RC10B4.1 FT/WC
09-20-2011, 07:37 AM
#6016
Who knows. Maybe once it starts losing 
?
?
09-20-2011, 08:13 AM
#6019
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
09-20-2011, 08:56 AM
#6021
Selling my 4.1... Custom long chassis included.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post9681144
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post9681144
09-20-2011, 09:35 AM
#6023
I will help a driver that is starting out or obviously having major issues, but if the driver is considered on equal footing I will help some but not give away the farm. I myself like to figure things out for myself in my pursuit of the fast guys. That is how you learn to do things for yourself.
09-20-2011, 09:38 AM
#6024
Does anyone have any issues with the steering bellcrank screws tightening up by themselves and binding up the steering? I have this issue on one of my SC10s. I don't have the issue with my B4.1 or my other SC10. Quite strange.... I had to take the front end apart twice in a week to loosen it up.
09-20-2011, 09:47 AM
#6025
Does anyone have any issues with the steering bellcrank screws tightening up by themselves and binding up the steering? I have this issue on one of my SC10s. I don't have the issue with my B4.1 or my other SC10. Quite strange.... I had to take the front end apart twice in a week to loosen it up.
09-20-2011, 09:49 AM
#6026
Tech Master
Alright here's the best way I can help with the arm situation.
Attached is a picture of the current selection of arms.
The top one is a carbon arm. The stiffest arm, it is signified by one swaybar mount ball (B4 swaybar, not B44), and a very light color.
The middle one is a B44/B44.1 arm (the materiel did not change between vehicles). This arm has more flex than a carbon arm but less than a B4.1 plastic arm. Notable differences are, glossy color as well as a cut out on the webbing of the rear hub along. If you look very very closely you can see rectangular indentations on the top of the arm from the mold.
The bottom one is a B4.1 plastic arm, the softest arm made. A dark dull color as well as no cut on the webbing and two swaybar mounts are the best way to recognize this arm. Again if you look very closely you can see circular (as opposed to rectangular) indentations from the mold.
The original B4 plastic arm (older materiel) isn't produced any more but can still be found at some hobby shops. It has one swaybar mount and looks exactly like the carbon arm, just a darker color.
Attached is a picture of the current selection of arms.
The top one is a carbon arm. The stiffest arm, it is signified by one swaybar mount ball (B4 swaybar, not B44), and a very light color.
The middle one is a B44/B44.1 arm (the materiel did not change between vehicles). This arm has more flex than a carbon arm but less than a B4.1 plastic arm. Notable differences are, glossy color as well as a cut out on the webbing of the rear hub along. If you look very very closely you can see rectangular indentations on the top of the arm from the mold.
The bottom one is a B4.1 plastic arm, the softest arm made. A dark dull color as well as no cut on the webbing and two swaybar mounts are the best way to recognize this arm. Again if you look very closely you can see circular (as opposed to rectangular) indentations from the mold.
The original B4 plastic arm (older materiel) isn't produced any more but can still be found at some hobby shops. It has one swaybar mount and looks exactly like the carbon arm, just a darker color.
09-20-2011, 11:56 AM
#6028
Alright here's the best way I can help with the arm situation.
Attached is a picture of the current selection of arms.
The top one is a carbon arm. The stiffest arm, it is signified by one swaybar mount ball (B4 swaybar, not B44), and a very light color.
The middle one is a B44/B44.1 arm (the materiel did not change between vehicles). This arm has more flex than a carbon arm but less than a B4.1 plastic arm. Notable differences are, glossy color as well as a cut out on the webbing of the rear hub along. If you look very very closely you can see rectangular indentations on the top of the arm from the mold.
The bottom one is a B4.1 plastic arm, the softest arm made. A dark dull color as well as no cut on the webbing and two swaybar mounts are the best way to recognize this arm. Again if you look very closely you can see circular (as opposed to rectangular) indentations from the mold.
The original B4 plastic arm (older materiel) isn't produced any more but can still be found at some hobby shops. It has one swaybar mount and looks exactly like the carbon arm, just a darker color.
Attached is a picture of the current selection of arms.
The top one is a carbon arm. The stiffest arm, it is signified by one swaybar mount ball (B4 swaybar, not B44), and a very light color.
The middle one is a B44/B44.1 arm (the materiel did not change between vehicles). This arm has more flex than a carbon arm but less than a B4.1 plastic arm. Notable differences are, glossy color as well as a cut out on the webbing of the rear hub along. If you look very very closely you can see rectangular indentations on the top of the arm from the mold.
The bottom one is a B4.1 plastic arm, the softest arm made. A dark dull color as well as no cut on the webbing and two swaybar mounts are the best way to recognize this arm. Again if you look very closely you can see circular (as opposed to rectangular) indentations from the mold.
The original B4 plastic arm (older materiel) isn't produced any more but can still be found at some hobby shops. It has one swaybar mount and looks exactly like the carbon arm, just a darker color.
09-20-2011, 12:22 PM
#6029
What 17.5 motor would you all recommend for a FT b4.1 8mm running in a blinky class?
I run at a medium size indoor clay track. My Tekin 17.5 isn't fast enough to keep up with the fast guys at my track.
I make the A-main every time but never finish higher than 5th. Those guys are always pulling away from me, especially in the tight sections, and they won't share their secrets!
in case it matters, i have a very smooth driving style. Running 72/33.
FYI: I saw that one of them was running a revtech on Sunday but I have no idea about the rest.
Thoughts, suggestions?
I run at a medium size indoor clay track. My Tekin 17.5 isn't fast enough to keep up with the fast guys at my track.
I make the A-main every time but never finish higher than 5th. Those guys are always pulling away from me, especially in the tight sections, and they won't share their secrets!
in case it matters, i have a very smooth driving style. Running 72/33.
FYI: I saw that one of them was running a revtech on Sunday but I have no idea about the rest.
Thoughts, suggestions?
09-20-2011, 12:26 PM
#6030
There are probably really no secrets they are hiding. I've been on the other side of the fence from time to time and people swear I'm cheating and hiding something to the point I would take their motors out of their car, and slap them strait into mine. You said they pull away from you on tight sections. This tells me your corner speed maybe a bit lacking and that comes with practice and knowledge of car setup. I'm told some of the newer brushless motors are better designed for blinky racing so you might think about getting one, but with that said corner speed is everything. A 1 mph increase in corner exit speed can give you huge returns at the end of the straight. Taking a line through a corner which allows the earliest possible point of getting back into the throttle is usually best provided it doesn't set you up weird for an obstacle.