The new E4rs call E4RS2.

I like old E4rs.

http://www.teammagic.com.tw/wb_main....07001&pageno=1

I have the E4JR kit version. It ran good when I first got it. I used a brushless setup on it with a low profile servo. The RTR is a brushed motor with a standard servo.

The E4 in general is a little sluggish in the straights due to is three belt drivetrain but it transitions very well in the in a tight infield due to its centered electronics setup.

Things that are different on the E4JR vs. the other E4's are:
Top loading battery
I like this vs the bottom tray because of its convenient access. However, the thumb screws holding it are small and with big fingers a bit hard to unscrew if you need access to the battery in a hurry. Also there's a lot of flex and potention for flex on the battery cover if you don't screw it down tight which can affect your handling. It can also affect your steering because the steering bellcrank is mounted to the battery cover. Also if you're going to use the newer hardcased lipo, you'll need to shim the battery cover by 1.5mm under the hinge mount at the front. Don't flex or sqeeze the cover to fit because it will affect handling.

Plastic chassis
I have found the chassis to be somewhat not durable. There was good intention in the design but it doesn't work so well. I'm talking about the fact that the chassis is made of three pieces. A front piece, a main center piece, and a rear piece. The idea was that if you get damaged in a crash in the front or rear, all you need to do is just replace the modular piece. However, I've had those pieces damaged in such a way that it also ripped the mounts on the center section such that the center section would also need to be replaced, so no savings there.

Other than that, the rest is all standard E4 aside from the plastic bulkheads both front and rear and the plastic shock towers. Those pieces are all good.

The biggest advice I can give you is this: DON'T UPGRADE THE CAR WITH ANY ALUMINUM OR GRAPHITE PARTS!

The reason for this is that all the plastic parts work together perfectly. Once you stiffen one part of the car or another, the added stiffness or strength puts more stress on the other plastic parts it mounts to. Case in point, I upgraded to aluminum bulkheads and that resulted in more stress to the front and rear lower chassis pieces. I also upgraded to the graphite shock towers which mounted to the plastic upper bulkheads which mounted to the aluminum lower bulkheads. Guess what failed? The squishy part in between the aluminum and graphite.

Parts to keep on hand
Upper and lower bumper piece: This part is very fragile. Despite the foam taking the hit, the upper and lower piece tends to snap too easily.

Hubs and suspension arms: This is pretty standard for just about any car out there.

Front and rear lower chassis pieces: It shouldn't break so bad if you keep it all stock but its good to have them. You should keep more than one rear lower chassis piece because that one will break more often than the front.

Battery cover thumbscrews: These things are small and can get lost easily. The car won't run right if the battery cover is not secured using this. You can replace it with a 3mm locknut and use a nut driver instead of your fingers. Actually that may work better than the thumbscrews.

Enjoy the E4JR RTR as it is. When you are ready to upgrade, there are plenty of E4FS or RS available out there that can be had for a very good price.

Wow that's very helpfull I really appreciate you taking the time to write this!!.
So the rtr version is a nice and competetive car and should make an awesome electric touring platform for me.

Do you know a good source for parts for it?.

I see that emain hobbies has the car but its out of stock at the moment.

Best regards and thanks.

Greg.

Try this:
http://www.rcshopping.com/profra.jsp...3005&proclass=

BTW, just get the Drift Spec E4D. Its the same as the JR except with a painted body and drift tires. Since everyone almost always ditch the kit tires it won't make any difference. Especially since AMain has it so cheap with free shipping.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...RD-24GHz-Radio
Ooops! Not quite. Just add a set of pre-mounted Sorex 36Rs to your order and it will qualifiy for free shipping.

For my Team Magic E4FS, I always buy from RCSHOPPING ... Note that i'm from Canada ...

Nothing bad to say about the service ... The web site is creepy (or crapy) but I always receive my parts in A1 condition ... Price and shipping are okay

I sometime buy from a Willpower on EBAY and he is alright ...

Thanks for the feedback guys I appreciate it very much!.
Its a race between the HB RTR Cyclone S and the TM E4JR do you guys think the E4 is more competitive than the Cyclone?.

Greg.

RTR cars are RTR cars. great to get you into the sport for sure, but if you decide to stick with the sport, you WILL replace every single peice of your rtr package, so keep that in mind.

the e4 chassis is quite capable of being competitive in the hands of the right driver. its easy to drive at speed, holds a lot of corner speed ect. if i got that jr, first thing i might get is a set of turnbuckles for the upper links. you cant adjust those ones and they look liek they would be the first part to break in a crash. cant tell from the pics but id assume the steering links would also be solid plastic. couldn't adjust toe out in the front without turnbuckles.


that cyclone looks like its more adjustable out of the box which might suit you too.

if it were me, id get a nice radio "which you can resell if you dont like the hobby" a cheap hobbywing brushless system and a tc4 clubracer... not to spit on this thread... you all know i love my e4!

wonger how the e4rs would handle with an e4D chassis. sure , its plastic and might not flex as much but top load battery would make things a ton easier. could this be transfered to cf easily?

or would the thumbscrews create too much of a variable in the flex of the car?
thats all i would need to make me happy with this car. it handles fantastic the way it is, but changing batteries is a pita. if we could balance the flex and make the car easier to service, id buy into that.

Cyclone!

There's more parts for the Cyclone out there in both factory and aftermarket.

Although this is an E4 thread and I own an E4, I wouldn't recommend the car to someone as their entry level car. The E4 is interesting if you've already had a few cars and want to try something different.

this is my first time using solidworks. found a good set of youtube tutorials and sat down to learn it.
so, first drawing in solidworks, work in progress and i wont promise all the holes line up.
gonna cut it in mdf and try to build the car.

basically copied the chassis shape and hole pattern. instead of a battery cutout i made slots for strap tape. after tommorrows race, ill take thec ar appart and figure out some lipo holding blocks that will allow removal of lipo by pulling side belt. and sliding it out.

this is my first time using solidworks. found a good set of youtube tutorials and sat down to learn it.
so, first drawing in solidworks, work in progress and i wont promise all the holes line up.
gonna cut it in mdf and try to build the car.

basically copied the chassis shape and hole pattern. instead of a battery cutout i made slots for strap tape. after tommorrows race, ill take thec ar appart and figure out some lipo holding blocks that will allow removal of lipo by pulling side belt. and sliding it out.

Getting a little more into this stuff. Now. Had to model most of the e4 bulkheads to check my hole alignments so ill be able to produce chassis plates shortly if there is any interest.

Im gonna go a little deeper though and try to adress some of my personal grievences with he car.
Im going to delete that bs side belt tension peice and unify it with the layshaft carrier on the same side. I had to cut it and broke it in a crash as a result. So that wont happen with the new one.
Lipo blocks are a challenge due to clearence to the front belt carrier but ill figure it out. Right now it will assume the use if strap tape.

I also want to redeign the lower bulkheads to delete the superexpensive uppser bulkhead shock tower mount. The top deck will be extended to capture the bearings and double for camber link position.


Is there anything else that would be interesting to try? Probably not worth all the effort with new cars but i like it, think it deserves an update.

Here is some new ideas using a 2 belt layout.

Valk, PM me your email address and I can send you one of my chassis models which has all the stock hole locations.

I like the design but this layout has already been done before... If you search Atlas YM34 Type-T and it's pretty close to HPI pro 3... Although its less drag on drivetrain but the CG is higher...

I have driven both car and they Are not stable on high speed corners they tend to roll to much due to higher CG..