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Old 02-01-2012, 08:55 PM   #3976
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anyone else have problems with the center pully on the layshaft flinging its pin? i got the car all wired up and gave it a rev on the desk and out came that pin... only thing holding it is a Oring? any better solution? prob try a few layers of heatshrink but somthing... hard would be nice.


Edit:

used a outdrive ring. funny. i got a puff of smoke when i found the pin, thought i had an electrical problem. but i guess it was just the axel raping the pully ha.

Last edited by valk; 02-01-2012 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:07 PM   #3977
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anyone else have problems with the center pully on the layshaft flinging its pin? i got the car all wired up and gave it a rev on the desk and out came that pin... only thing holding it is a Oring? any better solution? prob try a few layers of heatshrink but somthing... hard would be nice.


Edit:

used a outdrive ring. funny. i got a puff of smoke when i found the pin, thought i had an electrical problem. but i guess it was just the axel raping the pully ha.
Any pin that's just being held in place by a oring and not a set screw will fling out without no load.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:35 PM   #3978
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dif ring worked pretty well and didnt take much effort to get over the orings grove. i might look into what size setscrews i might need to try a more perminent solution. though it might never need it.

she is all ready. minus steering linkage. i didnt get one with the car so i tried to make one from a swaybar link and various ends, but it didnt work out when i crashed ha. i should get a servo saver too. dunno why i didnt when i bought wire but whatevs.

maybe my steering blocks were worn but didnt take much impact to toss the lower screw on the left side. maybe just some CA in the hole to bring the thread back. also notice quite a bit of caster wobble. but maybe a halfmil shim in the front outer pins would help that.

funny. the drive train is smoother with one bad layshaft bearing than my tc5 with a full set of new bearings.

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Old 02-01-2012, 11:50 PM   #3979
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Mine have hollow shafts and set screws.
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:07 PM   #3980
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took my E4 out lat night for a test run on our carpet track and quite pleased with how easy the car is to drive fast.

took a lot of effort to get my tc5 predictable on carpet and this car just does it out of the box.

question though. my car didnt come with a servo saver. picked up a couple direct mounts to try, but the short one for pancars is too small to get enough travel in one direction, the larger one wont fit over the chassis.
i could prob shim the servo up higher to make it fit, but before i do that, thought id get some opinions.

is the TM servo saver listed on wolfhobbies the best/only option?
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:27 PM   #3981
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You Have to sim the servo to give you clearance not to hit the top deck. I still got TM E4 I just wish TM just refine the chassis instead copying everyone else on the market. I love he design but it's just not competitive enough to keep up with all the TC out on the market so I jumped ship.
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:24 PM   #3982
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i dont really get too hung up on whether a chassis is widely considered competitive or not.
im sure if i compare it to a 2011/2012 $500 chassis, sure it wont be as competitive, but the guy sitting in top spot in our A final could probably take a used TC3 from here, any tc3, not touch a damn thing on it, and kick most of our asses.

I dont have the money for a new chassis, and id rather have MORE chassis than just one really good one to run more classes and get MORE track time.


i managed to get a pancar servo saver to work by switching to the dual bellcrank steering system. though the saver is quite soft. would probably deflect in a lot of corners.
are the taem magic ones stiffer?
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:23 AM   #3983
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They are stiffer.
I don't know why everybody is having problems with the TM and placing servosavers?
I used a low profile servo with a Tamiya saver and the 3racing alu servosaver horn without problems.
later on i didn't use a servosaver at all.
Don't put the horn vertical in neutral position as this will give you uneven steering trow.

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Old 02-06-2012, 10:14 AM   #3984
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Hey guys noob here lol. I have had my E4D for approx a year now but have just recently got it up and running. The bearings seals were starting to pop off so i replaced them with new bearings however i had a few questions. Are there any parts of this car i need to oil or grease before assembling it. I did not get a manual with my car nor can i find a full build manual that tells me all the locations i need to lube and i have only ever built 1 other rc car ( tamiya tt-01d ) which was a shaft driven car. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:07 PM   #3985
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Before i attempt an order form wolf, does anyone have any Team Magic Oem Futaba servo saver arms? i wanna get a couple of them if i can. wolf has them apparently, but if its gonna take a while to get, id just like to double check here first.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:19 AM   #3986
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It's always a god idea to oil and grease all moving parts..
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:01 AM   #3987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valk View Post
Before i attempt an order form wolf, does anyone have any Team Magic Oem Futaba servo saver arms? i wanna get a couple of them if i can. wolf has them apparently, but if its gonna take a while to get, id just like to double check here first.
Last week I ordered a set of rear arms from Wolf on Sunday and they were delivered on Thursday. USPS too. (Central Illinois)
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:12 PM   #3988
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Thats pretty good. Heard it could take much longer is why i was scared. Ill just go ahead and order a few.
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:18 AM   #3989
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wolf is an outstanding place to get parts. i have always gotten my parts within 3-4 days. should be no worries at all
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:28 AM   #3990
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wolf is an outstanding place to get parts. i have always gotten my parts within 3-4 days. should be no worries at all
Agree
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