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Old 08-17-2012, 12:22 AM   #4036
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nice prelim. though i agree that changing the placement of the crap on the car defeats the purpose a little. all i would do is raise the front center pully up to top deck height, and put the dual bellcrank where the pully used to be on main chassis level. or a dual bellcrank from another car that allows sideways servo placement.

i dont have your cad skills, hard to explain, unless i were to maybe take a pic of my e4 will proposed equipement layout? if shorty pack is a main design aspect, then you have lots of room for steering by moving the pully.
I know what you mean, valk.
Basically swapping the pulley block with the steering assembly.
I could probably do that with a new top deck and different belts.
I'll look at that...too.
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:18 AM   #4037
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nice prelim. though i agree that changing the placement of the crap on the car defeats the purpose a little. all i would do is raise the front center pully up to top deck height, and put the dual bellcrank where the pully used to be on main chassis level. or a dual bellcrank from another car that allows sideways servo placement.

i dont have your cad skills, hard to explain, unless i were to maybe take a pic of my e4 will proposed equipement layout? if shorty pack is a main design aspect, then you have lots of room for steering by moving the pully.

ps, have you had a chance to compare the e4rs2 directly to the tc6? im on the fence about my next tc. leaning to the vbc but also tc6.1 and e4rs2.

i really like some of the elements team magic brings to the table, but the fragility of some of the plastics is no good on my e4. i dont like reliance on super expensive aftermarket just to finish a race.
with that said, my fully optioned e4rs is actually a damn nice car to drive. very high corner speeds and stablity. though not as much speed on the straight in our spec class. the steering seems tempermental is my only real quam. any little tap and it goes out of whack =(
Hello,

We have team drivers on both cars (TC6.1 and E4RS II). I personally think the E4RS II is more "easy" to tune. About plastic parts: yes, the TM plastic on E4 3 belts series was a problem. I asked many time TM to change the plastic compound for a harder one, but it wasn't possible without changing the molds. Kevin decided to change the plastics for the E4RS II. They are for sure a lot more durable, and there is no comparison possible between the two plastic compounds of the E4 3 belts and the E4RS II.
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:24 AM   #4038
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Thanks for your response,
I actually switched to the TC6 a couple of years ago but still have all my E4 stuff laying around. Some of the guys have been asking for a viable conversion that will improve the chassis flex issues and eliminate the battery tray configuration.
What you see with this design is just some ideas I had about keeping the central motor position and fixing some of the stuff many drivers have been complaining about. Since I already had the stock layout modeled, I figured, why not play around with some alternative configurations in SW.
Another idea I was pondering is a similar layout like the old HPI RS4 which had a centrally mounted motor and 2 belts just updated with the E4 suspension and a transverse mounted, shorty battery pack.
Like I said before, it's just some ideas.
I think an interesting way for the flex is to change the rear upper deck fixation.

May be you can create a "two part" upper deck:
Part 1: a simple graphite plate, like a "I" between the two rear aluminium holders.
Part 2: a revised upper deck, without the " \ / " parts on the rear which is very problematic.
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:44 AM   #4039
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I think an interesting way for the flex is to change the rear upper deck fixation.

May be you can create a "two part" upper deck:
Part 1: a simple graphite plate, like a "I" between the two rear aluminium holders.
Part 2: a revised upper deck, without the " \ / " parts on the rear which is very problematic.
I had been pondering something along the same idea. I really don't like how asymmetrical the rear bulkheads are from side to side. It's as if chassis flex was of no concern when the E4 was initially designed. I'm tempted to redesign the left side bulkhead so that they both mount to the chassis identically. I have acces to our machine shop and prototyping is not too difficult, I'm just trying to concentrate on another car design at this time as well. It's a 1/8th scale electric pan car chassis that should prove to be much more fun on the bigger tracks especially in Europe. I understand quite a few people like to run pro10 cars but I think the speeds are a little scary for such a small car.
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:14 AM   #4040
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Speeds arn't the problem with the Pro10 cars.
We run them with 2S and 10.5 boosted and reach about 105KM/H on the bigger nitro tracks without losing controll of the car.
This is with the Pro10 designed bodies.
If you take the mod Pro10 guys, well it is different.
They use the 235MM Nitro bodyshell to get the downforce to keep the car on track.
This year one of the Pro10 stock racers(10.5 motor) did a 14.079 at Rucphen and the mod guys(the fastest present) did a 13.89
Speed difference isn't that big.
The power of the mod apose to the stock is huge and there fore the main factor for controling the cars.
Yodog, keep up the good work on the old trusty E4
When you finish the 1:8 electrical car and need test drivers, give me a hauler

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I understand quite a few people like to run pro10 cars but I think the speeds are a little scary for such a small car.
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Old 08-20-2012, 07:19 PM   #4041
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just to keep the discussion going;

assuming a shorty pack, just new lower chassis without the cutout, move the front shaft back, use an NT1 side belt, and i pretty sure the nt1 front belt would fit but dont have a spare one and pulling it out of the car is a massive beotch.

maybe use the rs2 swingrack and turn the servo sideways.
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:45 PM   #4042
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We have team drivers on both cars (TC6.1 and E4RS II). About plastic parts: yes, the TM plastic on E4 3 belts series was a problem. I asked many time TM to change the plastic compound for a harder one, but it wasn't possible without changing the molds.
Glad to hear that, I was starting to think I was crazy ...

I pickup a brand new E4FS for a great price for playing in my backyard ... The nearest track is 1h45 drive but the first time I run there, I felt in love with on-road racing ... The board at the track are pretty hard on plastic but I was breaking a LOT on pieces and prematurely finish my day at the track (not cool when you drove 1h45 for going too ...)

After a lot of online order (9$ shipping for every order) for the E4FS, I finally buy a TC6.1 because the LHS is a AE distributor ... And it's was simple and cheaper on the long term.

I will certainly run the E4FS too since a got spare parts ...
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:33 AM   #4043
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Yodog, please keep it simple. Just having the dual rack steering with the shorty lipo will help the car enough. If there is enough room left over to allow the option of mounting the battery more forward or rearward, even better.

I am more concerned on how you plan on retaining the battery onto the chassis. I hate using tape and I've seen too many instances where the battery pops out of the tape after a hit. Perhaps you should take a look at the Exoteck TA06 chassis regarding battery access without the use of a removable top plate.
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:33 PM   #4044
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pretty good day with my e4, though still have issues with the steering going fiddly after any kind of wobble or tap.
running a savox 1251mg but sometimes it will just go straight for a bit then dive toward the board.. really strange.

aside from fighting that though, car handled great. tq'd and came second in the main to a driver much much much more experienced than me.
is there a stronger duel bell crank? i broke mine pretty easily.
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:13 AM   #4045
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Keep it coming rick cant wait for the actual proto to test it put a smile in my face..
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:17 AM   #4046
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Rick should I Place my order now...
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:19 AM   #4047
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pretty good day with my e4, though still have issues with the steering going fiddly after any kind of wobble or tap.
running a savox 1251mg but sometimes it will just go straight for a bit then dive toward the board.. really strange.

aside from fighting that though, car handled great. tq'd and came second in the main to a driver much much much more experienced than me.
is there a stronger duel bell crank? i broke mine pretty easily.
Your better off using the single steering bell rank... It's more precise and no slop..
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:56 PM   #4048
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im not convinced the bellcrank is totally to blame, though there was less wobble at speed with the dual.
im essentially running a solid arm as i had to ca my saver to prevent high speed bump deflection.kfactory single bellcrank.
also running 5mm of bumpsteer spacers on the steering arms which helped a little bit but still occasionally does funky stuff heh.
they sit level at ride height, but there is quite a bit of bump steer just compressing the chassis a little bit.

maybe i should go to a higher torque servo? 1251 is fast, but average torque wise. maybe i could try my 1258 in there.

despite the minor gripe though. set a personal best of 26 laps. my season average is 25. was flirting with 27 until i ended up on my roof ha.
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:16 AM   #4049
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Keep it coming rick cant wait for the actual proto to test it put a smile in my face..
Still trying to squeeze this in with all the other projects I got going on.
The battery mount that I am planning on using is from the TC6 and one could use either tape or Velcro straps.
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:23 AM   #4050
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Hi all,
I'm thinking on trying electric touring and would appreciate if anyone can tell me something about the RTR E4 JR is this car any good?.

It has a nice price and looks to be competitive!.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Greg.
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