440 is a little smaller than 3mm, the little nubs that key to the brace might come off if you go that route. If the little nubs stay on it will give more support to any size screw you are putting on there plus it keys the brace to the bulk head. I want to try some 2.5mm screws which should be slightly bigger than the stock 2/56 screws.

Thanks for the tip.
Taking my #55 drilled pistons and green springs to the prcr tomorrow for testing...
Any news on the losi big bore spring setup?
Thanks,
-Tommy

What are these #55 pistons that people talk about?

Taking a #3 and drilling it out with a #55 bit in the same holes. Makes the piston between the #2 and #3 closer to a #3 it seems tho

Thanks

hey guys i just got a tekin 10.5 motor, i saw on the motor can timmimg marks, how does tekin mark the endbell to adjust timming, cause the best i can tell its sitting between 15-18 degree of timming, i do not have a hot wire yet.

can anyone help

there is just a notch on the plastic, and all you do is line that up with whatever defree of timing you prefer.

cool, i was not sure, this is my first 1/10 system and buggy in 10 years

no one can

I agree with the tuning potential of hexes... then again 80% of the people I see at the tracks I run at can't run a lap without crashing the car or missing 5 apexes in a row... most AE shocks I've seen aren't filled and/or maintained properly ("what? you mean I have to put oil and change o-rings in this thing on a regular basis? Are you crazy??")... a lot of racers still tighten the shock mounts like if there was no tomorrow, hence binding the whole suspension... so many people can't glue tires on rims right to save their lives... so, yes, tuning track width to the mm to get more or less grip on one end of the car is great, but this certainly wasn't a priority for most. Hexes certainly don't hurt as long as you can afford them as well as changing all your stock of wheels at once, but there are soooooo many things to do before that! My candid take on this is that it's 99% marketing, 1% performance/reliability

Paul

And now, something completely different

All these setup sheets with weight IN the rear arms... (i) where do they put it and (ii) I just don't get the physics of it... why in the arms rather than on the chassis, as this increases unsprung mass?

Cheers
Paul

I actually worked on this yesterday evening as I'm installing a +8 chassis on my ride... M3 is going to be a super super tight fit and hard to tap. The little nibs will shatter... 4-40 is pretty darn close. Neither screw heads fit in the recess in the alum brace though and I didn't feel like re-boring it so I used 2.5mm screws in a new bulkhead and the old-school carbon brace (which I was told provides more front bite... then again, like the hexes, I doubt am skilled enough to feel it)

Paul

the weight is in the rear, in front of the diff. u take 4 pieces of lead and stick it under the #9564= breace. i took 2 pieces and glued together and put the other 2 pieces, use double sided tape to side, 1 on each side, u might have to cut the lead a bit to fit. i will get pics later this sunday.

Someone on here might have pics of this. i try to find it on the team site,

Thanks - I agree on the 17g or so "ballast" under the rear brace but I still don't understand the stuff in the triangles. Here's a copy/paste of Cav's Vasaa setup:

"1/2 oz weight behind transmission; 1/4 oz in each rear triangle;"

It's the "in each rear triangle" that I don't get. Am I missing something?

Cheers
Paul

I gave the Losi big springs a try yesterday , but did not have perhaps the best combo and gave up .
My teammates were really ribbing me tonight for not keeping them on...

They still insist using them and who am I to argue bout
their faster lap times ...

So more testing for me before , or rather next week before the shop gets the correct springs weights in stock ....