Team Magic E4 Thread
#3286
I upgraded the orginal E4 to a single steering bell crank and they are way a lot better. I just can't get the E4 RS 09' to handle like the orginal E4 probably because of front and back balance issue that I have stated above the motor was move few mm towards the front which makes the car to over steer and no rear end traction.
#3288
I am running in 13.5 and the drive train was not the issue. It's probably because this was RROC and most of the other drivers were better (faster) than me. I couldn't find the right motor/gearing setup till the last day and didn't have the front end grip that I would have liked. Maybe it was my driving.
The car worked well it just didn't respond like most of the other cars.
I made a lot of changes that should have induced mad oversteer but the car pretty much felt the same after each change. Maybe I needed the 3.0mm chassis instead of the stock '09' chassis. My E4C1 seems to have more steering and perhaps it's because of the stiffer chassis plate.
Regarding the Batteries, I have 2mm spacing on my top deck and with the use of the tray that I make, I have room to spare with my Fantom 5200/50c LiPo. My trays will yield more depth and all around space for most lipo hard case packs. The cavity in the tray is 138x47mm and has sharper radius in the corners allowing the more square packs to fit with no problem.
Of course some parts have been slightly modified like the mid belt bearing block and a little off of the rear tray mount but that's about it. The '09' car has a bit more room to work with but there should be no problem getting a 25mm high LiPo to fit. The stock tray sets the battery high in the chassis and this is wasted space. That's why I decided to design a better tray. the bottom is only 1.5mm thick vs the 3mm of the stock one. It's also relieved to allow packs with humps to sit as low as possible.
Kim, we can work on your setup at the next race. I'm sure we can get it sorted out. We should have talked to Dave at the RROC as he definately knows how to set the '09' car up for mod.
The car worked well it just didn't respond like most of the other cars.I made a lot of changes that should have induced mad oversteer but the car pretty much felt the same after each change. Maybe I needed the 3.0mm chassis instead of the stock '09' chassis. My E4C1 seems to have more steering and perhaps it's because of the stiffer chassis plate.
Regarding the Batteries, I have 2mm spacing on my top deck and with the use of the tray that I make, I have room to spare with my Fantom 5200/50c LiPo. My trays will yield more depth and all around space for most lipo hard case packs. The cavity in the tray is 138x47mm and has sharper radius in the corners allowing the more square packs to fit with no problem.
Of course some parts have been slightly modified like the mid belt bearing block and a little off of the rear tray mount but that's about it. The '09' car has a bit more room to work with but there should be no problem getting a 25mm high LiPo to fit. The stock tray sets the battery high in the chassis and this is wasted space. That's why I decided to design a better tray. the bottom is only 1.5mm thick vs the 3mm of the stock one. It's also relieved to allow packs with humps to sit as low as possible.
Kim, we can work on your setup at the next race. I'm sure we can get it sorted out. We should have talked to Dave at the RROC as he definately knows how to set the '09' car up for mod.
#3289
Rick,
Bring me one of the battery tray if you will have one available next race. In regards to setup I'm putting my orginal E4 back together for MOD for next race but if MOD don't pick up next race I will go to 17.5 that's the biggest class we have right now.
Bring me one of the battery tray if you will have one available next race. In regards to setup I'm putting my orginal E4 back together for MOD for next race but if MOD don't pick up next race I will go to 17.5 that's the biggest class we have right now.
#3290

I will have a tray for you at the next race.
#3295
The best wheel to use are the dish rims and preferably made of some durable material that IS NOT HARD. I've had some dish wheels made of hard plastic that shatterred as soon as it touched anything.
In fact nowadays, the choice of rims is no longer an issue because most people like me buy the premounted Sorex or equal and they're all mounted on some type of dish wheel that will fit the E4 with no problems.
#3296
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 277
You picked the worst wheels of them all on your first pick. To answer your question, ANYTHING OTHER THAN TAMIYA! The reason for the binding is that the Tamiyas are most likely some kind of spoke wheel. Tamiya wheels are heavily gussetted on the spokes and hence its the spoke gussets that is binding on your hubs.
The best wheel to use are the dish rims and preferably made of some durable material that IS NOT HARD. I've had some dish wheels made of hard plastic that shatterred as soon as it touched anything.
In fact nowadays, the choice of rims is no longer an issue because most people like me buy the premounted Sorex or equal and they're all mounted on some type of dish wheel that will fit the E4 with no problems.
The best wheel to use are the dish rims and preferably made of some durable material that IS NOT HARD. I've had some dish wheels made of hard plastic that shatterred as soon as it touched anything.
In fact nowadays, the choice of rims is no longer an issue because most people like me buy the premounted Sorex or equal and they're all mounted on some type of dish wheel that will fit the E4 with no problems.
Robert
#3297

I'm sure they are cheaper than the Sorex as well.
#3298





