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TLR 22 5.0

Old 01-13-2020, 10:45 AM
  #1456  
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Originally Posted by fifi
5.0 AC come with sway bar.
Does it have all of them or just one front and one rear?
It just comes with one set.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:46 AM
  #1457  
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I am trying to dial out steering in my 5.0 Elite. Does changing the Trail setting to 4mm ..... using the #6 spindle ... and mounting the front caster block to the outer holes of the arm (making the width wide) help dial steering out? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Last edited by Phillip F; 01-13-2020 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 01-13-2020, 11:27 AM
  #1458  
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Hello everyone. I've been running Black CRC carpet since about Novmber with my 5.0 AC. I have a couple of questions.
1. Everyone at the track has been running Pro-line front pre-mount wedge tires mainly Z3. I run those also. The question is about offset. I originally use the kit TLR front wheels with the wedges and my front end pushed really bad. After switching to the pre-mounts that stick out farther I no longer had this issue. I have become extremely comfortable with my car this way. What could I adjust on my front end to switch back to the correct original offset and not push during steering/on power steering?

2. Due to my poor driving I have broken several front shock shafts and A-arms. Mainly LH side. Will the TiCN shafts help or should I look at converting to 3.5 mm shocks?

Thank you for your suggestions!!
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Old 01-13-2020, 11:47 AM
  #1459  
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Originally Posted by rc10t4orange
Hello everyone. I've been running Black CRC carpet since about Novmber with my 5.0 AC. I have a couple of questions.
1. Everyone at the track has been running Pro-line front pre-mount wedge tires mainly Z3. I run those also. The question is about offset. I originally use the kit TLR front wheels with the wedges and my front end pushed really bad. After switching to the pre-mounts that stick out farther I no longer had this issue. I have become extremely comfortable with my car this way. What could I adjust on my front end to switch back to the correct original offset and not push during steering/on power steering?

2. Due to my poor driving I have broken several front shock shafts and A-arms. Mainly LH side. Will the TiCN shafts help or should I look at converting to 3.5 mm shocks?

Thank you for your suggestions!!
Thereís 1mm of front axle offset adjustment you could use to push the front out wheels farther if you like that. Spacers on the the inside you could move out.
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Old 01-13-2020, 12:40 PM
  #1460  
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5.0 AC does come with 0 pill for transmission case.
Is 3.5 pointing down the same as the one marked 0.
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Old 01-13-2020, 07:34 PM
  #1461  
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Originally Posted by fifi
5.0 AC does come with 0 pill for transmission case.
Is 3.5 pointing down the same as the one marked 0.
yes. 3.5 down is same as 0 up
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Old 01-14-2020, 01:54 AM
  #1462  
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Thanks
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Old 01-14-2020, 02:58 AM
  #1463  
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Hi all,

Does anybody know what the outside diameter and thicknesses are for the TLR236010 M3 Aluminium Washer Set ?
Looking at the 22 5.0 user manual it looks like it uses 0.5, 1 & 2mm thick ball stud washers, so i assume that is whats also in this bag ?
Hoping these are 7.5mm OD as on my 22 3.0

Thank you.
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Old 01-14-2020, 03:45 AM
  #1464  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
I am trying to dial out steering in my 5.0 Elite. Does changing the Trail setting to 4mm ..... using the #6 spindle ... and mounting the front caster block to the outer holes of the arm (making the width wide) help dial steering out? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
before going through that, move the shocks inboard on the tower to loose the twitch. Just adjust ride height setting afterward. Also you could move the shims on the steering block to all on the bottom essentially lowering the spindle height creating more rear grip on power. Most of what you stated will also help eliminate steering to a degree.
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Old 01-14-2020, 04:05 AM
  #1465  
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Originally Posted by rc10t4orange
Hello everyone. I've been running Black CRC carpet since about Novmber with my 5.0 AC. I have a couple of questions.
1. Everyone at the track has been running Pro-line front pre-mount wedge tires mainly Z3. I run those also. The question is about offset. I originally use the kit TLR front wheels with the wedges and my front end pushed really bad. After switching to the pre-mounts that stick out farther I no longer had this issue. I have become extremely comfortable with my car this way. What could I adjust on my front end to switch back to the correct original offset and not push during steering/on power steering?

2. Due to my poor driving I have broken several front shock shafts and A-arms. Mainly LH side. Will the TiCN shafts help or should I look at converting to 3.5 mm shocks?

Thank you for your suggestions!!
As stated many times before , using the wrong front wheel will completely throw off the geometry of the front suspension, not in a good way. I think it makes the front nearly 10mm too wide. Z3 tires seem to be very hard , and do push . I tested back to back brand new Z3 and Z4 wedges this past weekend, and there was a night and day difference between the 2. On our gray carpet track Z4 would be the way to go, and possibly with CRC black carpet Z3 may be acceptable. I will have the opportunity to test in a few weeks. I'm waiting on a new track to open its doors. . I typically run Schumacher tires, but hate gluing the front tire on the rim. The bead design of the Schumacher, and now Proline with their G3 version wedge make for some difficult times for all the 22 owners on the carpet. I have not found a easy way to glue front double beaded tires. Anyone looking to start a career in gluing front tires for the 22 , I'm all ears. I am looking to hire a tire gluer full time!. I destroyed a brand new pair of tires at the track attempting to glue them. Now the older Proline tire doesn't use the Schumacher style bead and glue just fine. But they will be gone eventually.
To get rid of on power push :
More castor
More internal limiters on the front shock to eliminate chassis movement and ride height on power
I'm using the #5 steering ackerman plate and require no more steering. My travel is set to 65% on the radio on each endpoint.
Add the 25g brass shim ontop of the aluminum or original plastic bulkhead . There is also a 50g brass bulkhead, but I feel it was too much nose weight for 17.5 racing.

As for the strength of the TiCN shafts for the 3.0 or 3.5 shock being any stronger than the standard kit version is not true. They offer a coating to make them smoother, called Black Diamond by some others. They are above the TiNi shafts(gold) in quality. I use them in my 3.0 shocks, and a super smooth, but costly FYI. Use the standard front arm instead of the stiffezel version may help, also if your track is cool inside or you store your pit bag in a non climate controlled environment, plastics usually dont like this. Try to keep them at room temperature as much as possible. I've seen many times before people breaking parts unexplained for rhyme or reason. Then I ask how they store their stuff. Cold and summer heat are major factors in durability issues. I've been known to preheat my buggies 20 minutes prior to racing if I feel the air below say 60-65įf. I set the buggy in the car with the heat on full , until it was time to run. It helps many things, oils, plastics, tires. Here in the south we race outdoors nearly all year. One track even has a soft sided building. But temps fall as the sun goes down, and people dont realize the variance of the ambient air temperature and how it effects everything. Pay attention next time , if this is the case.

I hope I helped a little.
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Old 01-14-2020, 10:15 AM
  #1466  
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Hi all, I'm having trouble dialing in my Elite on high-bite indoor astro. I started with Frank Roots most recent carpet setup and then made a couple of changes due to necessity (cost and/or parts like thin pistons unavailable). Last race I made a couple more changes based on the local fast guys car (almost lapped the field in 5min main of trophy race this weekend). My problem is cornering - turn-in feels right, mid corner it feels like it could use some more steering, and then the car tends to snap hook if I'm not careful on exit. It just doesn't feel smooth.

Secondary concern is the car doesn't land very plush to me. It's also a little squirrely in our rhythm section, single, Double, double. Landing on last double before a corner I have to be careful to let the car settle before I get on the steering. I changed to the higher front shock oil because the car was having trouble on a corner that is like a semi-wall ride thing, sort of like a 45 degree ramp corner. This made the car better there. I'm wondering if all these problems have something to do with bump-steer issues? Maybe I should change to 0 degrees toe?

I've attached my setup below. Original is Frank's setup, things changed with black pen are the changes I had to make due to not having parts/hop-ups, red changes are changes I made to try to fix the car. I will say the car was better after I made the changes in red.

Would going to #4 or #6 ackerman or changing the trail settings help?

Here is a link to our current layout for those who can view it on facebook. I'm running by b6.1 in stock and my 5.0 in mod, which could also be the difference lol. I'm going to put the 17.5 in the 5.0 tonight and see how I like it.

facebook.com/144348448946105/videos/677889622980169/
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Old 01-14-2020, 12:14 PM
  #1467  
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Originally Posted by bolbo1
Hi all,

Does anybody know what the outside diameter and thicknesses are for the TLR236010 M3 Aluminium Washer Set ?
Looking at the 22 5.0 user manual it looks like it uses 0.5, 1 & 2mm thick ball stud washers, so i assume that is whats also in this bag ?
Hoping these are 7.5mm OD as on my 22 3.0

Thank you.
I believe I have a set that I used for a different car. Iíll try and remember to check when I get home.

Last edited by xenon55; 01-14-2020 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 01-15-2020, 04:08 AM
  #1468  
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Looking for some help identifying which version I got. I got a 5.0 in a trade and I am not sure which version it is, it appears to have some of the alum from the elite but not all and I believe it has a ball diff not a gear I need to take it apart to find out or is there a way to tell without going that far into it. Would just like to know which version it is so I can DL the proper manual, and have some sort of an idea on parts to order if needed.
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Old 01-15-2020, 05:08 AM
  #1469  
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
Looking for some help identifying which version I got. I got a 5.0 in a trade and I am not sure which version it is, it appears to have some of the alum from the elite but not all and I believe it has a ball diff not a gear I need to take it apart to find out or is there a way to tell without going that far into it. Would just like to know which version it is so I can DL the proper manual, and have some sort of an idea on parts to order if needed.
Without taking the diff out see if it has the adjustment screw in the outdrives. If it has the adjustment screw its a ball diff if not it's a gear diff
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Old 01-15-2020, 06:24 AM
  #1470  
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Originally Posted by bonzo915
Without taking the diff out see if it has the adjustment screw in the outdrives. If it has the adjustment screw its a ball diff if not it's a gear diff
Right I remembered I could do it that way after I posted it. If it has a gear diff it's a AC correct, and all other versions have the ball. so if it does have a ball how can I tell what it is of the other 3 versions. or part wise does it really matter if I needed to replace something, or buy spar parts.
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