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Old 03-15-2004, 10:43 PM   #6031
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Avoid to pop the balls out of (plastic) ball end, I just release the 1.5 set screw in rear.
I would rather use a 3 mm allen (ball tip preferred) to unscrew the ball off from the tip on the linkage out from the 1.5 mm set screw. So after detaching the linkage, the set screw still remains on the arms.

The reasons for me to do this is as follows;

Firstly, Hudy does not make ball tip 1.5 mm which makes it difficult to access the set screw at an angle. Secondly, screwing and unscrewing the 1.5 mm set screw into and out of the plastic arm may loosen and weaken the threading. My 2 cents.

Last edited by InitialD; 03-15-2004 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:46 PM   #6032
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aaaahhhh!! just finished, my arms hurt but finally fished
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:53 PM   #6033
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It feels a little "rigid" but I think that with a few tanks it will set it self.
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:55 PM   #6034
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Originally posted by Profoxcg
hey guys my car takes forever to take off.. I have to rev it up pretty hi.. I was told to use spring #909518 and will solve my problem.. currently I have a distance of .5mm on the clutch nut.

or should i stay with the normal spring that came in the kit?

which one is softer? i want my car to be very responsive... HELP HELP PLEASE
I'm afraid changing to the 909518 Centax II clutch spring may make the situation worse. You could take even longer for the engine to engage the clutch ! The reason is that the 909518 Centax II clutch spring (1.8 mm diameter) is harder than the 6586 stock spring (1.7 mm diameter).

What I suggest is to loosen the Centax pre-adjusting nut (6583) until you get a decent clutch engagement without clutch slippage or without the engine revving too high. The 1.0 mm setting can be a little too much for some engines to engage the clutch.

Note that you do not have to take off the clutch bell to be able to access the Centax pre-adjusting nut. You can adjust it externally by inserting a 1.5 mm allen into one of the 2 holes on the clutch bell and catching one of the 2 grooves on the pre-adjusting nut.

Once that is done and the pre-adjusting nut held firmly externally by the 1.5 mm allen, turn the flywheel CLOCKWISE to loosen the pre-adjusting nut to get earlier engagement and ANTICLOCKWISE on the flywheel to tighten the pre-adjusting nut to get a later clutch engagement. You want to turn the flywheel CLOCKWISE.
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:57 PM   #6035
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Quote:
Originally posted by rodrigo1508
It feels a little "rigid" but I think that with a few tanks it will set it self.
In what way? The arms not moving up and down properly?

If you have the time, you can put one or two drops of silicone shock oil or put some graphite grease on the pivot pins so that you get a smoother action. Else, like what you say, you can let the parts settle down properly by running a few tanks.

The final thing for you to do is PICTURES !
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:58 PM   #6036
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I'm afraid changing to the 909518 Centax II clutch spring may make the situation worse. You could take even longer for the engine to engage the clutch ! The reason is that the 909518 Centax II clutch spring (1.8 mm diameter) is harder than the 6586 stock spring (1.7 mm diameter).

What I suggest is to loosen the Centax pre-adjusting nut (6583) until you get a decent clutch engagement without clutch slippage or without the engine revving too high. The 1.0 mm setting can be a little too much for some engines to engage the clutch.

Note that you do not have to take off the clutch bell to be able to access the Centax pre-adjusting nut. You can adjust it externally by inserting a 1.5 mm allen into one of the 2 holes on the clutch bell and catching one of the 2 grooves on the pre-adjusting nut.

Once that is done and the pre-adjusting nut held firmly externally by the 1.5 mm allen, turn the flywheel CLOCKWISE to loosen the pre-adjusting nut to get earlier engagement and ANTICLOCKWISE on the flywheel to tighten the pre-adjusting nut to get a later clutch engagement. You want to turn the flywheel CLOCKWISE.
Master would you consider changing to NTC3 then we can both go bite crash1
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:04 PM   #6037
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Quote:
Originally posted by cow buster
Master would you consider changing to NTC3 then we can both go bite crash1
No. NEVER ! That would be sacrilegious !

Can't stand us biting you eh?
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:07 PM   #6038
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Quote:
Originally posted by cow buster
Master would you consider changing to NTC3 then we can both go bite crash1
Come on over to the dark side, Cow Buster - it feels gooooood!
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:09 PM   #6039
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Quote:
Originally posted by rodrigo1508
It feels a little "rigid" but I think that with a few tanks it will set it self.
If the suspension arms aren't moving as freely as they should, check out the FAQ, there is a section which deals with this. It tells you how to loosen and re-tighten some screws to ensure the fit is ok.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:11 PM   #6040
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Default Re: Re: Re: Centax3 mod

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Just woke up !
Me, too - hey you get up late!!!



Quote:
Mark, the mods were partly from "a little help from my friends" (in the same tune as Beatles' song) !
A young friend, no doubt!
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:12 PM   #6041
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Cow buster, you wanna bust some cows, coz then you NEED to move to the darkseid and get yourself a snake!!! anything else just seems slow... the futyre is now... life is a journey... Snake bites can be venomous and detrimental to your health... if you cant beat 'em, join 'em...


DARKSIDE
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:13 PM   #6042
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Ill take some picture tomorrow. Rigid not when going up and down that feels ok,its jut the feeling of if, or may be I have some drag with the brake pads, dont know but I am almost sure that with a little use it will settle down.
It is so different form the r40 and in so many ways. First the plastic looks and feels better, there is no slop, and man you can set up almost everything in this car, compared with my other car this one does feel and look like a pro car. (If anyone from the r40 thread read this please go on with your lives, this is only my opinion no bash intended)
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:13 PM   #6043
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Congrats Macros.S710 ! You kick ass !
thanks!
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:17 PM   #6044
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Thanks for the sway bar tips guys! Thats what I thought, just wanted to make sure. One more thing, how do you get the two ends on the front sway dead center? Or does it not matter if one side is longer than the other? Thanks.
One more thing, how much ground clearance do you give your bodies? I like the top of my wheels to be right below the top of the opening on the wheel well. What do you guys usually do for clearance?
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:20 PM   #6045
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Quote:
Originally posted by rodrigo1508
Ill take some picture tomorrow. Rigid not when going up and down that feels ok,its jut the feeling of if, or may be I have some drag with the brake pads, dont know but I am almost sure that with a little use it will settle down.
It is so different form the r40 and in so many ways. First the plastic looks and feels better, there is no slop, and man you can set up almost everything in this car, compared with my other car this one does feel and look like a pro car. (If anyone from the r40 thread read this please go on with your lives, this is only my opinion no bash intended)
congrats on your wise choice,you wont regret it. With my serpent i have drop my lap times by almost a full second than the shumacher r12 that i used to run,same engine on both cars!
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