R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-03-2009, 12:01 AM   #2536
Tech Elite
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Did you check the front points of your rear suspension points??
Those you can change 2.
Mine E4FS has 3 toe in at the rear but that is because i use the K-factory rear bearing hubs.

cheers Roy


Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd View Post
Has anyone checked their rear toe in on one of the numberous gauges on the market? I have the arrows both going out in the rear that should give me the most rear toe in at 2.5 on my E4FS and the gauges are only showing about 1 degree rear toe in. Front both arrows are pointing in so I should have 1.5mm of front arm sweep.

2nd question is I just looked at the car and looking to raise my roll centers in the front 1mm. I see the front a arm mount attaches to the bulkhead but it looks like it has a 2ns screw hole in it as if I do use 1mm spacers I would use the 2nd set of holes (at least on the front). Not sure since I never took the car fully apart yet and the directions are not clear on that part.
__________________
l===/o\===l
[_]-###-[_] V-link proto type Pro10,JKMR P235-SE Pro10
P235-VL Pro10 comming soon
Sponsered by me,myself and i :)
Pro10noob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 07:15 AM   #2537
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,143
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Did you check the front points of your rear suspension points??
Those you can change 2.
Mine E4FS has 3 toe in at the rear but that is because i use the K-factory rear bearing hubs.

cheers Roy
Don't know I could change anything their except for maybe raising the roll center. Guess I will have to take a look at that tonight. I only ever took the rear toe block off but never anything more than that. So does it change like the back toe plate with those two inserts? You can put them in or out like the rear ones? If that is the case I see know why my toe in is showing only one degree of rear toe. I did look at the blow up the car and see it does have those same blocks for the front of the rear arm but it looks like it only goes up or down (to raise the roll center but not change the toe at all in the front of the rear arm?) I could easily be wrong on this.

I guess tonight I will be tearing a little more off the car as it seems I'm missing out on using some adjustments the car has.

Funny when I had all the gauges hooked up on the car it showed no more than 1 degree of rear toe in. Looks like I need to check out that part your telling me about. Guess I'm going to learn something new tonight about my TM E4.
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005) Just awesome products
Bumps & Jumps RC (Great Indoor facility for offroad and oval)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC)
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around)
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 08:09 AM   #2538
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Germany
Posts: 180
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

hi

how will it change, if the arrows going up or down in the front of my rear suspension?
SebO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 08:31 AM   #2539
Tech Elite
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

If the arrows only show up or down then the only thing you can change is the rear caster then
Hmmmm on my E4RS i have deffo 2.5 toe in at the rear and on my E4FS i have 3 toe in but that is because i have the K-factory rear bearing hubs.
Perhaps there are some parts different between those 2 cars???
Update...Parts are te same so both cars have the same adjustment futures on the rear toe in
@Wyd you should get 2.5 toe in with that setting as it is per standard 1.5

cheers Roy

Quote:
Originally Posted by SebO View Post
hi

how will it change, if the arrows going up or down in the front of my rear suspension?
__________________
l===/o\===l
[_]-###-[_] V-link proto type Pro10,JKMR P235-SE Pro10
P235-VL Pro10 comming soon
Sponsered by me,myself and i :)
Pro10noob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 10:36 AM   #2540
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Chicago Illinois USA
Posts: 9,107
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Solara Send a message via AIM to Solara
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Hi guys, i need a little help here ...

Last race where i debuted with the E4 and got 4th place, we used this layout :

Now, this weekend i have another race on same track, but the new layout its :

Last race, i used 3.68 FDR on 13.5 brushless and it was almost perfect, good low end power and enough speed on the straight to be on par with 95% of the fastest guys.

Now, for this new layout you would use the same ?, or would be good to test some different ?, maybe a little higher FDR as this layout does not have long straight sections ? (right now im on 38T Pinion + 68T spur, maybe going to 70T spur would be better ?).

thanks in advance, all opiniones welcome !!

cya,

Pato Concha
Southamerica
Use the same final drive and run the new layout for 2-3 minutes and temp the motor...I've never adjust my FDR because of the layout, I adjust my FDR to the motor TEMP first...then, I will determine I should gear up or down because of the layout...

Your newer layout is more open (less technical) , so if you have room to gear up (bigger pinion) go for it...
Solara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 10:37 AM   #2541
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,143
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
If the arrows only show up or down then the only thing you can change is the rear caster then
Hmmmm on my E4RS i have deffo 2.5 toe in at the rear and on my E4FS i have 3 toe in but that is because i have the K-factory rear bearing hubs.
Perhaps there are some parts different between those 2 cars???
Update...Parts are te same so both cars have the same adjustment futures on the rear toe in
@Wyd you should get 2.5 toe in with that setting as it is per standard 1.5

cheers Roy
As soon as I get off work I will be working on my car. I know I should have 2.5 as the setting I have on the rear now but I have two different sets of gauges and both show right at abotu 1 degree of rear toe. I have the Wolf Hobbies alum rear hubs but those have 0 toe built in like the stock hubs. I will mess with it as soon as I can. You have my interest peaked on this.

Funny thing the tow showed the same with the stock plastic rear hubs as well. I will get her checked out asap.

Not complaining as my car is glued at are high bite track but if I get to a slippery surfance I will need to get to at least the 2.5 rear toe.
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005) Just awesome products
Bumps & Jumps RC (Great Indoor facility for offroad and oval)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC)
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around)
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 10:37 AM   #2542
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Chicago Illinois USA
Posts: 9,107
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Solara Send a message via AIM to Solara
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Anyone knows where can i buy firmer sway bars for the E4RS2009 ?, usually im a no-bar racer, but i noted and felt the bar effect on my E4, im not using the front, only rear, and its great, but th bar effect its too soft and i want to try a firmer one,

thanks,

Pato Concha
Southamerica
Isn't it K-Factory has a beefier sway bar kits for E4? I know I used one for my foam E4
Solara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 04:14 PM   #2543
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,143
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Ok I figured out the rear toe in thing. Apparently the Wolf Hobies aluminum rear hubs have a left and right side to them. The hubs where marked with a L and R on them via marker. I put them on as marked and never thought twice about it. I did checkit on the gauges and it always showed 1 degree even with the toe block being set at 2.5.

So long story short after tearing the rear of the car apart for what ever reason I rotated the rear hubs. I immediately seen the differance but I checked on the gauges and it was 2.5 rear toe per side. So I took of the L&R and put new labeling on them for Left and right. Problem now solved except I have been use to running 1 degree of rear toe for the last 2 weeks. I'm going to try 2.5 but if I don't like it I can go to 1.5 or put on my K Fatory rear block and go to 1.0 if I need to.

It was nice to tear the car down some to see what is going on with it. Really will help me if I want to change the rear and front roll centers now that I see how its done.
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005) Just awesome products
Bumps & Jumps RC (Great Indoor facility for offroad and oval)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC)
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around)
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2009, 10:07 AM   #2544
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Russia / Moscow
Posts: 14
Default

I have LRP TC and Trinity Duo 10.5 BL
In XRAY I have had FDR = 5.49 for this motor.
In E4RS i have 64P with 110T
Could I use this FDR for E4RS?
If I right understand I could use 41,42,43 pinion, but they big (I think).
Can you recommend me spur and pinion?

What FDR do you use for 10.5 BL?
crius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2009, 11:49 AM   #2545
Tech Elite
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Depends on what track your driving.
As for the Xray FDR i think it's a short tech track.
If that FDR is ok then you can use it on the E4RS 2
With a 110 spur and a 41 pinion u get a FDR of 5.52.
If you go with a higher pinion your FDR will be lower.
If you go for 48dp spur you can use the 80 spur gear and a 31 pinion and then you get 5.49 FDR.
It all depends on what track you drive on.
I my self drive with a FDR between 4.24 and 4.36 but that depends on what motor i use.

cheers Roy


Quote:
Originally Posted by crius View Post
I have LRP TC and Trinity Duo 10.5 BL
In XRAY I have had FDR = 5.49 for this motor.
In E4RS i have 64P with 110T
Could I use this FDR for E4RS?
If I right understand I could use 41,42,43 pinion, but they big (I think).
Can you recommend me spur and pinion?

What FDR do you use for 10.5 BL?
__________________
l===/o\===l
[_]-###-[_] V-link proto type Pro10,JKMR P235-SE Pro10
P235-VL Pro10 comming soon
Sponsered by me,myself and i :)
Pro10noob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2009, 02:17 PM   #2546
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Russia / Moscow
Posts: 14
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Depends on what track your driving.
As for the Xray FDR i think it's a short tech track.
If that FDR is ok then you can use it on the E4RS 2
With a 110 spur and a 41 pinion u get a FDR of 5.52.
If you go with a higher pinion your FDR will be lower.
If you go for 48dp spur you can use the 80 spur gear and a 31 pinion and then you get 5.49 FDR.
It all depends on what track you drive on.
I my self drive with a FDR between 4.24 and 4.36 but that depends on what motor i use.

cheers Roy
I`m understand it, but I`m worry about size of 41T pinion. If it very big I`m don`t fit my motor...
May be I could try spur 88T and pinion 33T?
crius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2009, 04:41 PM   #2547
Tech Elite
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

That would also give a 5.49 FDR so that will do
88/33x2.0588=5.490133333333

cheers Roy


Quote:
Originally Posted by crius View Post
I`m understand it, but I`m worry about size of 41T pinion. If it very big I`m don`t fit my motor...
May be I could try spur 88T and pinion 33T?
__________________
l===/o\===l
[_]-###-[_] V-link proto type Pro10,JKMR P235-SE Pro10
P235-VL Pro10 comming soon
Sponsered by me,myself and i :)
Pro10noob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2009, 09:45 PM   #2548
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,143
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crius View Post
I`m understand it, but I`m worry about size of 41T pinion. If it very big I`m don`t fit my motor...
May be I could try spur 88T and pinion 33T?
Once you get the motor in your car you can then mess with geting the gearing you need. WIth the motor in your car you will be able to see how much room you have for the motor to move and then you will be able to change the gears as needed to get the final drive ratio your looking for.
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005) Just awesome products
Bumps & Jumps RC (Great Indoor facility for offroad and oval)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC)
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around)
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2009, 02:47 AM   #2549
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,143
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Well after a long practice session on Friday and thru most of racing Saturday my E4 handled pretty bad. After doing everything I could the car just had too much steering and would traction roll. After all my struggles I simply put the 3 degree caster blocks back on and problem completely solved and the car understeered. I just need to change my car back to the way I had it so I could get my steering back. A learning experiance for sure with this car. I never had any touring car act like this when using 6 degree caster blocks. Car just had massive steering in the middle of the corner and exiting the corner.

Overall though got the car dialed in and learned alot this weekend.
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005) Just awesome products
Bumps & Jumps RC (Great Indoor facility for offroad and oval)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC)
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around)
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2009, 05:26 AM   #2550
Tech Elite
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Wyd if you have that problem again try to shorten you rear turnbuckles and take the inner point on your rear hub and put a 3 mm spacer on the bulkhead side.
This will get your car really smooth and you can slam the power on exiting corners.
Had a similar problem and did this and the car is very solid on the back side now.
I am not very font of the 6 degree casterblocks as they tend to give way to much steering where i race and what ever you do you won't get the rear to get a grip with that.
If i want a smooth rear end with the 6 degree caster blocks then i have to take very soft tires on the rear but i smoke them after a minute or 2 and all traction is gone.
Don't know if you use the sway bars??
If so try to remove the rear one and see what happends when using the 6 degree casterblocks.
When using the 3 degree casterblocks and you don't have have enough steering ad a thicker swaybar at the rear or remove the front one.
Hope this will help you.

cheers Roy




Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd View Post
Well after a long practice session on Friday and thru most of racing Saturday my E4 handled pretty bad. After doing everything I could the car just had too much steering and would traction roll. After all my struggles I simply put the 3 degree caster blocks back on and problem completely solved and the car understeered. I just need to change my car back to the way I had it so I could get my steering back. A learning experiance for sure with this car. I never had any touring car act like this when using 6 degree caster blocks. Car just had massive steering in the middle of the corner and exiting the corner.

Overall though got the car dialed in and learned alot this weekend.
__________________
l===/o\===l
[_]-###-[_] V-link proto type Pro10,JKMR P235-SE Pro10
P235-VL Pro10 comming soon
Sponsered by me,myself and i :)
Pro10noob is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
team magic m1b pitdog Nitro Off-Road 447 04-30-2013 09:17 AM
FS: Team Magic G4 - LRP Z12R Team Spec 2 - Add RX/TX LogiK Australia For Sale/Trade 1 08-03-2007 02:00 AM
Brian Berry Joins Team Phenix/Team Magic Motorman Nitro On-Road 27 03-07-2006 05:51 AM
Team Magic G4 J_Longbrake R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 10-07-2004 07:56 PM
Team Magic G4 "Black Magic" tennessee Nitro On-Road 32 04-20-2003 11:40 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:13 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net