I also run electric 1/8 & I use the castle 2200 motor & it's sensorless & I used to believe that it didn't make a big difference...until I started running on a track with less grip, then I noticed that a sensored motor is easier to control under those conditions...especially when your in the a main & your battling for position. So where I race at I'm lucky that it's a high bite track & that sensorless motors will be just as good as a sensored motor.

I hear that. For sure.
---------


...$%^& these FT ALUMINUM BALLS. God damn soft metals and I have to get that thing into the Eye? ....

Edit: God dammit. I already scuffed one up. .................................................. .

I placed them down on a piece of scrap aluminum and another piece on top and used my weight to get them on. I originally tried pliers but they got dinged up pretty bad.

I set them on pair of vice grips and took a small hammer to the bitches.

Eff'd up one of them. I'll try to forget about it when I look at the eyelets. =(

So. all 4 FT shocks together. 1 rubs spring on the shock body. Anyone got an idea? Only one.

Edit: NO, I am not grinding the edges of the Hex.

Oh my dear god no...

I had no idea the damn kit didn't have Shock Bushings in it...

I hate life so much right now. I should have looked at the image of the part number just a "little" bit better...

Can someone point me toward the replacment O-rings being used for the diffs. I know it was posted several pages ago but this thread moves so fast I cant find it now......Should have made a note then

Yes, I searched.

Your kit doesnt have the shock bushings? You can use fuel line instead if your in a pinch.

I had some weird issue with some new shock cartridges, neither one would thread properly into the shock body, while the original one goes in perfectly. Anyone else experience this?

I had the same experience with new shock cartridges...I reused my stock cartridges with no problem.

Several.

I tore up one thread. (thankfully it's plastic on metal)

I used a spare and the other's I fought on.

Reason I don't use the old bushings is because they're on my Slash 4x4. What a treat it is to drive with those shocks. Old and non-FT aside.

CALL AE tech support on Monday, they will make it right. If you want to go racing between now and then...get good at using a thread file maybe?

yikes, on a smaller track, that pro4 4600kv is way to much, having to turn the epa down drastically, even at 80% still a bit to much, plan on trying it out tomorrow at 75%.

Okay. My truck is at 100% once again. Time to get back to testing the pinned style.

I rookied my Body. It's on at an angle and the tire is rubbing. What a bad luck rebuild this was. Shocks not threading, Bushings needed, Body mounted herp derp, and spilled Soda into my Mouse moving my toolbag. AHHHHH.

Of course I have to work tomorrow, but maybe if it doesn't rain i'll get some time in after work. Going to use some suggestions you guys gave me earlier before the break and get this baby running good. Ft shocks and all. =D

So Coyote... what do I 'need to know' about the FT shock kits? I'm thinking about upgrading to these but it sounds like they just don't go together very well?

Also what exactly do you mean by 'FT aluminum balls'? I can't think where there are ANY balls in this truck (excepting motor power that is)?

im just sitting here lokking tru the manual on this site:
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...4x4_manual.pdf

and on page 9 whit assambel the diffs it sayfront diff 20000 rear diff 5000 ????
is that what the diffs come whit in the kit??