5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-20-2011 | 11:14 PM
#9136
Moving on.
Edit: Oh, and btw, it's not Caturday. Fail.
10-20-2011 | 11:44 PM
#9137
On a packed track, meh, maybe not.
10-21-2011 | 04:25 AM
#9138
Craig,
A couple questions regarding your brace.
The rod ends and their connection to the carbon rod:
Are they just inserted not threaded into the carbon rod?
This provides stiffness under compresion with the rodends bottomed out against the carbon rod but in the event of expansion would telescope?
A couple questions regarding your brace.
The rod ends and their connection to the carbon rod:
Are they just inserted not threaded into the carbon rod?
This provides stiffness under compresion with the rodends bottomed out against the carbon rod but in the event of expansion would telescope?
10-21-2011 | 05:33 AM
#9139
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,905
From: SOMEWHERE LUVIN ME SOME RC
back in the day All companies used to spend years figuring out chassis development before release. and now its done on a computer and then released. At least AE doesn't release it and forget about it. they also strive to make it better.
At least they came out with a new design. they could have just made it a rc8be replica but they didn't. so all the other truck companies i feel took the Safe/easy route with all work already done. while associated took the harder more innovated route which in the end will end up shining. but its a whole new chassis design and will require some tweaking and learning. Just like every car/truck on the market.
I have some local losi's that are faster than me (mostly because they are a better driver not because of brand). But they replace bent chassis's, sloppy worn out axles and ballstuds and diffs and 2s lipo's failing from power hungry 1/8th scale set-ups and etc.. every weekend its something. So I'll let them be a little faster because they are paying for it. while I'm having just as much fun with more dough in my wallet. because besides some bent a arms that still work great, this truck is ridiculously reliable.
Off topic but me and my buddy use 5000mah lipos, my buddies losi uses 4800mah in a 6 minute race and i use 2000...
At least they came out with a new design. they could have just made it a rc8be replica but they didn't. so all the other truck companies i feel took the Safe/easy route with all work already done. while associated took the harder more innovated route which in the end will end up shining. but its a whole new chassis design and will require some tweaking and learning. Just like every car/truck on the market.
I have some local losi's that are faster than me (mostly because they are a better driver not because of brand). But they replace bent chassis's, sloppy worn out axles and ballstuds and diffs and 2s lipo's failing from power hungry 1/8th scale set-ups and etc.. every weekend its something. So I'll let them be a little faster because they are paying for it. while I'm having just as much fun with more dough in my wallet. because besides some bent a arms that still work great, this truck is ridiculously reliable.
Off topic but me and my buddy use 5000mah lipos, my buddies losi uses 4800mah in a 6 minute race and i use 2000...
10-21-2011 | 06:39 AM
#9140
If you want the best shocks in the world.
Polish the sides of the pistons so they are shiny smooth.
and drill the hole in the cap seal out by one size. or using a body reamer.
10-21-2011 | 06:48 AM
#9141
What are you using to 'polish the pistons'?
Not arguing...just trying to understand. Hopefully it comes across the right way.
10-21-2011 | 06:51 AM
#9142
I polish using a polishing wheel and some jewelry polish/ rouge; you could use a dremel with the proper tip as well.
Don't drill out the bleeder hole. I'm speaking of the cartridge cap(black) on the bottom of the shock.
10-21-2011 | 07:00 AM
#9143
Are you using the Trackstar O-rings as well? If so do you go with a single (bottom only) o-ring or are you using both o-rings? I guess either way (stock or upgraded o-rings) are you using both or one?
10-21-2011 | 07:06 AM
#9145
i didnt lose turn in, well i did before i went to a lighter front dif fluid, it was turn exit that was giving me issues. during the races last week the clicker nut came loose and i couldnt drive the truck. i didnt realize what happened until warmups for the next qual. i just remember not being able to put the truck where i wanted, and feeling unstable. didnt like the way it jumped as the nose would go up and catch air! today i will actually test with laptimes and let ya know what the results are!
10-21-2011 | 07:07 AM
#9146
i chase cats away from the front of my house with my sc10 4x4, lol, but not to far :P
Craig, I noticed you're running saddle packs, I also know Mantis runs saddles as well, with the straight packs you're able to run that battery bar which pretty much seems to act as a chassis stiffner, how much flex were you getting before the bar? Is there really much of a change in behavior of the truck from saddle packs to a straight pack?
Craig, I noticed you're running saddle packs, I also know Mantis runs saddles as well, with the straight packs you're able to run that battery bar which pretty much seems to act as a chassis stiffner, how much flex were you getting before the bar? Is there really much of a change in behavior of the truck from saddle packs to a straight pack?
10-21-2011 | 07:08 AM
#9147
Ahh...that makes more sense. What color jewelers rouge? RED? I've got a polish wheel for my dremel and I know that my LHS (and probably any hardware store) has dremel stuff that includes red jewelers rouge. Don't know if I've seen the other types or not. But I think RED is the mild abrasive anyway...which I would assume is the right stuff.
Are you using the Trackstar O-rings as well? If so do you go with a single (bottom only) o-ring or are you using both o-rings? I guess either way (stock or upgraded o-rings) are you using both or one?
Are you using the Trackstar O-rings as well? If so do you go with a single (bottom only) o-ring or are you using both o-rings? I guess either way (stock or upgraded o-rings) are you using both or one?
I used red rouge. just don't hold dremel on piston too long it will eat away plastic. I suggest puting dremel in a vice and holding piston on shaft for polishing. you don't want to remove material just polish it up. once you start you'll notice the imperfections as the rouge gets stuck to it.
10-21-2011 | 07:11 AM
#9149
10-21-2011 | 07:12 AM
#9150