second one

Thanks, just double checking.

There is good and bad to both the long and short packs....
the short pack makes it react quicker yes, but most of the time that means it is harder to drive and more mistakes, it can be a bite more forgiving in a rough section.... The long one will have more corner speed on a track with more traction, more run time, more traction in some cases but can also act like swing weight once the car breaks loose... there is no right answer. Many of the locals have both on hand and it is more of how the traction is that day and is a final setup deal.

I use the 1st one on all my AE car's/trucks

Will try :P
It all depends. A lot of the FT guys (IE Theilke) are running their batteries way far forward. For somebody on ThunderbirdJunkie's level, the weight that far forward makes the car more reactive on initial steering, but actually lengthens the polar moment of inertia (do some reading) making it a little lazy in transient maneuvers (it steers awesome initially, but it's a bit oafish in switchbacks and chicanes) despite having awesome initial steering. Moving the pack back would help with both calming down the initial turn-in and the transient (left to right to left, etc) turns a little more doable.

ThunderbirdJunkie hasn't yet had much opportunity to play with the shorty pack, it's only got a few runs on it, but these are his initial impressions of it. Theilke's setup was ThunderbirdJunkie's baseline when he rebuilt his car with the +8 chassis and shorty pack (and brushless setup, lol, but that's a whole 'nuther story) lacked rear side bite and was really really touchy with the steering and had almost nothing on exit.
But you can also position the bulk of the weight further backward making it a little easier to drive. One thing that confused ThunderbirdJunkie about Theilke's setup in particular is the additional sticky weight so far back on the chassis, but the battery so far forward. Seems counter productive.

The other side of it, perhaps ThunderbirdJunkie simply doesn't drive the same as Theilke does, and has since started changing his setup accordingly.

Stupid end of the year holidays interfering with track time

Oh, and take all of this with a grain of salt.

You guys feel that stinging on you cheek, thats because T-Bird threw down the goods and just bit^h slapped you!

Joke's on you, ThunderbirdJukie has no idea what he said

Ha

Yup , kinda soft , more grip , but slower corner speed in compassion to Gold compound..

Same kinda result are you running 1 or v2?

I like the V2 for the extra corner speed it has compared to the standard V1 bar code tire .

We run both at Trcr with great results , but most are using the v2 .

Personally I feel its not the tread pattern but rather the compound on the v2 gold is softer than the v1 gold .

i know , maybe I'm wrong .

but , I can feel & smell the difference between the two....

the track is about 70degrees heat is always on when its cold outside, coldest it gets is 60degrees but not for long.

BITE is very nice med to high, always swept and clean during racing. Bk bars in pink are burned, gripped, wd40, gripped after every run to keep them soft but they wear out fast! but this is what all are doing. Bald seem to work well untill it gets colder in the place. Will try gold v2s on 2wd i have v1s. Green v2s may work if I work them a little bit. Will try during different conditions.

Quick question. I just bought the gear diff (and case) to experiment with.. Is the gear ratio the same as the ball diff? Also, do you all recommend using the Assoc black grease, AcerGoo sytnetic grease, or diff oil? The track is a very high bite, indoor clay that is very well maintained and now that it is winter, very cool inside. The current track config has a quad, a triple, 3 doubles, steps and a steep sharp hairpin. thanks

I'm gonna race on carpet so i switched the rear hubs of my B4.1 to the plastic 0* hubs.
Do i need to change the crush tube too? I think there is a grinding sound coming from within the hub, like something is rubbing on the bearings.

there were only 2 mains on Tuesday, weren't you there? i was shocked that i kept my round 1 tq and was certain i wouldnt win the main since i knew my teammates (#2, #3 and #6 finish) were definitely faster than me. nevertheless it was the most nerve-racking race i've ever done, my hands were shaking in the first 4 or 5 laps. it will probably be the one and only time i'll ever tq and win, my heart still races every time i think about it.

no, the golds i tried were V1. i was not gripping the tires back then though, just cleaning with water and simple green. i felt that the gold codes had more side bite than the pink bks. then someone yelled at me and told me to use gripped bks. once i started gripping them they had better side bite than the gold codes, so that's what ive been using since and haven't tried anything else.

yes it is the same gear ratio,

I use 3,000 wt gear diff oil.

I am hearing a few people locally that are running gear diff in their buggies are running 2 of the 4 small gears instead. Less rotating mass I am told.
I have not tested it yet. I don't feel like removing the tranny to do it till I need to rebuild it.