5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-18-2011 | 09:31 PM
#8986
What happens if I forgot to disconnect the power wire from the esc while having a bec installed. I was to excited to drive it and forgot to pull the red wire out. I am starting to think that is why my esc jumped to 200*F+ in just minutes. It still works but I can't test it till the morning.
Someone please tell me it will be ok and that you have done it before. Shame on me.
Terry
Someone please tell me it will be ok and that you have done it before. Shame on me.
Terry
If it arms, and runs, and the throttles smooth, etc. It's fine. You got lucky.
10-19-2011 | 02:24 AM
#8989
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 201
From: denmark
I finally decided to pull the trigger on this truck. It was down to between this and the losi. Even though the AE was 30 bucks less having to buy the sway bars made up for it so it was pretty much a wash.
I think the final thing that pushed me to the sc was that the AE is lighter and has quicker/more steering, two attributes I felt were much easier adjust out than to try to add back in. I.e. it's hard to drop 10oz of weight vs. adding some stick on lead or adding some custom metal skids.
Also even though the AE is harder to work on, it does look easy to swap out whole subsections, so I figure if I got real serious about racing this thing (i'm currently a noob) I would just buy a second kit an have pre-built front and rear sections ready to go.
Anyway here is the list of parts I ordered. I took advantage of Amain's free shipping and $75 off deal they have going on right now. I also picked up some red & black paint for the body, going to do all racing red with a black stripe down hood roof and bed, and back it all with black.
The LHS I went to for the paint didn't have anything but 30k diff oil in stock so I need to pick some up elsewhere, I'm thinking of doing 5k front and rear for starters (so i only have to buy one bottle) I would just leave it stock but I know they don't come filled all the way and don't think I'll end up running 3k at all.
1 x Team Associated SC10 4x4 1/10 Scale Electric 4WD Short Course Race Truck Kit (ASC90004) = $269.99
1 x Savox SC-1256TG Standard Digital "High Torque" Titanium Gear Servo (SAV-SC-1256TG) = $79.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Rear Swaybar Set (ASC91124) = $17.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Front Swaybar Set (ASC91123) = $16.99
1 x Team Associated 13mm Shock Bladder & Seal Set (4) (ASC91063) = $5.49
1 x Spektrum Voltage Protector (SPM1600) = $4.99
1 x ProTek R/C 2S "Supreme Power" Li-Poly 35C Hard Case Battery Pack (7.4V/5000mAh) (ROAR Approved) (PTK-LPH-5000-2S35-P) = $59.99
1 x Spektrum SR300 3 Channel DSM Sport Surface Receiver (SPMSR300) = $49.99
1 x Novak Havoc Pro SC Brushless ESC/Ballistic 550 Motor Combo (4.5T) (SC10 4x4) (NOV3119) = $239.99
1 x Team Associated 32P Spur Gear (60T) (ASC91095) = $3.69
1 x Team Associated 5mm Bore 32P Pinion Gear (13T) (ASC91164) = $9.25
1 x ProTek R/C 4.0mm "Super Bullet" Solid Gold Connectors (4 Male) (PTK-5035) = $4.49
1 x Western Robotics 6" Banana Plug (Black/Red) (2) (WRL-BNPLUG) = $1.89
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Green Slime (ASC1105) = $2.29
1 x Team Associated Factory Team 30mm Ti-Nitride Shock Shaft Set (2) (ASC91113) = $10.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team 26mm Ti-Nitride Front Shock Shaft Set (2) (ASC91112) = $10.99
I think the final thing that pushed me to the sc was that the AE is lighter and has quicker/more steering, two attributes I felt were much easier adjust out than to try to add back in. I.e. it's hard to drop 10oz of weight vs. adding some stick on lead or adding some custom metal skids.
Also even though the AE is harder to work on, it does look easy to swap out whole subsections, so I figure if I got real serious about racing this thing (i'm currently a noob) I would just buy a second kit an have pre-built front and rear sections ready to go.
Anyway here is the list of parts I ordered. I took advantage of Amain's free shipping and $75 off deal they have going on right now. I also picked up some red & black paint for the body, going to do all racing red with a black stripe down hood roof and bed, and back it all with black.
The LHS I went to for the paint didn't have anything but 30k diff oil in stock so I need to pick some up elsewhere, I'm thinking of doing 5k front and rear for starters (so i only have to buy one bottle) I would just leave it stock but I know they don't come filled all the way and don't think I'll end up running 3k at all.
1 x Team Associated SC10 4x4 1/10 Scale Electric 4WD Short Course Race Truck Kit (ASC90004) = $269.99
1 x Savox SC-1256TG Standard Digital "High Torque" Titanium Gear Servo (SAV-SC-1256TG) = $79.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Rear Swaybar Set (ASC91124) = $17.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Front Swaybar Set (ASC91123) = $16.99
1 x Team Associated 13mm Shock Bladder & Seal Set (4) (ASC91063) = $5.49
1 x Spektrum Voltage Protector (SPM1600) = $4.99
1 x ProTek R/C 2S "Supreme Power" Li-Poly 35C Hard Case Battery Pack (7.4V/5000mAh) (ROAR Approved) (PTK-LPH-5000-2S35-P) = $59.99
1 x Spektrum SR300 3 Channel DSM Sport Surface Receiver (SPMSR300) = $49.99
1 x Novak Havoc Pro SC Brushless ESC/Ballistic 550 Motor Combo (4.5T) (SC10 4x4) (NOV3119) = $239.99
1 x Team Associated 32P Spur Gear (60T) (ASC91095) = $3.69
1 x Team Associated 5mm Bore 32P Pinion Gear (13T) (ASC91164) = $9.25
1 x ProTek R/C 4.0mm "Super Bullet" Solid Gold Connectors (4 Male) (PTK-5035) = $4.49
1 x Western Robotics 6" Banana Plug (Black/Red) (2) (WRL-BNPLUG) = $1.89
1 x Team Associated Factory Team Green Slime (ASC1105) = $2.29
1 x Team Associated Factory Team 30mm Ti-Nitride Shock Shaft Set (2) (ASC91113) = $10.99
1 x Team Associated Factory Team 26mm Ti-Nitride Front Shock Shaft Set (2) (ASC91112) = $10.99
damm lucky guys i got to ad 50% on top off this prices for tax here in denmark + 100-200 us$ in shipping
just not fairi order the truck + 2 pinion gears+ ft slipperpad + 3MM SHOCK BLADDER/SEAL + swaybar front and rear. price here in denmark = 611 us$
Last edited by the_freak; 10-19-2011 at 02:37 AM.
10-19-2011 | 04:41 AM
#8990
Tech Addict
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 521
10-19-2011 | 05:44 AM
#8991
I'm trying to decide if I want to run this cheap 5A 6V turnigy BEC, or just use the built-in BEC in the Novak Havoc Pro. I'm using the Savox SC-1256TG. I think 3A will be fine, but the stall current is 5A, so does that mean the servo could pull 5A and smoke my expensive ESC?
I've also heard that turnigy BEC is really only good for 3A continuous and 5A bust as well so it may not save me much anyway.
since i'm sticking to 2S lipo, connecting the Rx directly sounds like a good idea, but I'm guessing that I can only do that with a high voltage servo, or with a reducer correct?
I've also heard that turnigy BEC is really only good for 3A continuous and 5A bust as well so it may not save me much anyway.
since i'm sticking to 2S lipo, connecting the Rx directly sounds like a good idea, but I'm guessing that I can only do that with a high voltage servo, or with a reducer correct?
Oh, and connecting the RX directly, you need to make sure your RX can handle 8.4v (full lipo charge) and you need to make sure your transponder, and anything else can handle it too. If you connect the Servo power directly, then you only need to worry about the servo handling 8.4v.
I'd rather see you spend the money on a proper BEC than buy a $100 servo just so that you can hook the power leads directly to the battery...I sold my HV savox to a buddy so that he could put it in his SC104x4.... Sure, it is a little quicker, but after driving his truck and my truck, with similar setups, I can't feel a difference. The 1256 keeps you connected to the truck nicely.
10-19-2011 | 05:54 AM
#8992
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,104
From: Texas
Their clutch basket looks no different than the mtk other than the vented plate. A lot of you were speculating many more "layers" a few pages back, hence the pic request. I will just keep playing with my truck as is. Granted, it takes a lot of tuning to be manageable but it is a fun truck to mess around with and my 8yo has taken a shine to it. Definitely not kick ass like my 8.2 though.
Last edited by bohdi; 10-19-2011 at 08:01 AM.
10-19-2011 | 06:08 AM
#8994
SUPPORT MTF he is the one that got us out of a bind......
Mac, hit me up,i have the cure for this but I can't do lathe work! We can do a collaboration!
10-19-2011 | 06:15 AM
#8995
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
And the v2 clutch basket is way lighter to boot and I don't have to grind out my gear cover its so low profile.
10-19-2011 | 06:55 AM
#8996
10-19-2011 | 06:58 AM
#8997
If you need slipper clutch basket buy the orginal design...
What a bunch of crap! I wouldn't buy anything from them or anyone else that blatantly copies ideas or designs. I'm sorry to see that Mac, I'm sure its only a matter of time before it happens to me.....
SUPPORT MTF he is the one that got us out of a bind......
Mac, hit me up,i have the cure for this but I can't do lathe work! We can do a collaboration!
SUPPORT MTF he is the one that got us out of a bind......
Mac, hit me up,i have the cure for this but I can't do lathe work! We can do a collaboration!
10-19-2011 | 07:14 AM
#8998
Anyone else selling a chassis brace?
So, what do people considering now a good starting setup?
tony montana: Yeah, the out of the box stock setups that AE uses, at least what I experienced with the B4, T4 aren't very good. I think i didn't really like any of the b4 setups till the worlds one came out.
So, what do people considering now a good starting setup?
tony montana: Yeah, the out of the box stock setups that AE uses, at least what I experienced with the B4, T4 aren't very good. I think i didn't really like any of the b4 setups till the worlds one came out.
