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Old 10-26-2011 | 10:45 PM
  #6946  
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Originally Posted by RickSlick
Building a B4.1 kit and doing Ok with except I hit a problem.
Anyone have problems building the transmission in guts?
I'm having problems with the main gear, the 2 bearings, the small ball bearings around the shaft. When I get it all in place to tighten down the hex head bolt to the wing type nut on the other side, I can't get the bolt driven down far enough to connect up with the wing nut. All the bearings are in place but the bolt isn't long enough to grab the nut on the other side.
Does any of this make any sense or am I talking jibberish?
Any one have this build problem?

Rick
It's just the way it is, the spring is stiff when new. I lay a small hex wrench in the slot of the outdrive so that I can push down on the spring while turning the screw. Understand?
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Old 10-26-2011 | 11:12 PM
  #6947  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
It's just the way it is, the spring is stiff when new. I lay a small hex wrench in the slot of the outdrive so that I can push down on the spring while turning the screw. Understand?
It's always a good idea to put the spring in some channel lock pliers and smash it down a few times before instillation. I learned that trick from the Kyosho manuals. It says to do that with the diff and slipper springs. It breaks them in I guess?
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Old 10-26-2011 | 11:14 PM
  #6948  
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN-
It's always a good idea to put the spring in some channel lock pliers and smash it down a few times before instillation. I learned that trick from the Kyosho manuals. It says to do that with the diff and slipper springs. It breaks them in I guess?
AE has you do it with the slipper spring but not the one in the diff, so I don't but that's me..
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Old 10-27-2011 | 08:25 AM
  #6949  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
AE has you do it with the slipper spring but not the one in the diff, so I don't but that's me..
The diff building videos on AE's website show to compress the slipper spring as well before installing.

They use videos created by some drivers.

Just in case you are wondering...
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Old 10-27-2011 | 08:38 AM
  #6950  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Our track is ran dry and has a medium amount of bite at best. The track develops a fine layer of dust that was swept off every 5 races or so. The main thing you need to learn is to drive the car smooth and you will be rewarded. If you try to push it too hard lap times will suffer.

Brent's car went from looking ok when he first showed up to looking really good by the time the mains came around. You can see that in the fact that he qualified 5th and ended up 2nd.
do you need a lot of steering at this track?
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Old 10-27-2011 | 09:20 AM
  #6951  
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Originally Posted by Jake S
kyosho silver is really close to an associated green, so its not THAT stiff lol. which i guess is confusing when some of the ae setups say "Kyosho Silver (AE Silver)" on them that i saw.

drove a b4 with green/green and it had ALOT of steering. tbh i had to run kyosho yellow or orange with a bulldog body tho, the finnisher has alot more steering imho.

with the short chassis the kyosho silver would most likely not work at all. and i am running on a really high bite indoor clay track too.
OK...

Associated Buggy Front Brown - 2.8
Associated Buggy Front Black - 3.2
Associated Buggy Front Green - 3.5
Associated Buggy Front Silver - 3.85

Kyosho Buggy Front #55 Orange - 2.78 45mm
Kyosho Buggy Front #60 Dark Yellow - 2.9 45mm
Kyosho Buggy Front #65 Light Yellow - 3.2 45mm
Kyosho Buggy Front #75 Light Green - 3.2 38mm
Kyosho Buggy Front #70 Silver - 3.3 45mm


The standard spring most of us run in front is the AE brown which is 2.8 lb/in. The Kyosho silver is 3.3 lb/in. That's what I was comparing it to. It is a significant difference.

I know moving the shock in on the arm takes away leverage. I'm just surprised it's enough to compensate and give you good steering. Do you think the silver in that position is firmer or softer than brown in the standard location?

*This is the one setting I've never tried because everyone I know swears that it makes the car's handling less predictable.

Last edited by Oso Negro; 10-27-2011 at 04:53 PM. Reason: corrected it so as not to confuse other readers
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Old 10-27-2011 | 09:52 AM
  #6952  
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where do you see that a front kyosho orange is 2.1? Every chart i have seen rates it at a 2.78, just under a AE brown.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggySpringChart.pdf
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Old 10-27-2011 | 09:54 AM
  #6953  
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Originally Posted by ovalracer1m
where do you see that a front kyosho orange is 2.1? Every chart i have seen rates it at a 2.78, just under a AE brown.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggySpringChart.pdf
typo maybe?

http://www.modrc.com/reference/offroad_springs.php
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Old 10-27-2011 | 10:26 AM
  #6954  
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Originally Posted by Oso Negro
modrc gotta have the typo, the orange k spring feels very very close to a AE brown just a bit more progressive. Not like it really matters, just wanted to clarify.
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Old 10-27-2011 | 12:17 PM
  #6955  
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Originally Posted by Oso Negro
The standard spring most of us run in front is the AE brown which is 2.8 lb/in. The Kyosho silver is 3.3 lb/in. That's what I was comparing it to. It is a significant difference.
i was just saying i DROVE a green/green setup (green is MORE STIFF than kyo silver) and the green/green had ALOT of steering.

humm team ae site isnt loading for me, but if you look at brents setup from surf city you can see that he ran silver in the front.
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Old 10-27-2011 | 01:34 PM
  #6956  
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I'm new to buggies and I just picked up a B4.1 roller. Is a 8.5T overkill? Any recommendations on ESCs? I run a MMP on my sc10 4x4 and lrp on my sc10 2wd, but I'm not crazy about either one.
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Old 10-27-2011 | 01:45 PM
  #6957  
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Since you don't care for the Castle or LRP then a Tekin RS is in order I'd say...
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Old 10-27-2011 | 01:46 PM
  #6958  
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being new to 2wd buggy a 8.5 might be a little overkill,

Most of the fast guys I race with locally are running 8.5 or 7.5 so it's your call. You can always turn down the EPA on your radio some to help tame it some.

ESC's? Depends on wht you want or need. Can always go with the Tekin RS for the 2wd. Not too expensive and will be fine in the 2wd, no real need for the Pro unless you just have to have it.

I have an old LRP Sphere in mine right now. Gets the job done, though doesn't have all the cool timing adjustments like the newer ESC's do, but some like it that way.
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Old 10-27-2011 | 01:56 PM
  #6959  
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Originally Posted by hotrodhomi
I'm new to buggies and I just picked up a B4.1 roller. Is a 8.5T overkill? Any recommendations on ESCs? I run a MMP on my sc10 4x4 and lrp on my sc10 2wd, but I'm not crazy about either one.
Depends on what you are doing with the buggy. Racing Stock? no, you will need a 17.5. Racing mod on a large outdoor european track? 7.5 is a minimum... Racing mod on a small indoor US track? 13.5 is probably good for a new buggy driver... Bashing outside? then it doesn't really matter.

We need more info.
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Old 10-27-2011 | 02:05 PM
  #6960  
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Originally Posted by Jason Haas
do you need a lot of steering at this track?
My car has a fairly good amount of steering, some have been running Blue Barcodes in the front but i like the feel of the rips in the front as it takes the twitchiness out of the car and makes it smoother. It really is how fast you can drive smooth.
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