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Old 01-20-2012 | 03:43 PM
  #15376  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
With the stock body they kind of do but with other bodies they seem fine.
Will the tires rub on the fenders during suspension travel?
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Old 01-20-2012 | 03:55 PM
  #15377  
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Originally Posted by johnbugman
anyone ever temp there ball diff yet? I clocked mine at 137 f and im asking this cause im trying to back mine off to see if i can correct my rear end coming around issue discussed earlier. where only talkingn1/4 turns backing off from complete lockdown on nut.
I know this may seem elementary, but are you using the 19t pulley in the rear?? Maybe you installed it bf you tried the ball diff and forgot it was being used?? I have seen one person think he had the 20t on and when he checked it was the 19t, simple oversight that had him searching for answers elsewhere and that was it all along..Just saying it's worth a check..
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Old 01-20-2012 | 04:01 PM
  #15378  
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no 20 t for sure installed in the rear. The motor is running in the 150 range so i could see the heat transfer happening. I did some research and the lowest grade plastic melts at 250 f. the mid grade plastics melt at 380f and the delrin ones melt at 600f. just want to see what i can get away with by backing off diff nut to get the 'diff' affect correct without melting down or ruining it.
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Old 01-20-2012 | 04:34 PM
  #15379  
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Stormer Hobbies had the Exotek Chassis at $99.99 but nil stock at the moment and it is worth every cent, traction rolling is a now a thing of the past, jumping is much more predictable, it is worth at least a second a lap
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Old 01-20-2012 | 04:38 PM
  #15380  
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Default Stick pack centered in chassis

I keep reading about mod's people are doing to put a stick pack centered on the chassis under the belt. Anyone got a picture?

I have $500 invested in stick packs and don't want to go to saddle packs just to center my battery weight
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Old 01-20-2012 | 05:09 PM
  #15381  
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Originally Posted by domekat
Stormer Hobbies had the Exotek Chassis at $99.99 but nil stock at the moment and it is worth every cent, traction rolling is a now a thing of the past, jumping is much more predictable, it is worth at least a second a lap
Got mine here 99.95 shipped. http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/1162.htm
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Old 01-20-2012 | 05:56 PM
  #15382  
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Originally Posted by LouDawg
So I finally got my 5x10x3 bearings in the mail and fixed up the slop in the diff out drives. The mod removed 90% of the slop and is now wobble-free.
Thanks to the original poster for telling us about the mod.

Cut the ends of the case down from this:


To this:



Add 5x10x3 bearings:


so how does this help you? i havent noticed an issue in my truck? thanks
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Old 01-20-2012 | 05:58 PM
  #15383  
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Originally Posted by Misfit138
how fast did they ship?

for this chassis, are you guys running the center saddle setup or that forward saddle setup they make parts for?
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Old 01-20-2012 | 06:05 PM
  #15384  
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Originally Posted by Cain
how fast did they ship?

for this chassis, are you guys running the center saddle setup or that forward saddle setup they make parts for?
Ordered on the 16th got it yesterday and it sure looks good.
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-001.jpg  

Last edited by Misfit138; 01-20-2012 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 01-20-2012 | 06:38 PM
  #15385  
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Originally Posted by Snafujg
I keep reading about mod's people are doing to put a stick pack centered on the chassis under the belt. Anyone got a picture?

I have $500 invested in stick packs and don't want to go to saddle packs just to center my battery weight
Try post 14648 and go from there
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Old 01-20-2012 | 07:25 PM
  #15386  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
If you want to upgrade the stock, I think the best way to go is to add a steel plate to the bottom as one user posted a few dozen pages ago. Using liquid nails or something like that instead of screws so you get consistent contact which would add some stiffness as well.
That was me lol. Yes I added 2 steel plates stacked together (one on top of the other) to the bottom of the chassis. I drilled holes and counter bored them then ran the screws through and put 3mm lock nuts on top of the chassis. I wouldn't think using some kind of adhesive would be a good idea. What if it were to fly off in a horrific crash? I could see a huge Chinese star flying at some poor marshalls head lol.

I did this because I read somewhere that the Losi was a full 10oz heavier then the AE. My thought was, even with the 100 dollar (ouch) chassis in the middle I would still need to add some weight to at least be even with the with the Losi. The steel plates weigh just about 6oz a peice.

My truck in race trim on a digital scale without body weighed 6.0lbs even. After I pun on the plates it weighed 6.8lbs. Thats 6lbs 12.8oz. The Losi in race trim was 6.75. Thats 6lbs 12oz. with a difference of .8oz. Thats nothing really, and those numbers also will vary some depending on the equipment you run obviously.

It definitely makes the truck feel more planted, and when there is contact with another truck (insert Losi here) its no longer like a Kia bouncing into a Ford Excursion lol. Motor temps never changed, all I had to do was add some tension to my springs for my ride heigth.
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Old 01-20-2012 | 07:50 PM
  #15387  
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Originally Posted by Cain
for people using a 5.5 550 Tekin setup with 32P gears, what are you seeing on your tracks as far as what pinions you are using?

I know its track specific how you gear, but curious to see what others are experiencing in comparison to what AE recommends?

If you run 1/8 e buggy, how you gear top speed wise in comparison I would like to know as well. (ex- your buggy is geared for say 40 mph, is your 4x4 SCT geared for the same top speed or less?)

Also what are peoples opinions of the Novak 32P 5mm gears?
I picked up both Novak 3-packs so I've got 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17. I ran the 13 twice, 14 for about a month, then bumped to the 15/62 on a large blue-groove 8th scale track. Temps never went over 160 on the motor and the fan on my RX8 had turned off by the time I came down off the driver's stand, even after a full 15 minutes of race-pace practice. This was before I got my garodisks so if you've got garos or a clutch basket, I don't know if this will be a great comparison.

Oh, and all season long, I never had a problem with the Novak pinions. It's the one thing that I have bought from Novak with zero regrets.
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Old 01-20-2012 | 07:55 PM
  #15388  
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Originally Posted by Thomas P
i am just satisfied with this car, the car goes like a dream around the track..think i will go for a sensor design combo..not sure yet what version/brand
Money no problem? Get a Tekin RX8/Pro4 4000. Sensored 4-pole 540. DREAM

Gotta save some cash? MMP with an SC4x 5.5T. My buddy's been running that for a while and it's been good. I prefer my RX8....been dreaming about getting an iX8 but I'm reading there are problems with the LVD running on just 2S (It's really geared towards 8th scale, so 3-5S....maybe the next firmware will fix it....)
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Old 01-20-2012 | 07:56 PM
  #15389  
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for the exotek chassis inline saddlepack conversion, anyone got pics of what exactly you need to do this?
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Old 01-20-2012 | 08:32 PM
  #15390  
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Originally Posted by IRM616
so how does this help you? i havent noticed an issue in my truck? thanks
Well how many runs are on your truck? If its the first few battery packs then no you wont have this terrible promblem untill you run the truck more.
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