TLR 22 5.0
#706
It's good if you need more grip and I have used it on the 4.0 on wet slippery astro but I prefer keeping them on the front and adding the 25g rear weight as it keeps the weight within the wheelbase.
#710
Tech Adept
Great Astro car!
No issues with shock rod ends. No issues at all actually!
Racing on high bite Astro. Up to speed immediately with few changes.
Car was an easy build; far better than the 4.0 I had. Great fit and finish. Still no suspension slop after the equivalent of four race nights and I’ve broken nothing.
i am going to try the brass front pivot block. Wish there was a slightly lighter one.
Anyway, if you had a 4.0 and weren’t happy with the build, don’t worry. This kit is great!
Racing on high bite Astro. Up to speed immediately with few changes.
Car was an easy build; far better than the 4.0 I had. Great fit and finish. Still no suspension slop after the equivalent of four race nights and I’ve broken nothing.
i am going to try the brass front pivot block. Wish there was a slightly lighter one.
Anyway, if you had a 4.0 and weren’t happy with the build, don’t worry. This kit is great!
#711
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (4)
Don't have any issues with rod ends either. I decided to change things up. Switched the direct drive for a slipper, added +2mm towers, low front wing, new bearings, some titanium motor screws, and swaybars to see how they affect handling. I know buying option parts is unnecessary, but I love testing stuff out and tinkering at my desk
Also I'm taking an engineering graphics course and for my final assignment i decided to model a front G3 shock! Was a neat project and learned some new techniques.
Also I'm taking an engineering graphics course and for my final assignment i decided to model a front G3 shock! Was a neat project and learned some new techniques.
#712
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
I'm in a TLR 22 FB group. There was a thread when the kit first released where a batch of people were posting pics of them losing the end piece. So far though this has been my only issue with the kit. I love it, and it is a great upgrade from my 4.0. Given the spot where the end broke, I'm going to assume that the poor thing couldn't withstand the force of all that extra high speed cornering the 5.0 opened up on carpet tracks.
#713
Tech Regular
Don't have any issues with rod ends either. I decided to change things up. Switched the direct drive for a slipper, added +2mm towers, low front wing, new bearings, some titanium motor screws, and swaybars to see how they affect handling. I know buying option parts is unnecessary, but I love testing stuff out and tinkering at my desk
Also I'm taking an engineering graphics course and for my final assignment i decided to model a front G3 shock! Was a neat project and learned some new techniques.
Also I'm taking an engineering graphics course and for my final assignment i decided to model a front G3 shock! Was a neat project and learned some new techniques.
#714
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Just curious, but, have you had the chance to compare how the buggy handles, comparing the stock front wing vs no front wing vs low front wing, especially on dirt/clay? I've seen a couple people running the stock front wing (as I have), and some running without any front wing, but I haven't seen anyone (yet) running a low front wing.
#715
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (4)
Just curious, but, have you had the chance to compare how the buggy handles, comparing the stock front wing vs no front wing vs low front wing, especially on dirt/clay? I've seen a couple people running the stock front wing (as I have), and some running without any front wing, but I haven't seen anyone (yet) running a low front wing.
I figured I’d try it out because I have a feeling the high front wing disrupts enough air flow to the rear wing to make a noticeable difference. I’ll see how it handles the fastest turns on the track. Another reason I got it is because it less of an eye sore and hopefully will last longer in the lower position.
#717
What size drill bit are you guys using to drill out the ballcup
#718
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
Don't have any issues with rod ends either. I decided to change things up. Switched the direct drive for a slipper, added +2mm towers, low front wing, new bearings, some titanium motor screws, and swaybars to see how they affect handling. I know buying option parts is unnecessary, but I love testing stuff out and tinkering at my desk
Also I'm taking an engineering graphics course and for my final assignment i decided to model a front G3 shock! Was a neat project and learned some new techniques.
Also I'm taking an engineering graphics course and for my final assignment i decided to model a front G3 shock! Was a neat project and learned some new techniques.
#719
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
EDIT: never mind, I think we are referring to 2 different thing. I was just making a hole in the cup for easy access to the ballstud.
I drilled one of mine out yesterday and used a 2 mm bit. i had to "massage" it a bit to get my driver into the hole. That said, i haven't put it on the turnbuckle, or popped it on a ballstud, so i can't comment on how or if it works.
I drilled one of mine out yesterday and used a 2 mm bit. i had to "massage" it a bit to get my driver into the hole. That said, i haven't put it on the turnbuckle, or popped it on a ballstud, so i can't comment on how or if it works.
#720
Just curious, but, have you had the chance to compare how the buggy handles, comparing the stock front wing vs no front wing vs low front wing, especially on dirt/clay? I've seen a couple people running the stock front wing (as I have), and some running without any front wing, but I haven't seen anyone (yet) running a low front wing.