Hey everyone! I am selling my E4 if anyone is interested:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10819185

Gonna get my first taste of open touring car in a few weeks her. Gonna be interesting swapping motors between heats though. Brushless motors dont seem to go in or come out without removing the right side center bulkhead upper brace.
Have it setup pretty well for stock, curious what fdr to start with for a 7.5 d3 with boost.
Never raced mod vefore so hope i dont have to do setup changes in addition to motor swaps between heats.

Just curious...
Why are you going to be changing motors between heats? Two classes? That's a lot of work and the setups most likely will be a bit different. Primarily weight transfer from front to rear will be greater in mod.

because i only have one chassis now having sold my other one to a new guy. gonna run stock and mod. its a parking lot track so the mod wont be crazy fast, probably in line with our nitro heat.
if i kept the other car, i might run it in stock and the e4 in mod but we dont actually run anything faster than 17.5 year round, so cost for another chassis + electronics. ect ect.

basiclly it comes down to the fact that im poor, only have a year under my belt, dont expect to place in the top in either class, just trying it out since it will be run at the event.

if you have suggestions on mod settings i should look at, im all ears. still learning how to setup cars period. my e4 is mostly kit, but its a mishmash of e4 parts. im running the same springs in all corners, the short ones. 35wt in all corners with zero rebound. downstop 6f 5r measured from the bottoms of the hub carriers. 1.5 camber all around. most of the mounting points are stock, but i raised the rear rollcenter up a little vs the front. car rolls through corners very smoothly and crisply off throttle. pushes a little on throttle.

practice in vrc with the race2the worlds has changed my driving style somewhat too. im starting to drive it more point and shoot than i used to, just power into corner and scrub off speed through. still a bit to learn though. first year of racing. racing guys doing it for decades lol.

i dont expect to do well in mod, the guys doing it are coming from somewhere else and they run it all the time.

I raced mod and 17.5 on a parking lot track. The two are night and day. The weight transfer is tremendous in mod and I use a 5.5 with no boost running a 7.0 FDR. 7.5 with boost would be no different. The most noticeable difference between mod and 17.5 is tire wear. A new set of tires running 17.5 can last you for months, while that same set in mod will only last you 2-3 race days.

I guess ill just have to see how it goes. I know i wont be he only one motor swapping. Wont know til my 7.5 shows up and i give it a go.

One other thing to consider is gear changes. you will need to swap spur gears as well unless you are running 17.5 boosted. The E4 doesn't have much room for motor adjustment. By the way I still have my E4 stuff lying around if you are interested. The primary car has a custom 2mm chassis without the battery tray cutout. It is awesome in no boost classes.


I still have a few battery trays left if anyone is interested.

I think the e4 is the last used touring car for me. Very happy with it but with all the upgrades and spares i have now, could have got into a photon ex or 6.1.

Would be interested in the custom chassis if you have one though. Battery tray is a huge pia.

Rick,

I was thining of running my TEAM E4 on stock with shorty lipo pack are you able to design a chassis for it?

I think Team Magic E4 has a lot of potential just need some tweaking....

Hey Kim,
I'll ponder that idea. It will just take some tweaking of the current design I have.
I have a new CNC router table coming soon and I hope to be cutting some chassis as well as some other stuff by mid July.

id be interested in aquiring a chassis if its not too crazy expensive. have you devised a way to change batteries semi quickly with it? id be fine, but my gens lipos get bunged up on the rear battery tray bulkhead, i have to loosten the screws off and really push to get the thing to fall out. even a revised battery tray that moves the thing forward like.. 2-3mm would be nice.

otherwise, im very happy with the car so far. i had it mostly setup to kit, just raised the rear rollcenter slightly and took out some droop. car stays nice and flat very stable and easy to drive. i can sell running it til i run out of parts or buy a brand new car, but still keep it around for a good while.

Thats an interesting set-up if you have some way of getting the battery in and out of it. If there was a decent graphite chassis kit upgrade, I would go for that to upgrade my E4JS. Right now it just sits.

Shorty lipo with dual crank steering posts on the lower chassis.... even better.

oooh, does your lipo tray work any better than the wolf hobbies one?easier to insert/remove?

If you are referring to the steel tray from Wolf, yes...
My tray is made from aluminum and allows the battery to sit about 1mm lower in the chassis. Those that have bought it can attest to how well it works. It,s a bit more flexible too, so it doesn't bind up the chassis as the steel version does.
I also made some shock tower spacers as well which helps to add some stability to the rear end.

I'll think about doing another chassis conversion now that I will have a way to produce it in low quantity without breaking the bank. I like the chassis mounted dual crank steering idea along with a new top plate.

As far as battery swaps go with the tray less design, I just roll off the side belt and slide the battery out sideways. No big deal... Mostly I just leave the battery in and charge it between rounds. That's the nice thing about LiPo batteries vs Nickle based batteries.