Hi. Can anyone help me sort out some handling issues. You can PM me if needed. My RTR is all stock.

1. The truck will lose the rear end and spin around very easily with no power on, coming to a stop without brakes and turning the steering. Even on high grip surface. How do I stop the rear going out?

2. When powering down a loose surface straight, the rear breaks out and goes sideways too easy.

Will heavier diff lube in the front diff fix both these problems? What weight?

Buy new tires that work at your track and go from there ...

Have you raced it yet ?

Just got my sc10 4x4 today and relized that shocks, diffs,and some other pcs are pre-assembled. Since when did this happen????A brand new truck and I already have to buy rebiuld kits,gaskets and seals. For what so some JO Ceo can have a huge bonus when we are buying parts before we even turn the first screw. I have had it. I should send this thing back and them to stick it!!!What about my time to take stuff apart just to put it back together. I bought a kit for a REASON. Sorry just had to vent

No need to send it back , just tap off the
shocks with oil (30w ft & 25w rear)

Also fill the diff's with oil as well (10K ft & 7k rear)...

No need to change the seals on the shocks yet, although Ae
did include extra ....

Thanks for the set-up tips. I was actually thinking more of a 35w ft 30 r on the oils. I like to slow the shocks down a little. But I'am totally lost on what diffs viscosity to use will that be a good starting point?? med track,bumpy,loose and tight turns????

boborc , the oil you are thinking of sounds great ....

Many use diff oil 7k ft & 5 k rear , but think you will like the first suggestion more betta.

Sound like you have your clicker set to free wheel off power. Try locking it down all the way so it full time 4wd. I had the same issue after building my kit. Most 550 motors have so much torque, they almost cause the wheels to lock up when you want to coast. Also try adjusting your speedo for zero drag break and maybe add a little throttle trim so it will roll off power easier.

Thanks for the info. Can't seem to find many running the Vipers in 4x4. Some say the new Copperheads are powerful. I really like the idea of the progauge. Guess I will see if I get anymore input or I'll just buy the Tekin Pro4 4000.

I've been using the VTX10R with VST 6.0L on a small high traction indoor track and have no problems keeping up with the pro4 setups. Viper gives you plenty of adjustability and I really like some of the unique features, like adjustable motor and ESC temp cutoffs. Having said that, I have mine geared 62/14 and have yet to see temps above 145F.

I don't know anything about the copperheads but I can say the Tekin Pro4 4K works really well in my setup. The fastest guys at my track run Losi's with Pro4 4600s and I have no problem staying with them.

I ran 60/15 gearing and may go up another tooth on the pinion.
On the MMP I ran 30deg of timing and started at 8K and fully advanced at 17,200rpm. I also set torqe limiting at 7. Temps were never more than 128F on the motor and the fan never came on the MMP.

Acceleration is smooth and quick and has plenty of top end.
Couldn't be more pleased with my motor choice.

got a pic of ur truck?

Hey guys, I have the Exotech and thinking about going to saddles. With a 550 can it seems like I would almost need the stick pack to balance the weight and that running saddles in line would make the truck much heavier on the left side. I think I'm most likely wrong on this seeing how many of you guys love the saddles. Could someone please explain to me where I'm wrong so that I can go ahead and order my packs and rcshox conversion.

Thanks,

ok will do. just hate to tear apart a truck thats kickin so much ass! lol Its due for a rebuild anyway. stock hardware kinda rustin out. I am well aware diff fluid is wrong but the last time i rebuilt it was about 3 months ago and 30k was the go to weight to use. thanks for the advice.

Yeah I'll probally go 10k f 7k r or maybe 5k r. Clueless on this because I have only had ball diffs in most of my 10th scales except I converted my T4 to a sc10 gear diff and I actually like running 20k in the rear on that even with tight turns. seems more planted comming out of the turns and sure footed on the bumps. But in my 1/8 scale I usually run 5k,7k,3k f,c,r. Any other things that are a must before I even start driving??? I was thinking of the chasis brace but the tracks I go to are almost always slippery so I'am up in the air about the brace what is your suggestion??