I would rather use a 3 mm allen (ball tip preferred) to unscrew the ball off from the tip on the linkage out from the 1.5 mm set screw. So after detaching the linkage, the set screw still remains on the arms.

The reasons for me to do this is as follows;

Firstly, Hudy does not make ball tip 1.5 mm which makes it difficult to access the set screw at an angle. Secondly, screwing and unscrewing the 1.5 mm set screw into and out of the plastic arm may loosen and weaken the threading. My 2 cents.

aaaahhhh!! just finished, my arms hurt but finally fished

It feels a little "rigid" but I think that with a few tanks it will set it self.

I'm afraid changing to the 909518 Centax II clutch spring may make the situation worse. You could take even longer for the engine to engage the clutch ! The reason is that the 909518 Centax II clutch spring (1.8 mm diameter) is harder than the 6586 stock spring (1.7 mm diameter).

What I suggest is to loosen the Centax pre-adjusting nut (6583) until you get a decent clutch engagement without clutch slippage or without the engine revving too high. The 1.0 mm setting can be a little too much for some engines to engage the clutch.

Note that you do not have to take off the clutch bell to be able to access the Centax pre-adjusting nut. You can adjust it externally by inserting a 1.5 mm allen into one of the 2 holes on the clutch bell and catching one of the 2 grooves on the pre-adjusting nut.

Once that is done and the pre-adjusting nut held firmly externally by the 1.5 mm allen, turn the flywheel CLOCKWISE to loosen the pre-adjusting nut to get earlier engagement and ANTICLOCKWISE on the flywheel to tighten the pre-adjusting nut to get a later clutch engagement. You want to turn the flywheel CLOCKWISE.

In what way? The arms not moving up and down properly?

If you have the time, you can put one or two drops of silicone shock oil or put some graphite grease on the pivot pins so that you get a smoother action. Else, like what you say, you can let the parts settle down properly by running a few tanks.

The final thing for you to do is PICTURES !

Master would you consider changing to NTC3 then we can both go bite crash1

No. NEVER ! That would be sacrilegious !

Can't stand us biting you eh?

Come on over to the dark side, Cow Buster - it feels gooooood!

If the suspension arms aren't moving as freely as they should, check out the FAQ, there is a section which deals with this. It tells you how to loosen and re-tighten some screws to ensure the fit is ok.

Cheers, Mark.

Me, too - hey you get up late!!!



A young friend, no doubt!

Cow buster, you wanna bust some cows, coz then you NEED to move to the darkseid and get yourself a snake!!! anything else just seems slow... the futyre is now... life is a journey... Snake bites can be venomous and detrimental to your health... if you cant beat 'em, join 'em...


DARKSIDE

Ill take some picture tomorrow. Rigid not when going up and down that feels ok,its jut the feeling of if, or may be I have some drag with the brake pads, dont know but I am almost sure that with a little use it will settle down.
It is so different form the r40 and in so many ways. First the plastic looks and feels better, there is no slop, and man you can set up almost everything in this car, compared with my other car this one does feel and look like a pro car. (If anyone from the r40 thread read this please go on with your lives, this is only my opinion no bash intended)

thanks!

Thanks for the sway bar tips guys! Thats what I thought, just wanted to make sure. One more thing, how do you get the two ends on the front sway dead center? Or does it not matter if one side is longer than the other? Thanks.
One more thing, how much ground clearance do you give your bodies? I like the top of my wheels to be right below the top of the opening on the wheel well. What do you guys usually do for clearance?

congrats on your wise choice,you wont regret it. With my serpent i have drop my lap times by almost a full second than the shumacher r12 that i used to run,same engine on both cars!