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Old 12-28-2011 | 05:25 PM
  #8971  
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There, I'm tired of seeing everyone ask what part numbers you need, now just look for my signature LOL
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Old 12-28-2011 | 05:43 PM
  #8972  
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Does anyone have the newest setups from the Spektrum race at Trackside this month? I know some were running the shorty packs and some on long packs but I am curious to see what people were running with all the new parts.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 05:47 PM
  #8973  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
RPM spring collar #70327
that ones yellow, not every store sells yellow... for black its 70322
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Old 12-28-2011 | 06:04 PM
  #8974  
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I was at the last race just before the Spektrum race and I think most of the AE guys were running AE springs i the back and Kyosho springs up front.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 06:29 PM
  #8975  
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Originally Posted by Jake S
that ones yellow, not every store sells yellow... for black its 70322
corrected. thanks for pointing that out.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 06:44 PM
  #8976  
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Traxxas 3768 works better than the 22 spring cup. They fit tighter on the shock end, and comes with the upper and lower spring retainers but it comes with two so u will need two of them. They r 3.00 ea.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 09:39 PM
  #8977  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
Its kinda hard for me to believe these holes help with consistency/heat on a 1/10 electric vehicle. Do I think its slightly less rotating mass, yes. I'm just a little skeptical on this one I guess...
x2
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
to be honest, me too. but realistically, they are less than 20 bucks and what else am i gonna spend that money on...... I'm not buying springs and brushes for motors any more LOL
Remember that those vented slipper plates came out with the SC10 4x4, and it has a tendency to get the slipper REALLY hot with big horsepower.
Originally Posted by Mini-Mod
It actually makes quite a bit of a difference. The holes help make the whole slipper like a fan and helps keep the slipper cooler if that's a good example. You should never really have slipper heating problems unless you are in high heat. It especially helps in 4 wheel.
In 4wheel maybe, but we aren't discussing 4wheelers.
Originally Posted by Cappy
No Losi Junk on my AE.. I'll wait till AE comes out with bigger springs
So you should get rid of all the Losi-inspired improvements that came on the B4.1FT and the OG B4.

Like the dual disk slipper, the big fat V2 slipper spring, the rear t-plate that mimics the BK2's rear pivot block, the Losi XXX-offset wheels in the rear...

Bear in mind that Gil Jr had a hand in the RC10, so what you should really do is just bust out that Tamiya Rough Rider and race IT in 2w mod and see how you do.

If we got rid of everything in RC racing that the Losis have spearheaded, then we would still be racing Tamiya bathtub plastic chassis cars.
Originally Posted by LD50
Stupid question perhaps, but why don't buggies have a bumper at the front - one that would prevent frontal impacts on the wheels?

Is it a rules thing, or that it just wouldn't look buggyish

Because a bumper that sticks out past the wheels digs in on the faces of jumps and prevents a smooth landing if you're a little ass-high.
Originally Posted by bobbymbx5
Traxxas 3768 works better than the 22 spring cup. They fit tighter on the shock end, and comes with the upper and lower spring retainers but it comes with two so u will need two of them. They r 3.00 ea.
ThunderbirdJunkie has the Traxxas upper spring seats with the TLR 22 spring cups. The spring cups are shorter and help with ride height adjustments so you don't have the adjustment collars all the way up on the front.
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Old 12-28-2011 | 11:12 PM
  #8978  
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Originally Posted by bobbymbx5
Traxxas 3768 works better than the 22 spring cup.
+1 to that. Plus I was not able to find the RPM's anywhere all out of stock and can't get them fast enough
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Old 12-29-2011 | 05:40 AM
  #8979  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie

Bear in mind that Gil Jr had a hand in the RC10

If we got rid of everything in RC racing that the Losis have spearheaded, then we would still be racing Tamiya bathtub plastic chassis cars.
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Old 12-29-2011 | 06:14 AM
  #8980  
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All this spring collar talk...



http://www.ghea.se/produkt.php?fid=a..._esp_1_pid=164

I haven't tried BB springs yet, still using Brent's old +8 setup, front KYO silvers and rear AE greens.
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Old 12-29-2011 | 07:44 AM
  #8981  
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Hopefully someone will make them here in the states. I mean the 125 SEK
translates to roughly 18.00 but gotta figure international shipping will be alot
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Old 12-29-2011 | 07:51 AM
  #8982  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Hopefully someone will make them here in the states. I mean the 125 SEK
translates to roughly 18.00 but gotta figure international shipping will be alot
doesnt seem that much, it says 50 SEK for shipping
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Old 12-29-2011 | 08:03 AM
  #8983  
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Originally Posted by Asharus
doesnt seem that much, it says 50 SEK for shipping
so what 20 ish bucks total? when the little plastics ones that work cost 6
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Old 12-29-2011 | 08:08 AM
  #8984  
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ive seen people use the plastic rpm ones at my track and it looks sloppy
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Old 12-29-2011 | 08:44 AM
  #8985  
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I'm relatively new to RC. Started racing last fall. I just bought a B4.1 RTR used (4 races) from a young man that could not make it go straight. So far, I can't either. I reset everything to "out of the box" specs. Rear tires are calbers. I'm racing on an indoor dirt track - very hard,clay surface with dust and silt. Its like racing on ice. I have the throttle turned all the way down and the esc to "very soft". I can not get the rear tires to hook up at all. Where to start? Everything is "out of the box". Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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