SC10 4x4 Thread
I'm looking to get this and noticed in the description it mentions an Aluminum Rear Hub. I'm not running an aluminum one, I'm running the original plastic one. Can I still use this with the plastic rear hubs?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-C-Tower-Set-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-C-Tower-Set-2
ok i will try them today.. i will let you know my results this evening.. seems like my rear end is still unpredictable.. likes to dance coming into the sweeper and exiting the sweeper.. i just wish the car would be consistent and not so unpredictable! i can have a few consistent laps and when i want to push just a little more it gets all hay wire!
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 398
From: Hamburg
While changing to 11t Pinion i noticed, that my chassis-plate damages the motor-case! there's a big scratch in the chassis-plate, where the motor hits the chassis when landing and the motor case has some "optical" damage. Is that normal, or is my motor just too long? it's a tenshock with 4600kv
for the c hub tower mod? at the moment i only have 2 ballstuds in the inner hole at the moment.. when i put the c hub tower on do i have to raise the inner hole to 7mm?
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
If you do the c-hub mod and raise the outer ball stud 8 mm, you need to raise the inner by 7-8 as well to truly benefit from the mod. Otherwise you will not only have a completely different roll center than those running the mod, you will have a much higher camber gain rate which will probably make for a worse off car than just leaving the ball studs in their stock location.
If you do the c-hub mod and raise the outer ball stud 8 mm, you need to raise the inner by 7-8 as well to truly benefit from the mod. Otherwise you will not only have a completely different roll center than those running the mod, you will have a much higher camber gain rate which will probably make for a worse off car than just leaving the ball studs in their stock location.



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