Feels nothing like that Cain...


Best I can describe ...

Feels way more betta than spending the $550 to only loose to PINK again.....

Vega , PNW all the duragos tonight ....
kudos to the QUADpad VTS , it really helped me ...

Do they make an aluminum servo horn for the SC10 4X4.

Strc makes one. Trying to get my hands on one too. My lhs doesn't carry them either.

I've done that for years, coming from nitro 8th scale that was a pretty common way to do it. I just pigtail off the power connector for the esc and remove the middle wire from the esc receiver plug.

problem solved with pinion motor. stupid mistake.

i to am having problems getting the gears right hope sombody knows what we are doing wrong lol

Last nights battle !!!

1st Losi MIP
2nd Sc10 4x4
3rd Durango



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0W7ok...layer_embededd

Not the bellcrank, servo horn for your servo.

Haven't tried it myself, but I think others have said the 22 AL servo horns work.

The losi 22 aluminum servo horn offset is opposite from the SC10 4X4 servo horn.

Hi guys getting my truck set up during christmas break
I've been reading this thread from start to finish for a month now and am on page 1860 so almost caught up
So happy I missed the whole exotek clutch debate, it was no fun reading thru it.


I have installed
Exotek LCG V.2 Chassis
RC SHOX V.2 Center Diff
Castle 3800 1410 SCT ESC
Savox 1258
Spectrum DX3S with cap on receiver/ so no glitching or brown outs.
RPM arms front and rear
Sway Bars White Front, Blue Rear
Shocks 32wt front 27wt rear
Yellow springs on front, Blue Front springs on rear
Front 6mm limiter and 2 mm rubber shock ring Rear 6mm limiter with 2mm rubber shock ring 4mm under ball cup and 2mm plus shock ring up top.
12mm Aluminum Hexs
Proline Flo Tek

I am about to tear apart my front and rear diffs and rebuild and replace paper seals and diff fluid.

I will be changing diff fluid to 7000wt Front 5000wt rear for center diff. My LHS had no Team associated 7000 wt diff fluid so I purchased Losi 7000wt diff fluid. Will this be a issue? It costs $3 more than Team Associated Fluid so hope it works

I believe wild cherry posted to use 2 paper diff seals on each diff and it will eliminate leaky diffs otherwise theres the kyosho grease I believe Mantis posted using.

Can I get away with reusing my installed diff paper seal if it isn't torn or damaged and just installing one additional paper seal?



I've used search, but found nothing on these 2 specific questions.

Will the paper diff seals from a sc10 fit a sc104x4

and

I want to shim up the diff gears to eliminate outdrive wobble.
I'm not sure if I should use the .5 washer some people have been using and team associated is sending out if you call them? or the xray .3 I've read people are using?
Can someone please tell me the dimensions/part#/link/ or easy way to find the xray .3 washers that people are using because when I asked for them at the LHS nobody there had no clue they 4 different kits because one of them had to have what I needed

I don't know which one is preferable to use xray.3 or .5 washer?
Also if I use the .3 washer its one .3 washer under sun gear on each side of diff remove stock shim?
I also read somewhere one .3 shim and leave .2 stock shim on other side?

I also read that putting 2oz/3oz of weight in front and sides of servo will help truck handling even with the exotek.
I am running a regular stick pack .

Here is an indoor carpet setup that I came up with. You may find shortening the rear camber link or going to the next sway bar size even more benefit if the traction is really high. This was what I was going to try next to see if there was any more benefit, but as it sat with the setup on it, was a jaw dropper how fast it was around the tight 180 sections.

Starting with a Factory Team Kit:

FRONT:
- 7K Diff Oil
- Steering Rack back position
- 2.2mm swaybar
- Middle shock position on tower
- Outer position on a-arm
- -1 camber
- 23mm ride height
- outer camber link position on tower
- 5mm washers under ball stud
- 20T standard pulley
- Locked clicker
- Yellow Front Springs
- 30W Losi shock oil
- RC Shox 2 stage pistons
- Bladder setup, no screws in caps, zero rebound

CENTER
- RC Shox Center Diff 8 pins
- Exotek Chassis
- Inline Saddle packs

REAR
- 5K AE Diff Oil
- Medium wheelbase
- Middle position on rear hub carrier
- 2.0mm swaybar
- inner shock position on shock tower
- -1.0 Camber
- 23mm ride height
- 2.75 Toe In (or 3 if you don't have M2C toe in block)
- 2 degree anti squat
- Inner camber link position on the tower
- 7mm washer under ball stud
- 20T standard pulley
- Blue 4.3 Front springs
- RC Shox dual stage pistons
- 25W Losi shock oil, Zero Robound, no screw in shock cap, bladders


Use AE stock tires all around, sauced with stick kicks roja compound. blanco or verde may be better if this is too agressive.

You probably could use this setup as well with VTS Slipper or garodisc setup, possibly going to 10K front weight instead if its too aggressive.

Too many questions dude. You have overwhelmed us.

1.I had no leaking if diffs at all, just used 1 seal no probs
2.cant answer any q's about tiers or 8mm as I am not at your track. Probably have to figure this one out yourself. Just trial and error
3. Some people need the .5 shim some didn't. My rear diff would only take a .4 and the front was fine with the stock .2. Seems the different batches had different tolerances Again you need to do some trial and error for yourself.
4. With my exotek I still used weight up front, just an ounce on each side.
Honestly tho... The truck was more nimble and faster with the stock chassis and weight under the slipper am up front. The Exo planted it, but for my track (smooth indoor) not needed really only needed for loose outdoor tracks.

Good luck. You'll figure this stuff out after you get some real wheel time.
I liked the bk setup the best

Building my FT SC10 4X4 and wondering how much the transmissions should freewheel after putting the cases together. Mine is smooth for the most part but doesn't freewheel at all. Is this a concern or does this sound normal. I put a dab of grease on the gears and it didn't help.

Thanks...

Sounds like your good to go, gets smoother after a few packs..