I've blown out the front bearing and almost tore the whole motor to shreds in resulting freespin at speed. I cleaned it out and replaced the bearing with some Novak bearings. As far as the dirt, I'm not really sure. The silicone won't hurt, but it's going to get there anyway. Maybe ShoeGoo done very carefully.

Womens nylons, just put a piece over it and that should keep most of the larger stuff out of it. If you get some black ones it probably wont look that strange.

Sharing is a good thing! If your ideas continue to work well for you. Please share and post pics?
Congratulations on good race times and deveopment!

Will the ft version accept stick packs or only saddle

parts are included for both setups

Regular old electrical tape works good to tape off slot on the Pro4 motors as well. I highly suggest to remove and disassemble your motor after every race(weekend) to clean and inspect for smooth bearings, sensor board tightness, and stator winding inspection. If you don't you are asking for a motor failure and I don't know about you guys, but $140 to $160 for backup motor is out of the question for myself. I would rather hit the track knowing what I have and knowing it has all been serviced. Do not forget to loctite the screws holding the sensor board as that is one of the leading causes of failure on these motors so I have been told. Avid also has some nice ceramics for this motor to those interested. One of the most simple motors I have ever had apart for service and bearing replacement.

I'm not sure if blasted is the corect word.."didn't work for me".."gave me the wrong pistons" would be much more like it..and if I thought all your products were junk..why'd I just buy a V2 diff? and I'm getting ready to order some discs..in my opinion it's done..after all if I'm selling products for ya..what's the problem..

Would having my VTS slipper to tight cause the rear to be loose?

Tru Dat Also weather you like it or not i am sending another set of SCTE pistons with your order, do what you want to with them! I dont remember your name so mention it in the comment please.

yes, it will

If you lock the slipper so it cannot slip ?

*off power the truck will be darty entering the corner.
*on-power makes wheel spin accelerating out of turns.



adjust the VTS so 1mm to 1 1/2 mm of thread shows on top on lock nut .
Then go fast with ...

VTS slipper performs great , more traction & smoother acceleration .


Tip :
Lack of rear traction can be cause by many things .


tires
ride height
oil
piston
spring
rear toe
wheel base
slipper adjustment
radio
ESC

Tip
have someone with experience test drive your ride & help you ...

I have been racing for many years, and when it comes to 8th scale buggys and 2wd I can set them up and know what all changes to make top make the car handle asi want it...plus there is not a single sc10 4x4 in our pro 4 class.its all losi and Durango..the center did is really sounding good for the ability to tune it to track conditions as same as changing the oil in the center diff on a buggy..

Yeah, I thought the same thing too which is why I bought it. Excited to try it out.

Would even like to see Wild Cherry try it out and see what he thinks. Maybe AE will make one in the future so he can

I'd be interested in seeing pics of the o-ring mod (CraigMBA?) is doing for the Center diff.

The spur using the center diff sure has a bit of wobble to it. Suppose it really can't be prevented due to the size of the diff balls (which are a good thing).

I'm guessing that the o-ring is used between the spur and diff ring (outside the diffballs? Which would help keep the diff lube in, and the crud out as well as help keep the spur running true. Am I close?

From my lawn dart fest on the first practice day at the new track the screw holding the front skid plate on has ripped out of the chassis. Is there anyway to get it to stay in or do I have to buy a new front chassis?

It almost seems as though AE was thinking of center diff when they designed the slipper setup since the inner hub controls the front and the outer controls the rear. They have it basically setup for a center diff already just missing the diff.



Also forgot to add that after the installation of my center diff I am noticing that my motor temps have dropped about 10-20 degrees. Im guessing that my motor revs are staying down now because of the lack of the slipper(aka using only the amount of power as I need now) and the extra heat from the slipper is gone now.