couldn't tell you about puck driveshafts...I don't use pucks.
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Old 01-01-2017, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
There are no obvious signs internally that could be causing the issue? Are those cut gears? Could be an issue there...
Hey there, yes they are cut gears but to make sure they aren't the issue I tried with the stock internals.. same exact issue.
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Old 01-01-2017, 11:47 AM
  #5058  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
We are running the 67mm bones combined with the offset rear hub bearing spacers that move the bearings and axle out 1.5mm. The longer bones get the driveshaft back into outdrive in the proper spot. This combination on the laydown car makes the rear end squat real hard under acceleration. Gives more grip under power.
The way you describe it makes me want to try it, but I got some questions first.

pushing everything 1.5mm out, how does that affect side bite? I run 5mm rear hexes vs the stock ones to narrow the rear of the car which has made the car easier to drive a little more aggressively in and out of the corners.

I have more but have to come back to this.
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Old 01-01-2017, 11:55 AM
  #5059  
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Originally Posted by remix
Hey there, yes they are cut gears but to make sure they aren't the issue I tried with the stock internals.. same exact issue.
Make sure all the bearings are seated properly. Aside from that, try a new transmission case.
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:19 PM
  #5060  
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy
The way you describe it makes me want to try it, but I got some questions first.

pushing everything 1.5mm out, how does that affect side bite? I run 5mm rear hexes vs the stock ones to narrow the rear of the car which has made the car easier to drive a little more aggressively in and out of the corners.

I have more but have to come back to this.
Bottom line, on the laydown car, this setup will never come off my car on dirt, period.
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:39 PM
  #5061  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
Bottom line, on the laydown car, this setup will never come off my car on dirt, period.
do you know if there are compatible bones that you can still run pucks and the wide pivot hubs?
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:42 PM
  #5062  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
do you know if there are compatible bones that you can still run pucks and the wide pivot hubs?
I believe there is. Just look to see if mip makes their version of the losi 67mm bones
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:44 PM
  #5063  
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I'm sure this has been asked before so sorry but what advantage does removing 2 gears from the diff make?. I have seen quite a few setups that mention 2 gears.
Thank
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
I believe there is. Just look to see if mip makes their version of the losi 67mm bones
They have bones for the losi's but it doesn't state their length.
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:50 PM
  #5065  
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Where can we pick up the hub bearing spacers?
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Old 01-01-2017, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Make sure all the bearings are seated properly. Aside from that, try a new transmission case.
I'm thinking a New transmission case is required at this point. I'll pick one up Tuesday.. ugh I just wanted to get this car built!!!

Thanks for the help!
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Old 01-01-2017, 02:23 PM
  #5067  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
I believe there is. Just look to see if mip makes their version of the losi 67mm bones
MIP #16131

It does not mention if they are 67mm or the stock length.
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Old 01-01-2017, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
Bottom line, on the laydown car, this setup will never come off my car on dirt, period.
Okay, so you have me convinced to try it. I am gonna try it with the MIP axles as I do have pucks in the car now.

Only problem is I can not find the BMI spacers. Ive googled everything I could to try to find them and have no idea what they look like or what they do even. Their website is terrible, the online store does not work and their facebook page doesnt seem like its been used in years. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-01-2017, 04:32 PM
  #5069  
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy
Okay, so you have me convinced to try it. I am gonna try it with the MIP axles as I do have pucks in the car now.

Only problem is I can not find the BMI spacers. Ive googled everything I could to try to find them and have no idea what they look like or what they do even. Their website is terrible, the online store does not work and their facebook page doesnt seem like its been used in years. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Try this:

[email protected]
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Old 01-01-2017, 11:10 PM
  #5070  
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Finally finished... for the most part caught up on this thread. I have a B6... What the consensus on the rear shocks?? stock position or flipped to the rear of the shock tower?

-Rich
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