RC10B4.1 FT/WC
09-20-2011 | 01:01 PM
#6031
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 138
From: OC - CA
There are probably really no secrets they are hiding. I've been on the other side of the fence from time to time and people swear I'm cheating and hiding something to the point I would take their motors out of their car, and slap them strait into mine. You said they pull away from you on tight sections. This tells me your corner speed maybe a bit lacking and that comes with practice and knowledge of car setup. I'm told some of the newer brushless motors are better designed for blinky racing so you might think about getting one, but with that said corner speed is everything. A 1 mph increase in corner exit speed can give you huge returns at the end of the straight. Taking a line through a corner which allows the earliest possible point of getting back into the throttle is usually best provided it doesn't set you up weird for an obstacle.
I think I only need to shave about 1/2 a second per lap to get on the podium consistently.
To be fair, it's not that the guys at my track wont talk to me at all about what they're up to....they just wont give up all of their motor or gearing secrets either.
HOWEVER...I just got some intel on something that one of the fast guys has been up to... He is using a Team Powers 17.5 with the 13.0 rotor on his SC10. I don't know if he's doing that with his buggy too though...sigh. That said, he ALSO ran it with 33% boost in modified SC. He took the 3rd spot, too. He was leading for the 1st 2 minutes of the main until he cased the triple, too.
That got me thinking about what else these guys may be up to that I don't know about...
09-20-2011 | 02:23 PM
#6032
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 711
Alright here's the best way I can help with the arm situation.
Attached is a picture of the current selection of arms.
The top one is a carbon arm. The stiffest arm, it is signified by one swaybar mount ball (B4 swaybar, not B44), and a very light color.
The middle one is a B44/B44.1 arm (the materiel did not change between vehicles). This arm has more flex than a carbon arm but less than a B4.1 plastic arm. Notable differences are, glossy color as well as a cut out on the webbing of the rear hub along. If you look very very closely you can see rectangular indentations on the top of the arm from the mold.
The bottom one is a B4.1 plastic arm, the softest arm made. A dark dull color as well as no cut on the webbing and two swaybar mounts are the best way to recognize this arm. Again if you look very closely you can see circular (as opposed to rectangular) indentations from the mold.
The original B4 plastic arm (older materiel) isn't produced any more but can still be found at some hobby shops. It has one swaybar mount and looks exactly like the carbon arm, just a darker color.
Attached is a picture of the current selection of arms.
The top one is a carbon arm. The stiffest arm, it is signified by one swaybar mount ball (B4 swaybar, not B44), and a very light color.
The middle one is a B44/B44.1 arm (the materiel did not change between vehicles). This arm has more flex than a carbon arm but less than a B4.1 plastic arm. Notable differences are, glossy color as well as a cut out on the webbing of the rear hub along. If you look very very closely you can see rectangular indentations on the top of the arm from the mold.
The bottom one is a B4.1 plastic arm, the softest arm made. A dark dull color as well as no cut on the webbing and two swaybar mounts are the best way to recognize this arm. Again if you look very closely you can see circular (as opposed to rectangular) indentations from the mold.
The original B4 plastic arm (older materiel) isn't produced any more but can still be found at some hobby shops. It has one swaybar mount and looks exactly like the carbon arm, just a darker color.
09-21-2011 | 10:11 AM
#6036
I want to thank you all for all your thoughts and ideas on the topic of why those 4 guys are always a bit faster than me. I'm going to take a good hard look at it.
I think I only need to shave about 1/2 a second per lap to get on the podium consistently.
To be fair, it's not that the guys at my track wont talk to me at all about what they're up to....they just wont give up all of their motor or gearing secrets either.
HOWEVER...I just got some intel on something that one of the fast guys has been up to... He is using a Team Powers 17.5 with the 13.0 rotor on his SC10. I don't know if he's doing that with his buggy too though...sigh. That said, he ALSO ran it with 33% boost in modified SC. He took the 3rd spot, too. He was leading for the 1st 2 minutes of the main until he cased the triple, too.
That got me thinking about what else these guys may be up to that I don't know about...
I think I only need to shave about 1/2 a second per lap to get on the podium consistently.
To be fair, it's not that the guys at my track wont talk to me at all about what they're up to....they just wont give up all of their motor or gearing secrets either.
HOWEVER...I just got some intel on something that one of the fast guys has been up to... He is using a Team Powers 17.5 with the 13.0 rotor on his SC10. I don't know if he's doing that with his buggy too though...sigh. That said, he ALSO ran it with 33% boost in modified SC. He took the 3rd spot, too. He was leading for the 1st 2 minutes of the main until he cased the triple, too.
That got me thinking about what else these guys may be up to that I don't know about...
09-21-2011 | 10:17 AM
#6037
09-21-2011 | 01:39 PM
#6040
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 138
From: OC - CA
Not really sure which brand. I'm just told by some people that race alot of spec that some of the newer stuff is faster for blinky classes vs some of the older stuff. I've been racing modified and nitro. There are plenty of threads that compare motors to do research in. Wouldn't really be on topic for this thread.
Well that's not really secrets that's just cheating. A 13.0mm rotor is cheating under ROAR spec motor rules. The largest allowed is 12.51mm (no tolerance given) in ROAR spec classes but your track may or may not be following that rule set (Rule #8.8.4.4.2) so you need to ask them.
Well that's not really secrets that's just cheating. A 13.0mm rotor is cheating under ROAR spec motor rules. The largest allowed is 12.51mm (no tolerance given) in ROAR spec classes but your track may or may not be following that rule set (Rule #8.8.4.4.2) so you need to ask them.
That said... based on some feedback I've received I've decided to pick up a Plutonium 17.5 (Team Powers). I've been told they run very cool and have a lot of torque. If it works as planned I should be able to gear it to the moon and still get some low end punch on my medium-ish sized track!
I don't think it will fix everything but I suspect it will get me a bit closer to my goal.
I should have a report with some race results within a week.
09-21-2011 | 02:34 PM
#6042
09-21-2011 | 05:44 PM
#6043
b4.1 is mine
hey guys, so i recently tried the rb5 sp2. It worked really well and for 130 bux it was a steal. The car was smooth no play in parts and maybe i dare to say very VERY close to a b4.1 but it was a little easier to drive, I have used a b4.1 since i started last january and have learned alot since then about parts, setup and got to know it very well. Proud to say I am sticking with this car for now and my 8mm chassis is being done with l brace aluminum peices
. I grinded the u brace were the ball studs go flat for a higher roll center we will see. But i love sloppy b4.1's it is just my type
If anybody is thinking about changing please think about this post just to save some money and time, it was fun but i like my A.E!
. I grinded the u brace were the ball studs go flat for a higher roll center we will see. But i love sloppy b4.1's it is just my type If anybody is thinking about changing please think about this post just to save some money and time, it was fun but i like my A.E!
