RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#8986
I hear the Barcodes are good tires.
I just got a RTR as well. I will be getting the +8mm chassis, since I will be switching everything over, should I get a new speed control, servo or anuything else? I will be doing shocks too and I guess a Ball Diff.
Is the stock speed control junk compared to aftermarket ones?
I just got a RTR as well. I will be getting the +8mm chassis, since I will be switching everything over, should I get a new speed control, servo or anuything else? I will be doing shocks too and I guess a Ball Diff.
Is the stock speed control junk compared to aftermarket ones?
#8987
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
I'm relatively new to RC. Started racing last fall. I just bought a B4.1 RTR used (4 races) from a young man that could not make it go straight. So far, I can't either
. I reset everything to "out of the box" specs. Rear tires are calbers. I'm racing on an indoor dirt track - very hard,clay surface with dust and silt. Its like racing on ice. I have the throttle turned all the way down and the esc to "very soft". I can not get the rear tires to hook up at all. Where to start? Everything is "out of the box". Any help would be greatly appreciated! 
. I reset everything to "out of the box" specs. Rear tires are calbers. I'm racing on an indoor dirt track - very hard,clay surface with dust and silt. Its like racing on ice. I have the throttle turned all the way down and the esc to "very soft". I can not get the rear tires to hook up at all. Where to start? Everything is "out of the box". Any help would be greatly appreciated! 
Remember, more laps (even slower ones) = more practice. Practice is the best tuning option on the planet.
#8988
I hear the Barcodes are good tires.
I just got a RTR as well. I will be getting the +8mm chassis, since I will be switching everything over, should I get a new speed control, servo or anuything else? I will be doing shocks too and I guess a Ball Diff.
Is the stock speed control junk compared to aftermarket ones?
I just got a RTR as well. I will be getting the +8mm chassis, since I will be switching everything over, should I get a new speed control, servo or anuything else? I will be doing shocks too and I guess a Ball Diff.
Is the stock speed control junk compared to aftermarket ones?
#8989
I'm relatively new to RC. Started racing last fall. I just bought a B4.1 RTR used (4 races) from a young man that could not make it go straight. So far, I can't either
. I reset everything to "out of the box" specs. Rear tires are calbers. I'm racing on an indoor dirt track - very hard,clay surface with dust and silt. Its like racing on ice. I have the throttle turned all the way down and the esc to "very soft". I can not get the rear tires to hook up at all. Where to start? Everything is "out of the box". Any help would be greatly appreciated! 
. I reset everything to "out of the box" specs. Rear tires are calbers. I'm racing on an indoor dirt track - very hard,clay surface with dust and silt. Its like racing on ice. I have the throttle turned all the way down and the esc to "very soft". I can not get the rear tires to hook up at all. Where to start? Everything is "out of the box". Any help would be greatly appreciated! 
#8991
Ohh
I forgot about the rtr being brushless, but still I believe that aftermarket ones are better. Tekin RS is very adjustable and very affordable considering there are others that are even more expensive
I forgot about the rtr being brushless, but still I believe that aftermarket ones are better. Tekin RS is very adjustable and very affordable considering there are others that are even more expensive
#8992
Is just as smooth as responsive as the lrp but with more brakes and tuning!
plus you can solder any wires to the tabs like tekin, much much better.
#8993
viper is just as tuneable, but with a convenient card that plugs in the on off switch. Preloaded profiles and custom profiles and useable.
Is just as smooth as responsive as the lrp but with more brakes and tuning!
plus you can solder any wires to the tabs like tekin, much much better.
Is just as smooth as responsive as the lrp but with more brakes and tuning!
plus you can solder any wires to the tabs like tekin, much much better.
#8994
#8996
viper is just as tuneable, but with a convenient card that plugs in the on off switch. Preloaded profiles and custom profiles and useable.
Is just as smooth as responsive as the lrp but with more brakes and tuning!
plus you can solder any wires to the tabs like tekin, much much better.
Is just as smooth as responsive as the lrp but with more brakes and tuning!
plus you can solder any wires to the tabs like tekin, much much better.
and look he has barcodes ! haha
#8998
I mean ya you can spend some time upgrading it and you can have even more fun building the car from scratch, which I find fun, but as I said, I would have spent half of the money I did if I would have just did the factory team kit to start with.
$.02
#8999
yeah i figured , oh well just money. cant take it with you when you die. lol . well i will just do it right this time , i dont think it will have any of the stocks parts geez maybe just give to my brother and start over
#9000
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
dont dump a ton into it. Just replace what you break and wear out. run the thing until it dies and then get a FT car. Look at it this way, you will spend the first couple months bashing your car because you arent landing jumps right or cant control wheel spin etc etc..... at least that means if you do it all winter, in the summer you get a FT car that will be fresh and you will already know how to set it up and how it will react. Then you keep the other car as a basher or you sell it to a guy who needs something for his kid to run in the novice class




