IMO you assume wrong. If you mark the slipper with a sharpie (backplate, spur, and frontplate), then go run it, you can tell for sure if it slips.

If it does, pin the front slipper pad to the rear trans shaft. You may discover that you like to use the slipper since you can actually use it.

Sorry about that, your line of questioning did rub me the wrong way.

IRL I have a live and direct personality, am very busy in my straight job (I farm for a living), am very focused and detail oriented, value brevity over style, and and have a tendency to suffer fools not at all. If my response was overly aggressive, I sincerely apologize for offending you as it was not my intention.

Rest assured it was not because I was trying to make a personal attack on you. If I did I would have just come out and done it.

And what that will do is reunbalance the torque distribution. Wheelies will be back, and it'll loop off power.

I did mine this evening between stirring it up here, checking on the almond harvest, and making a bunch of phone calls. One of the fringe benefits of my job is I have access to a mill. The hardest part was to figure out how to chuck up the shaft in the mill while I was drilling it.



Mine is a little different, I reinstalled the whole thrust bearing so the back plate lies against it. The pin is retained inside the plastic belt cog, and the whole thing nests in with the back slipper plate.

I screwed up and drilled the 3/32 roll pin hole 7/64. It's a little tricky reassembling it, but it has minimal lash and doesn't seem like it's going to be a problem. I tested it on the street (it was too dark for me to go run at my practice track), and the slipper now has a ton more adjustment. It no longer wheelies, it just rips away. It also is way less pitch sensitive under power and under braking. Before if you were in a steady state turn and you started to add power it would get loose, getting off the power would make it tighten up. Now it stays much more neutral as you add or take off power.

In order to remove the transmission, I had to take the rear arms off so I took the opportunity to check them for straightness. They were slightly warped where you could visibly see it (less than the front) but it was still enough to cause them to seize against the hinge pins. I suggest removing the rear skid plate and the antisquat block and checking the hinge pins for freeness once a race day. If they start to get the slightest bit bound up, ditch the arms ASAP. In retrospect, mine did it the first day. They started squeeking, so I lubed them with some black grease and thought I fixed it. I think that was wrong.

Now I gotta go put my 1/10 1c oval car back together so I can go race on caps this weekend.

Thanks for the apology..............
I was thinking that if you pin the front slipper like you guys are doing, and you want to run the 19 front pulley wouldn't it cause quite a bit of belt abuse? Overdrive on the front end is a nice option to play with..............

Its the basket. and i'm currently using ht pads in all 3 spots.

I can see what pinning the front slipper disk does and the results seem reasonable. Pinning the front ensures that the rear slips on power. It seems that this would not be the best solution for all around function. Breaking would be full front and rear. As was said it is like a locked center diff. with slipper action.

The Clutch basket design does change the relationship between front and rear much like a center diff. The difference in friction front to rear is related to the slipper pad material and the surface area. It would be like a heavy weight oil in a center diff.

I was planning to get the Garolite pads and mix them with the stock AE pads. If I want more front grip under power then I would place the garolite on the inner disk and vary the outer disk between the regular and HT pads to manage the rear. I don't think I want to pin the front.

Pinning the shaft doesn't lock anything. its all still slipper controlled. so the front and rear slip on power but now its even slip. the slipper is our center diff. and if its slipping its not locked. once pinned adjusting the slipper nut is now like changing center diff fluid. and now the car can be tuned better through the front and rear diff oils. now that the power is evenly distributed to front/rear. the great thing about this mod is all you have to do is remove the pin and put back together and its works like before. and I still recommend the basket wether you are pinned or not. it just makes it a better more controlled slipper.

+1 that is the exact symptoms i was having all weekend, very nervous to drive hard. i also discovered my rear belt pulley guide had a siezed bearing and my servo arm was coming loose, none of that helped my problems either.....

I like the feel of a nearly locked setup (front to rear like pinning the inner slipper plate to the shaft), but know that each end has a peak torque that I want the slipper to give at to save the drivetrain. Using the clutch basket I've tried different pad combos so that the front and rear pads would show equal wear after a pack or two and then promptly tightened down the nut so that it only slips when the integrity of the drivetrain depends on it. After all of that was completed I now run an hd pad on the inner plate for the front, 2 standard pads in the basket for the rear, the nut a good 3mm from the end of the shaft (1-2mm from bottomed out), and I can go weeks without messing with the combo as there isn't enough slipping going on to glaze the pads.

Pinning the shaft is like locking a center diff in that the front and rear cannot rotate independent of each other. He said it's like locking it, but with a slipper. Pinning the shaft means we have no 'center diff' equivalent.

+1. Looks like pinning the slipper makes the drivetrain function very much like the B44 drivetrain, where the pinned slipper basically becomes a center slipper for the front and rear. And my B44 is one of the best handling, stable under braking vehicles I've ever driven. Glad I bought that drill press adapter for my Dremel a few years back.

i pinned mine last night and i also ordered the RPM arms. so hopefully with all of these changes the beast will be right this weekend for the HARC race in Htown! Chris you gonna make it out?

Is there any picks, or further info on Ryan's winning truck at the Reedy race? Or for that matter what the "Team" was running. I see the "pin" was obviously something new, but What about battery configuration. I apologize if this was already posted.

And you have enough surface area you aren't nuking them either. Hadn't though about it as a durability upgrade...