hey guys, i heard a few people are running kyosho shocks on their b4's. I have 2 sets with springs and pistons i would sell if anyone is interested. pm me. one used and one assembled by not used.

most are running the V2 ae shocks with ae springs and some are just using kyosho springs on the ae shocks. Good spot to post that would be the for-sale section

Coupon code is 014P6 to save $40 but only thru 9-30. Gotta join to be a Super Saver for $9.99 also like Oval said..

so can somebody argue why im not as fast with my long chassis compared to stock? here is my setup-
front of car- 30 weight losi oil 3 limiters dark yellow k springs,#1 piston
shock is inside tower out of arm
camber link is in on the tower with one washer,middle hole on caster block
2 bump steer spaces.spindles are shimmed middle and caster block is shimmed forward.

Back of the car-30 weight losi oil #2 piston 2 limiters dark yellow k springs
shock is inside of tower and arm, i grinded the u brace flat no washers under stud which is inside hole, middle hole on plastic hubs zero degree shimmed middle.

carbon rear arms, plastic hinge pin brace 8.5 sp moter lrp sxx stock spec

Try Brent's Surf City 8m set-up posted on Rc-10.com.....

do not use the U-brace you have ground, use graphite rear brace, arms ,nose plate & Ft brace...

ok i am running med to high bite small technical track..thanks and what you only use the ground u brace with stock chassis?

I tried it for a bit and went slower, went back to stock u brace and went right back to speed.

it feels like crap honestly , i can drive fast but not consistant like i was...

Maybe a stupid question, but what is the ground U brace. What does it help on the stock chassis?

Same problem here, my B4 +8mm is slower and does not handle as well as the stock chassis. Havent given up yet on it as it must be settings or suspension, but not as good as a normal B4 so far.

it plantes the rear better and i noticed no push really it steering just as much as before but iwas running 3.0 degrees of toein. try it its cheap and takes no time really..

What is it that you grind down?

when you buy the C hubs there are some optional instructions that describe the grinding of the brace. It is right where the rear inner ball cup clips on, right where the ball stud is screwed in. Myself and many friends tried it with mixed results, I am back to a stock brace. A shaved down version also breaks easier fyi.

Use the grounded U brace when using the rear C brace on the rear hub.


Brents 8M set-up is very good , has great corner speed & balance....

so can someone explain the new hex hub conversion using the new asc front hubs and axles, i was told to buy the sc10RS front hubs and just not run the hexs on the pins so as to use the t4 rear wheels on all 4 corners, but the axles are too short, the e-clip channel doesnt extend out further that the outer bearing. Anyone else have this problem of have any other ideas..... im tired of buying front and rear specific wheels.