Thanks, forgot the pro 4 was a 540. lol

Thanks Bryant,
just a couple more questions, how is the MMP SCT combo, are they race legal? If so, how are they compare with the more race tuned setup from LRP, Tekin, etc...? What advantage or disadvantage the Castle system has over the other. I've been hearing so much talk about systems from Castle, just thought I throw it out there.
Gixx

Anyone found an easier faster way to change the servo out of this truck what a pain!!!

That's correct, I had the same ESC with tekin sc4x 4.5t motor. I've got a fan on the esc and run LRP works team capacitor-

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-74V-Capacitor

Can do a full pk. with esc temping around 100d and motor about 170d. Zero issues/glitches even with savox servos.

Castle makes good stuff, especially for the money. At my race track I have seen people with castle escs thermal during the race and have heard quite a bit that even with a "glitch buster" the internal BEC can not be strong enough for the servo at times. I personally love all my Tekin stuff. I have an RX8 in my SC10 4x4 and a RS Pro in my 2 Wheel short course. I had a B4.1 that I just sold with another RS Pro and have never had a problem with them. Hotwire is awesome for tuning, but so is castle link.

9 screws. The trick is to do it a few times then you can probably do it in less than 10mins.

Yes, the LRP esc is also very smooth. I am running the sc4x 5.5. With a power hungry servo and it handles it. This esc is expensive but worth the money.

Start wrenching! lol

If you are talking "ROAR 4X4 SCT Legal" (Newish designation on their Approved Brushless Motors chart) then no, they are not. The 1415 motor is 1:8th legal, and the 1410 is "modified" legal...

RC Pro Series will allow it, as 4x4 SCT is an Open class. Most local clubs will allow it as well. Heck, you could cram an 8th scale monster in there if you REALLY wanted to...There IS such thing as "too much" power.

Slightly more efficient, since the motor is unsensored...not as smooth, especially on the low end...cannot take advantage of some tuning options... Even the 1410 has more power than we can put down through 90% of our large 8th scale track.

+1

If you're looking for good performance, lots of power, and relatively inexpensive, they are good. A friend of mine runs the MMP with a Novak 5.5T 550 and a savox high voltage servo. He had to use a stand-alone BEC for the servo because even at the 6V that the MMP can output, the current draw was causing major issues.

Just bear this in mind: Castle is focussed where 80% of the RC market is. Bashing. Where "More power is more better" and there are no rules to be worried about.

Clear the motor with your local track's race director for club racing, use it at RCPS events, but be advised that it will likely not pass tech at a ROAR sanctioned event.

The MMP is ROAR legal, and so is the 1410 (in Modified, ofc).

+2 for LRP Sphere-Competition speed controls and Tekin motors.
LRP speed controls are VERY adjustable and easy to use.

I race them with my Tekin 10.5 2wd SC10 and my Tekin SCX 4.5 4wd SC10-4x4.

All I do is add the glitch-buster/capacitor in the receivers of both trucks and use JR high-torque digital servos.

Hey guy's I'm Tim. I just bought my SC10 4x4 tonight, so I thought I'd drop in here and say hi and read up on it a little bit. And while at my LHS I had a few questions that really couldn't be answered with a average answer. Sorry I know they might have been asked and answered prior, but I just to find out what diff oils would be good to use. They told me 65k in the front and 5k in the rear diff's, but it really doesn't sound right to me, with the huge difference between the two. I'll be racing on a mixture of a dirt/clay track and it's a little loose and running on carpet. Kinda looking for a weight I can run on both. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

65k is to high IMO, most people are running between 20-30k front, I personally run 10k for now and will try out 20k+ but no higher then 30K..........5k to 7k in the rear is good.......

Starting with 30k in the front would be a better starting spot. 5 to 7 in the rear.

+1