Wolf,

I know you guys did some testing at NORCAL HOBBIEs so what setup you guys came up with?

I talked to Wolf yesterday and he said that he would post setups for mod and 13.5 soon.

Cool! Rick your going to make it at tomorrows race in visalia?

I'm glad you reminded me that the race is tomorrow instead of Sunday.

I plan on being there.

We have been working hard at coming up with a good base setup for the 2010 Reedy Race at Norcal. We are VERY happy with what we have come up with. We have setups for Mod and Stock motor classes. Both of these setups are very neutral and predictable. They have been tested with the handout tire ;-) and work well whether the surface is sprayed or not. The ONLY complaint we have received from test drivers is that the cars are "too stuck". We consider this great because it is easy to give up stick but it is not always easy to get it without losing something at the other end of the car.

One note is that these were developed with the E4FS. We make no secret of the fact that we feel the FS is the most stable, versatile and competitive version of the E4. These setups will work just fine with the Limited Edition and RS. These setups have also been tried on another track and work great. I think we have a real good baseline setup for the E4XX that can at least be used as a baseline at any asphalt track. Even though they are not that different from each other the stock setup is crappy with the mod motor. I havent tried running the mod setup with a stock motor but it would be interesting to see how it works.

Another piece of good news is that Norcal is also enthusiastically supporting the E4. They have a good stock of kits and parts. We will also be there with parts and tech support.

The setup sheets will be posted on the E4FS and E4RS download sections on our web site. Unfortunately we have been trying to post them for 3 days and they just won't stay posted. Please email us directly and we will send you the setup sheet in PDF format. Just let us know if you want the stock or mod setup. Please feel free to email us directly with any questions. I don't get to check the PMs very often. See you at the Reedy.

hey i have the e4 and running a mamba max pro esc and a lrp 6.5 bl system i keep braking the out drives is there a alloy hop up avaliable ??? if so where can i get on ohh and im from australia cheers

what are peoples take on the plastic chassis version?

I know the tamiya ta05 is very competitive against the 416's at my club in stock, and I'm wondering if I should go the plastic way.

the version 2 ta05 and E4JS are about the same price, however the TM has cvd's as standard.

does anyone also have a losi jrx-s type r they can compare to?

the losi was my first pick, however I am considering the TM the more I wait and ponder

Hacker, I owned a JRXS/R and switched to the E4. The JRXS was a great race car but C Hubs and Diffs seemed to give me a lot of grief as they seemed underspec'd. Specially diffs with a low turn motior.

Have recently switched from Alu drive shaft and metal outdrive to E4 plastic and all good. I would argue there's a lot more to be gained by learning a car's finer elements than the composition of the chassis.. but that's just me.

I have been running the JS for almost a year. Its a great handling car. I like the way the lipo fits in from the top quite easily. I don't have any lipo fitment issues especially with the new hard cased 5400s. However, the new 5400 compared to my old 4800 20C Platnum is a little tight but still fits fine with out any adjustments.

Before I had the JS I had the TA-05 with IFS. It was a nice chassis but it is an absolute pain to work on. Just to remove or change belts require disassembling the entire chassis. After having to go through that twice, I dumped the car fast to all the awaiting Tamiya hungry fans.

Starting with the basic stock set-up you are good to go. The plastic shocks are plenty good for competitive club racing. You'll need to get an optional spring set to fine tune the car to your track condition but that can be said about any car. Although, the shock towers are plastic, they're quite good. Stiff enough to do the job and flexible enough to avoid breakage.

About breakage, first of all no car is indestructable. You will need spares regardless of what you get. Most of mine wear in the front end particarly the front bumper mount which I find a bit weak. You will need front arms and possibly hubs. I use the 3deg hubs, I think you get the 6deg hubs as stock.

What is also interesting is that the JS chassis is actually three pieces. There is the main chassis and there is a front chassis piece and a rear chassis piece which can be changed to minimize cost resulting from chassis damage. So all you need are the front and rear chassis pieces as spares which I think are $5.95 from Wolf. It is an interesting design and it often turns heads at the track because of its central battery layout with the three belt system which is unique among all the "me too" XRay, TC5 etc. style chassis.

As for the Losi car, honestly, I live in SoCal which is RC country and nobody drives that car anymore. It had a lot of hype before being released and when it finally showed the results of that car was disapointing. Not only that its also quite old by more than 3 years which is ancient history considering RC product life span.

Just to be fair an unbiased, I will add that maybe you should consider a Hot Bodies Cyclone S as well. They're awful cheap and well supported by many shops.

Is Wolfhobbies website down? I can't browse....

man i love my JS did very well with it my first year in VTA and a little Rubber TC ..... the car eats up the infield

Have a 3mm / 4mm / 5mm turnbuckle wrench but they do not fit the team magic parts.

What do you guys use to adjust your turnbuckles?

heres what ive beem using

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/product.c...9&product=8279

I use the original tool supplied with the kit.
And that is the tool mentioned above.

cheers Roy

Thanks for the quick response will need to check through my box for it.