RC10B4.1 FT/WC
11-17-2011 | 12:55 AM
#7516
I am pretty sure Brian Mellow races there and is an AE backed driver and should easily be able to help you with a setup. I'm not sure if he is on here or not.
+8mm http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...Short_Pack.pdf
+8mm http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ielke_SIGP.pdf
+8mm http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...Short_Pack.pdf
+8mm http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ielke_SIGP.pdf
11-17-2011 | 01:29 AM
#7517
11-17-2011 | 03:31 AM
#7519
Finally got my missing shocks from AE. Thanks Chris, top notch customer service. I will be an AE guy for a long time because of service like that. Love this buggy. Much different then my Hornet I raced 25 years ago. Yeah I said Hornet. Pretty basic paint, but I am no artist.
Last edited by Jerz616; 11-17-2011 at 05:40 AM. Reason: post pic
11-17-2011 | 04:32 AM
#7520
11-17-2011 | 05:46 AM
#7521
Tech Addict
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 526
From: Wichita,KS.
11-17-2011 | 06:42 AM
#7522
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Just fitted a 75 to my B4.1...smooth,and easy to mesh.Nice gear whine to it,instead of noisy AE spurs.
Packaged nicely,and the spur looks fantastic....
Impressed,SC10 getting a 78 next..
11-17-2011 | 07:01 AM
#7523
J-Concepts SS Spur Gears
I have been running the J-Concepts SS Spur gears for some time now and they are great. Being round they are easier and more precise to set mesh. They are deeper where the slipper pads sit in them making it easier to assemble slipper. And as advertised they are quiet. A quick word of advice is if you are getting the new spur don’t put your old chewed up pinion on there. If your pinion has blemishes on it it will transfer them to the new spurs. Get a new pinion at the same time and you will be assured a long life of Silent Speed to come.
11-17-2011 | 07:57 AM
#7524
2 things to try. First put some thin CA in the bulkhead screw holes but don't put the screws in until the CA dries. Make sure the CA is a thin coat and doesn't fill up the hole.
Next thing is to tap them out with a 440 tap. Just don't go too far in cause the holes aren't very deep. Once the tap bottoms unscrew it then put some 440x3/8" screws in. If those ever come loose put a little CA in there like option one. Don't glue the screws in though cause when you take the screws out the plastic threads will come out with the screw.
Next thing is to tap them out with a 440 tap. Just don't go too far in cause the holes aren't very deep. Once the tap bottoms unscrew it then put some 440x3/8" screws in. If those ever come loose put a little CA in there like option one. Don't glue the screws in though cause when you take the screws out the plastic threads will come out with the screw.
Sorry - forgot to say thank you for this info. glad to see I ain't the only one this is happening to. If I tap it won't be 4-40 but M3, thread structure is way more resistant to traction
Cheers
Paul
11-17-2011 | 08:01 AM
#7525
My 2cts on the hex thing... I've stripped two or three rims max since 1998 on my losi or AE cars... granted, I haven't ran them continuously every season since then, but every time I stripped a rim with the pin, it was clearly because the locknut had come loose... solution is easy, change locknuts often... the hex will help to slow down the stripping phenomenon as it provides more "keying" depth for the axle into the plastic and only one dimension for the rim to move around the "key" (the axial one) but it only slows it down - the solution is new locknuts, regularly 
Paul
Paul
11-17-2011 | 08:16 AM
#7526
My 2cts on the hex thing... I've stripped two or three rims max since 1998 on my losi or AE cars... granted, I haven't ran them continuously every season since then, but every time I stripped a rim with the pin, it was clearly because the locknut had come loose... solution is easy, change locknuts often... the hex will help to slow down the stripping phenomenon as it provides more "keying" depth for the axle into the plastic and only one dimension for the rim to move around the "key" (the axial one) but it only slows it down - the solution is new locknuts, regularly
Paul
Paul
11-17-2011 | 09:01 AM
#7528
my b4.1 has never broken an axle pin, but my 17.5 sc10 has broken 2, never again since i put on the jc hex conversion. however my 10.5 sc10 broke one even with the hexes, the worst part is that it was during a battle for 1st in the a main. i ordered the FT solid axle pins for both my sc10s so that never happens again, hopefully.
11-17-2011 | 09:22 AM
#7530
I really think that everyone is missing the tuning potentials of the hex setup, i.e. Track width adjustments. Let's leave the durability factor alone, as yes, it is a more durable setup and move on with the huge tuning option that they have allowed us to do now!
Carry on!
Carry on!