RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#6181
hey i got a dumb question and its related to b4.1 set up so maybe i can get some insite,,im makin a stock buggy set up and i have a icon 17.5 and a tekin rs for electronics..im my mod sc set up i was talked into adding castle bullet connectors on the motor wires for ease of removal and if i needed to swap another motor that had leads, i didnt need to solder at the track..my question is would it be "rookie" move to put those in this buggy set up ..I understand direct has the least amount of resistance (we went direct on my 4x4 sc set up but it didnt have to go thru tower)but is it really something to get excited about (the resistance of a bullet connnector),..i like the idea of the bullets cause if i want to throw my mod motor in its already soldered w/bullets and ready to drop in,just curious as to what some of you do..If you ran the motor wires thru the rear shock towers direct ..you would have to de-solder just to remove electronics from chassis right? with sc i enjoyed to remove electronics for certain detail sessions.perhaps thats not how buggy guys do it.thnks in advance
#6182
hey i got a dumb question and its related to b4.1 set up so maybe i can get some insite,,im makin a stock buggy set up and i have a icon 17.5 and a tekin rs for electronics..im my mod sc set up i was talked into adding castle bullet connectors on the motor wires for ease of removal and if i needed to swap another motor that had leads, i didnt need to solder at the track..my question is would it be "rookie" move to put those in this buggy set up ..I understand direct has the least amount of resistance (we went direct on my 4x4 sc set up but it didnt have to go thru tower)but is it really something to get excited about (the resistance of a bullet connnector),..i like the idea of the bullets cause if i want to throw my mod motor in its already soldered w/bullets and ready to drop in,just curious as to what some of you do..If you ran the motor wires thru the rear shock towers direct ..you would have to de-solder just to remove electronics from chassis right? with sc i enjoyed to remove electronics for certain detail sessions.perhaps thats not how buggy guys do it.thnks in advance

Shouldnt have any problems running bullet connectors. Just make sure they are high quality bullets like the ones that come on some castle stuff.. Nice tight connections. Obviously the preferred method is to just direct solder.
#6183
hey i got a dumb question and its related to b4.1 set up so maybe i can get some insite,,im makin a stock buggy set up and i have a icon 17.5 and a tekin rs for electronics..im my mod sc set up i was talked into adding castle bullet connectors on the motor wires for ease of removal and if i needed to swap another motor that had leads, i didnt need to solder at the track..my question is would it be "rookie" move to put those in this buggy set up ..I understand direct has the least amount of resistance (we went direct on my 4x4 sc set up but it didnt have to go thru tower)but is it really something to get excited about (the resistance of a bullet connnector),..i like the idea of the bullets cause if i want to throw my mod motor in its already soldered w/bullets and ready to drop in,just curious as to what some of you do..If you ran the motor wires thru the rear shock towers direct ..you would have to de-solder just to remove electronics from chassis right? with sc i enjoyed to remove electronics for certain detail sessions.perhaps thats not how buggy guys do it.thnks in advance

AND YET
None of them are doing it. So what does that tell you?
#6185
Looks good, you didn't even have to modify the tab for the shock tower.
My suggestion is to just use bullets for your battery/esc connection and direct solder the motor/esc wires. De-soldering and re-soldering isn't that big a deal, and the more you do it the better you get at it
hey i got a dumb question and its related to b4.1 set up so maybe i can get some insite,,im makin a stock buggy set up and i have a icon 17.5 and a tekin rs for electronics..im my mod sc set up i was talked into adding castle bullet connectors on the motor wires for ease of removal and if i needed to swap another motor that had leads, i didnt need to solder at the track..my question is would it be "rookie" move to put those in this buggy set up ..I understand direct has the least amount of resistance (we went direct on my 4x4 sc set up but it didnt have to go thru tower)but is it really something to get excited about (the resistance of a bullet connnector),..i like the idea of the bullets cause if i want to throw my mod motor in its already soldered w/bullets and ready to drop in,just curious as to what some of you do..If you ran the motor wires thru the rear shock towers direct ..you would have to de-solder just to remove electronics from chassis right? with sc i enjoyed to remove electronics for certain detail sessions.perhaps thats not how buggy guys do it.thnks in advance

#6187
. I would also take a look at the rcrd aluminum chassis (available in +4,8,12)http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...g-designs.html
#6188
the difference in traction is amazing... the car jumps soo much smoother and allows landings to be alittle "off" every once and awhile without throwing the car all crazy.
the largest difference i have seen is that it just feels like you can put down alot more power with the +8mm chassis.
in fact i went to a faster motor when i swapped to the 8mm chassis.
the largest difference i have seen is that it just feels like you can put down alot more power with the +8mm chassis.
in fact i went to a faster motor when i swapped to the 8mm chassis.
#6189
Ill be at the jc race.. just come find me and you can try what ever you want on the long chassis.. I will also have all 3 JC bodies with me the reg punisher/punisher+8/finnisher+8. I also mounted up the stock body i guess thats the bulldog? just in case mine didnt get here in time from painter for thelong chassis, looks fineand wasnt really that big of a deal. Ill prob be sitting with my local buddys from South Jersey(Mike Gay,AndyCastellini). My paint jobs look likAttachment 813925e this
Last edited by Blue Screw; 10-14-2011 at 11:26 PM.
#6190
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 181
From: Clermont, FL
the difference in traction is amazing... the car jumps soo much smoother and allows landings to be alittle "off" every once and awhile without throwing the car all crazy.
the largest difference i have seen is that it just feels like you can put down alot more power with the +8mm chassis.
in fact i went to a faster motor when i swapped to the 8mm chassis.
the largest difference i have seen is that it just feels like you can put down alot more power with the +8mm chassis.
in fact i went to a faster motor when i swapped to the 8mm chassis.
#6191
Thanks Jake! Im still trying to decide what to get. Im leaning toward the Losi 22 to be honest. Just seems like for a slower driver like me, it will be easier to drive fast. To buy a B4.1 plus spend extra money on the longer chassis, a $249 buggy turns into a $320 buggy then you have to buy the special body, etc...I like AE but im torn! Im sure AE will evetually mass produce a buggy to compare with the Durango 210 and the Losi 22 as far as the mid/rear motor option, the narrow weight up the center chassis. The B4.2 a possibility? Maybe by the time I decide what the heck to get, it will be on the market and my decision will be easier..lol
I tried a 22 and to be honest it just isn't as well put together as the b4.1. The quality, fit and finish don't compare. It drives great once you make all the mods to it you need to, diff, slipper, and few other things. Don't assume you won't spend money on it too to get it right.
I sold mine and went back to my b4.1 after about a month. I'm not going back!
#6192
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 181
From: Clermont, FL
not to start a controversy but...
I tried a 22 and to be honest it just isn't as well put together as the b4.1. The quality, fit and finish don't compare. It drives great once you make all the mods to it you need to, diff, slipper, and few other things. Don't assume you won't spend money on it too to get it right.
I sold mine and went back to my b4.1 after about a month. I'm not going back!
I tried a 22 and to be honest it just isn't as well put together as the b4.1. The quality, fit and finish don't compare. It drives great once you make all the mods to it you need to, diff, slipper, and few other things. Don't assume you won't spend money on it too to get it right.
I sold mine and went back to my b4.1 after about a month. I'm not going back!
#6193
Thanks Jake! Im still trying to decide what to get. Im leaning toward the Losi 22 to be honest. Just seems like for a slower driver like me, it will be easier to drive fast. To buy a B4.1 plus spend extra money on the longer chassis, a $249 buggy turns into a $320 buggy then you have to buy the special body, etc...I like AE but im torn! Im sure AE will evetually mass produce a buggy to compare with the Durango 210 and the Losi 22 as far as the mid/rear motor option, the narrow weight up the center chassis. The B4.2 a possibility? Maybe by the time I decide what the heck to get, it will be on the market and my decision will be easier..lol
#6195
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motor is soooo smoooth