Make sure you have enough spacers on the shocks so the CVA shaft is not contacting the outdrive in full compression.

Keith.

What?


Been running a 1410 in 48p for 4 months now and the spur still looks like new

+1. Yeah, I've not had any issues with my original 48 pitch spur at all. I just posted what gearing I used as a reference for that combo. He can convert it and run 32 pitch if he prefers.

Roger that! I did that even before I soldered up the esc. Credit goes to the members here for pointing the issue out so I could address it before becomming a problem with my truck.

I kept the stock 2mm rubber spacer for some impact cushion than added 4mm of solid spacers for 6mm total.

I first tried fuel tubing but it flexed too much for me and would have required over 9mm to keep from over stressing the outdrives. I didn't want to limit uptravel any more than I had too.

Ditto.

I used semi-rigid Cristallo tube, 5mm of it. Works perfectly, even though my diff bushings are already damaged.

+1 I move my shocks up and down quite a bit before step 8 to try and "warm up" the oil so that the oil is in a similar state it would be in under real conditions. I think this helps blow outs as well.

I've run my truck on a bmx track and had some nasty landings (mostly trying to hit the double-double section at full speed) and haven't had any issues with blow outs or leaks.

The brace is a good fix, but I think I would rather have Al gearboxes front and back, then a Carbon Fiber belt guard that protects the belt and locks the two gearboxes together real tight. This would give you better cooling as well as the keeping the flex to a minimum, and leaves more open space get the battery in and out and swap parts around and what not.

yes in a perfect world ...but i think if AE ever was to do anything like that this truck would cost way more money and drive most buyers away

Ty Tessman - 2011 Battle at the Beach

thnx rick!

+100 I striped out to many of the 48 pitch. I now run a 32 pitch with no worrys Im running the 1410 in mine

I have read about the last 100 pages or so on pinning the top shaft and the chassis brace starting somewhere in the 560 range. I have read the pinning posts and instructions from 1Fastpede and seen the pics from Vegatron75 and all the various post from CraigMBA, Coyoteslash, just everyone. I have made my own chassis brace using all your help. Thanks all. I have been running the MTK clutch baskets version 1 (was my first upgrade. I bought this when Mac first posted this "wonder part") It helps tons but just need more.
***BTW...Mac the Knife's clutch basket kicks a$$. Props to him for introducing it and shame on those copycats trying to profit on his ingenuity.***
Anyway I am now ready to jump into the pinned world and hopefully get a renewed love of my SC10 4x4. Tired of seeing Losi's sky over me in the triples as I double/single. Then leave me eating clay coming out of corners. I have some questions:
How hard (hardened material wise) is the top shaft to drill thru? I don't have a press and will using a vise and be holding a steady hand. Will I be breaking bits or does it drill fairly easily? Love RCTECH for all the help I find here. I don't post very often so sorry for the long winded post.

I'm eager to prey on unsuspecting Losi's.

i got my kit today finaly and after bilding for 3,5 hours i got to the shock part i the manual its soo much fun to bild it



just a noob question again what is the differen betwin the 3-3 and the 3-2 blocks on the rear?????

You should not break any bits.
Just make sure your using the correct size bit and that it is sharp.
Also drill slow.. there is no need for full throttle on the drill that just heats up and dulls the bit