3-2 has 2 deg of anti swat, 3-3 has 3. Most run the 3-2 block

I will give it a go tonight. Thanks for quick reply I appreciate it.

Good luck...PanicRev started out to do the pin mod on his own. (Just talked to him on the phone) but was UNABLE to drill through the top-shaft. He took it to someone with a drill press who informed him that the consistancy of parts made in Thailand is such that parts made within a single batch could wind up being made of different materials. The shaft that PanicRev had was hard enough that he was told NOBODY would be drilling through it with a hand drill.

He was using a BRAND NEW titanium bit by the way and wound up buggering up the shaft and slipper pretty well before giving up and taking it to someone with a drill press. Don't think he broke any bits, but did scar up the shaft/slipper. As such, he said he won't be posting any pics! lol

If/when I do the mod I'll be taking it to my cousin's house to use his drill press.

His idea however (I think) was a GREAT one! Bought a package of 2 2mm titanium bits for a couple bucks from the local hardware store, used the bit to drill through the shaft/slipper and then cut the bit to use it as the pin! GENIOUS!!

Thanks pvalenti for sharing this info. I just got a pm from another guy who did the mod without taking the shaft out of the truck. He drilled (very slowly and very carefully) with the shaft installed with great success.
I guess it'll be hit and miss with what shaft I have.

Bought the slipper hardware kit last night, while at the track. I needed the thrust washer mainly.

I noticed that the slipper spring in the kit was quite a bit taller than my original. The new spring was at least 3/16 maybe 1/4 taller, uninstalled.

If some of you guys are still slipping the stock slipper w/ the OG spring and using washers to crutch it, you might try a new spring, instead.

I replaced my diff cases a week or so ago, I noticed a bad sound, coming from the rear I think, when finishing a corner on power. A not nice clicking type sound.

When I did the diffs, I only replaced the cases and shims, the OG gears are still in there.

I pulled the diff apart and noticed that the part of the sun gear closest to the OD was wearing unevenly. I guess it must be skipping when under a heavy load.

My shims, under the sun gear, had coned up pretty bad, from the wobbly outdrive pin. I think that caused the sun gear and planet gear mesh to tighten, in time wearing it too much.

When I pulled the shims and put new ones in, It must of opened the mesh up enough cause the skipping.

Ran the truck last night, w/ the new rebars, got back some of that loving feeling for sure. Got my lap I lost back.

Running a 4.5 550 and it's thrown my rear suspension out of whack. I was able to remove all dead weight, when switching from 1410 to 550.

The saddle packs weren't good for me, I think it was because I was running the 1410, if I had the 550/rx8 in there it would probably be better.

I was able to get through mine w/ a hand drill and a vise. I must have got and relatively soft one. I did drill a pilot hole. The aluminun part is soft, if it won't go through the shaft pretty easily, then stop and take it somewhere.

It ain't got to be pretty, it's hidden..... Just remember to loosen your slipper way up, if you don't your idler gear will most likely be toasted.

I don't know of any kit that doesn't need to be messed with. The Jammin was pretty good once you messed with it but my initial run with my SC10 4x4 was much better feeling than the totally dialed Jammin. I love the SC10 4x4 more.

I hear ya. I'm a relative noob. Been doing this for about a year now. After all the stuff the Jammin needed, I thought something purpose built and the right 1/10 size would be good to go.

I was hoping for something that would be easy...cause i'm lazy...

I was wondering why all the saddle pack conversions people are making go across the chassis instead of the other way? It looks like they would fit better the other way. Are people trying to keep the weight closer to the center of the chassis?
Paul...........

ok ths 3-2 has bein put on now

damm this truck looks great i love putting it togther

I run my cells upfront, across the front of the chassis.

My track is super sloppy, and I thank having more weight on the sides.

Thanks..........I think I am going to mount them the same way. This way I can also move the cells back if needed just by making 4 more mounting holes.

Thanks for the help.

Question for Chris Jarosz or one of the other AE guys. The Maifield/Cav setup shows the Associated "multi-plate prototype slipper". Were they running the HD pads, or were they running a prototype pad also?

Guys, do you know if JConcepts or DE Racing make any white, spoke-based wheels that work with our truck?

I really hate Trinidads with passion, and I'm sick of seeing the stock ones.

I'm looking for some like the JConcepts Rulux or the JConcepts Hazard.


If there's not viable option... How would the matte black Hazards match a white/electric blue (with white coat after it) theme?

Will post pics later


Thanks!