I finally decided to pull the trigger on this truck. It was down to between this and the losi. Even though the AE was 30 bucks less having to buy the sway bars made up for it so it was pretty much a wash.

I think the final thing that pushed me to the sc was that the AE is lighter and has quicker/more steering, two attributes I felt were much easier adjust out than to try to add back in. I.e. it's hard to drop 10oz of weight vs. adding some stick on lead or adding some custom metal skids.

Also even though the AE is harder to work on, it does look easy to swap out whole subsections, so I figure if I got real serious about racing this thing (i'm currently a noob) I would just buy a second kit an have pre-built front and rear sections ready to go.

Anyway here is the list of parts I ordered. I took advantage of Amain's free shipping and $75 off deal they have going on right now. I also picked up some red & black paint for the body, going to do all racing red with a black stripe down hood roof and bed, and back it all with black.

The LHS I went to for the paint didn't have anything but 30k diff oil in stock so I need to pick some up elsewhere, I'm thinking of doing 5k front and rear for starters (so i only have to buy one bottle) I would just leave it stock but I know they don't come filled all the way and don't think I'll end up running 3k at all.

1 x Team Associated SC10 4x4 1/10 Scale Electric 4WD Short Course Race Truck Kit (ASC90004) = $269.99
1 x Savox SC-1256TG Standard Digital "High Torque" Titanium Gear Servo (SAV-SC-1256TG) = $79.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Rear Swaybar Set (ASC91124) = $17.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Front Swaybar Set (ASC91123) = $16.99
1 x Team Associated 13mm Shock Bladder & Seal Set (4) (ASC91063) = $5.49
1 x Spektrum Voltage Protector (SPM1600) = $4.99
1 x ProTek R/C 2S "Supreme Power" Li-Poly 35C Hard Case Battery Pack (7.4V/5000mAh) (ROAR Approved) (PTK-LPH-5000-2S35-P) = $59.99
1 x Spektrum SR300 3 Channel DSM Sport Surface Receiver (SPMSR300) = $49.99
1 x Novak Havoc Pro SC Brushless ESC/Ballistic 550 Motor Combo (4.5T) (SC10 4x4) (NOV3119) = $239.99
1 x Team Associated 32P Spur Gear (60T) (ASC91095) = $3.69
1 x Team Associated 5mm Bore 32P Pinion Gear (13T) (ASC91164) = $9.25
1 x ProTek R/C 4.0mm "Super Bullet" Solid Gold Connectors (4 Male) (PTK-5035) = $4.49
1 x Western Robotics 6" Banana Plug (Black/Red) (2) (WRL-BNPLUG) = $1.89
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Green Slime (ASC1105) = $2.29
1 x Team Associated Factory Team 30mm Ti-Nitride Shock Shaft Set (2) (ASC91113) = $10.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team 26mm Ti-Nitride Front Shock Shaft Set (2) (ASC91112) = $10.99

dont forget the ft aluminum hex hubs..

SERIOUSLY...you ran the truck w/o checking the diff and shock fluids? You MUST not have read all the posts from people who got theirs with the shocks not filled or piston screws not tightened...or the diffs not filled properly or (some) not at all?

Dude...you really DO need to do at least a LITTLE set-up before you toss it on the track and decide it's not for you. No offense intended...but if you race 1/8 buggies then you should know that you need to check everything that is 'pre-built' to make sure it's done perfectly.

My shocks were cool...but I wanted to make sure to mimic a set-up that I had right out of the gate. I had seen a few of them run before I got mine. So I already knew I wanted to shim the inner camber links, shorten shock travel, and put the sway bars on there.

You never really told us (unless I missed it somewhere...easy to do here) what other than the stock kit you have on your truck. The sway bars make a HUGE difference, so does shimming the inner camber link (ball stud on the shock towers) AND shortening the shock travel. LOTS of things could account for the sketchy way you describe your truck handling. I think that those 550 4.5 tekins are just way too torq'ie unless you dial them down quite a bit. Try rolling back the timing and gearing up a few teeth and if it's still lightning fast try setting your EPA on throttle back a bit to limit full power some.

I'm using -30 to -35 steering expo, that helped tame down the steering quite a bit. Also going with 30k in the front diff made it a lot easier to drive. I don't know what tires that you use that I could compare to what we use here in the Midwest (Blue Springs, MO)...but I have found that using a good traction tire for the track conditions in the REAR and one not quite so good on the FRONT helps balance the truck out and makes it drive a lot smoother for me.

Most people think there's a bit too much traction in the front of this truck, at least that's what I'm gathering from those that I've talked to, and the posts that I've read online.

Everybody has an opinion, and everybody has their own driving style...maybe you are suited more to the LOSI? Nothing wrong with that...just because a bunch of us like the AE doesn't mean that it's the ONLY way to go. I would say keep trying tweaks on the truck until you either LOVE it or can't stand it anymore. Then if you still want to SELL it...send me a PM!

Put a setup on the truck take the shocks apart and make sure the piston screw is tight there are plenty of setups on line

if you decide to sell and go to the losi i hope you are ready because those losi trucks get sloppy quick

As a long time Losi 1/8 scale buggy and truggy driver they start out sloppy and go down from there . I have run my sc10 4x4 for a whole season and it is tighter then my son's brand new scte . That being said the Losi's work good even with the slop .

I'm trying to decide if I want to run this cheap 5A 6V turnigy BEC, or just use the built-in BEC in the Novak Havoc Pro. I'm using the Savox SC-1256TG. I think 3A will be fine, but the stall current is 5A, so does that mean the servo could pull 5A and smoke my expensive ESC?

I've also heard that turnigy BEC is really only good for 3A continuous and 5A bust as well so it may not save me much anyway.

since i'm sticking to 2S lipo, connecting the Rx directly sounds like a good idea, but I'm guessing that I can only do that with a high voltage servo, or with a reducer correct?

After checking the timing I had it set halfway so I have now set it all the way down to zero. Hopefully this and dropping 2 teeth of the pinion will help. Apparently Tekin states if the motor hits 180*F after a 8-10 main, it is not a problem at all. I have heard these motors do run hot from a lot of people. If I can get my esc and motor under 170*F I will be happy.

Terry

who has got em and how have they held up so far .

update on the rpm arms please

Edit: Crap. I misread the post, Hope someone can answer your question, Miz.

Urge... to... kill.... rising...




...... They're great.

Finally ran a few packs through my truck after pinning the front slipper and found a couple negatives first is decreased run time and second is increased tire wear. I attribute both to hauling a$$ and cutting serious time off my laps.

This. All.... KINDS of this.

Lol!

Lol! Love the Homer quote!

What happens if I forgot to disconnect the power wire from the esc while having a bec installed. I was to excited to drive it and forgot to pull the red wire out. I am starting to think that is why my esc jumped to 200*F+ in just minutes. It still works but I can't test it till the morning.
Someone please tell me it will be ok and that you have done it before. Shame on me.

Terry