Team Magic E4 Thread
03-31-2010 | 05:37 AM
#3136
The E4D isn't a new car but a E4JS with a locked diffential in the rear and a differential in the front,drift tires and a different internal drive ratio to the E4FS or E4RS.
The front and rear drive ratio are different to eachother also.
So if you have a E4,E4RS,E4FS or the E4JS you can turn it into a drifter with minimal costs
regards Roy
The front and rear drive ratio are different to eachother also.
So if you have a E4,E4RS,E4FS or the E4JS you can turn it into a drifter with minimal costs
regards Roy
@Solara
Thanks a lot for the quick reply. I have been browsing through the parts list of both cars and they seem to be using a different rear belt as well. I guess this should not be a problem since they have been replace by new Wider parts if I understood that right.
I am bit worried concerning the batteries since I use saddle pack batteries because I own an old car. I will test them on a friend's E4FS car and then decide about the purchase.
Is anybody aware whether TM will release a new car? I have seen a new E4D car on their site.
Thanks a lot for the quick reply. I have been browsing through the parts list of both cars and they seem to be using a different rear belt as well. I guess this should not be a problem since they have been replace by new Wider parts if I understood that right.
I am bit worried concerning the batteries since I use saddle pack batteries because I own an old car. I will test them on a friend's E4FS car and then decide about the purchase.
Is anybody aware whether TM will release a new car? I have seen a new E4D car on their site.
03-31-2010 | 08:51 AM
#3137
I got the top part on one of my cars.
I takes out the slop on the rear end but you can also use the Wolf Hobbies part that is cheaper.
It also ads 1.5 degrees more toe in when needed.
The other part i don't have.
On my other car i have all the alloy parts from Wolf and that one ahse a lot less slop in the suspension and wheels.
Now going to try the alloy wheelhubs that are used on the E4JS and hopefully all slop is gone.
If you want those K-Factory parts cheaper then they normally are then use a certain not to mention shop in Hong Kong
regards Roy
I takes out the slop on the rear end but you can also use the Wolf Hobbies part that is cheaper.
It also ads 1.5 degrees more toe in when needed.
The other part i don't have.
On my other car i have all the alloy parts from Wolf and that one ahse a lot less slop in the suspension and wheels.
Now going to try the alloy wheelhubs that are used on the E4JS and hopefully all slop is gone.
If you want those K-Factory parts cheaper then they normally are then use a certain not to mention shop in Hong Kong
regards Roy
Even at the unmentionable shop in Asia (both of them), its still a pricey part. My interest in the KFactory rear hub was the 1.5 deg additional toe. Just wondering if the 1.5deg outboard toe is better than the 1.5deg inboard toe from the suspension arm mount. The outboard toe worked better on my XRay but wondering if that is different on the E4 due to its pillow ball mounts.
As for the second part, that is the only alum. front side rear hinge pin mount available. I find that its awfully expensive for such a small piece of alum. Just wondering if it is all that necessary.
Also, can someone explain the differences in the suspension arms for both front and rear? I noticed that there have been changes. The front arm that I recently got looks different than the ones I originally had on the JS. I'm not sure if they're FS or RS arms but the Wolf site has deferred all front arms to the JS part number. Has all the front arms been consoldated into one part?
About the rear arm, there's the one with the alum. rod in it from the old E4 and the JS all plastic version is there another one? I think I saw one somewhere that said that the alum rod one adds 1.5deg toe. Can someone clarify this?
Again, thanks for all your help.
03-31-2010 | 09:54 AM
#3138
Thanks Roy.
Even at the unmentionable shop in Asia (both of them), its still a pricey part.
Use the Wolf hobbies rear hubs,cost even less and the bearing fitment is even better the the K-Factory and they have them with zero toe in and 1 degrees toe in
My interest in the KFactory rear hub was the 1.5 deg additional toe. Just wondering if the 1.5deg outboard toe is better than the 1.5deg inboard toe from the suspension arm mount. The outboard toe worked better on my XRay but wondering if that is different on the E4 due to its pillow ball mounts.
As for the second part, that is the only alum. front side rear hinge pin mount available. I find that its awfully expensive for such a small piece of alum. Just wondering if it is all that necessary.
Just use the stock part works great
Also, can someone explain the differences in the suspension arms for both front and rear? I noticed that there have been changes. The front arm that I recently got looks different than the ones I originally had on the JS. I'm not sure if they're FS or RS arms but the Wolf site has deferred all front arms to the JS part number. Has all the front arms been consoldated into one part?
Both suspension arms have new numbers and both did loose the alum rod in them
About the rear arm, there's the one with the alum. rod in it from the old E4 and the JS all plastic version is there another one? I think I saw one somewhere that said that the alum rod one adds 1.5deg toe. Can someone clarify this?
I have tried all suspension arms that are out there but the only difference was between the E4FS and E4RS rear suspension arms
Again, thanks for all your help.
Even at the unmentionable shop in Asia (both of them), its still a pricey part.
Use the Wolf hobbies rear hubs,cost even less and the bearing fitment is even better the the K-Factory and they have them with zero toe in and 1 degrees toe in
My interest in the KFactory rear hub was the 1.5 deg additional toe. Just wondering if the 1.5deg outboard toe is better than the 1.5deg inboard toe from the suspension arm mount. The outboard toe worked better on my XRay but wondering if that is different on the E4 due to its pillow ball mounts.
As for the second part, that is the only alum. front side rear hinge pin mount available. I find that its awfully expensive for such a small piece of alum. Just wondering if it is all that necessary.
Just use the stock part works great
Also, can someone explain the differences in the suspension arms for both front and rear? I noticed that there have been changes. The front arm that I recently got looks different than the ones I originally had on the JS. I'm not sure if they're FS or RS arms but the Wolf site has deferred all front arms to the JS part number. Has all the front arms been consoldated into one part?
Both suspension arms have new numbers and both did loose the alum rod in them
About the rear arm, there's the one with the alum. rod in it from the old E4 and the JS all plastic version is there another one? I think I saw one somewhere that said that the alum rod one adds 1.5deg toe. Can someone clarify this?
I have tried all suspension arms that are out there but the only difference was between the E4FS and E4RS rear suspension arms
Again, thanks for all your help.
regards Roy
03-31-2010 | 03:10 PM
#3139
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
@Solara
Thanks a lot for the quick reply. I have been browsing through the parts list of both cars and they seem to be using a different rear belt as well. I guess this should not be a problem since they have been replace by new Wider parts if I understood that right.
I am bit worried concerning the batteries since I use saddle pack batteries because I own an old car. I will test them on a friend's E4FS car and then decide about the purchase.
Is anybody aware whether TM will release a new car? I have seen a new E4D car on their site.
Thanks a lot for the quick reply. I have been browsing through the parts list of both cars and they seem to be using a different rear belt as well. I guess this should not be a problem since they have been replace by new Wider parts if I understood that right.
I am bit worried concerning the batteries since I use saddle pack batteries because I own an old car. I will test them on a friend's E4FS car and then decide about the purchase.
Is anybody aware whether TM will release a new car? I have seen a new E4D car on their site.
Try WOLF......
04-13-2010 | 01:33 AM
#3141
04-13-2010 | 02:16 AM
#3142
thnks again
04-13-2010 | 02:37 AM
#3143
If you use the 08 version of the RS top plate you could use the old steering system for sure.
Don't know for the 09 version tho.
You can trim off the extra "ears" from the top plate to match you old plate.
The RS tp makes your chassis a bit stiffer.
regards Roy
Don't know for the 09 version tho.
You can trim off the extra "ears" from the top plate to match you old plate.
The RS tp makes your chassis a bit stiffer.
regards Roy
04-13-2010 | 02:52 AM
#3144
Thnks again Roy, Already source out the top plate with LHS, but they dont keep stock
. Looks like i have to source out from online shops. Thank You for the info Roy.cheers
04-13-2010 | 04:15 AM
#3145
but just looking for the top plate.
04-19-2010 | 11:47 PM
#3148
Good luck with it
I drove mine last weekend with a Tekin RS and Redline 13.5 and lipo.
Man!!!!! that combo is sick so fast
I not going to try MOD as this one is so fast you never know what past you on the straight
Driving with a FDR 6.94 with the others driving with a FDR of 4.5 and 4.94 i got more speed then they had.
Even a 10.5 driver who was there wasn't that fast.
So with a FDR of 6.94 the car was to fast to go at top speed into the turn at the end of the main straight.
Normally we do that to get a better momentum and speed.
I am going to try a FDR of 7.plus for the next race to get it dailed in more for our track.
regards Roy
I drove mine last weekend with a Tekin RS and Redline 13.5 and lipo.
Man!!!!! that combo is sick so fast
I not going to try MOD as this one is so fast you never know what past you on the straight
Driving with a FDR 6.94 with the others driving with a FDR of 4.5 and 4.94 i got more speed then they had.
Even a 10.5 driver who was there wasn't that fast.
So with a FDR of 6.94 the car was to fast to go at top speed into the turn at the end of the main straight.
Normally we do that to get a better momentum and speed.
I am going to try a FDR of 7.plus for the next race to get it dailed in more for our track.
regards Roy
04-20-2010 | 04:42 PM
#3149
I have notice that their is too much vibration on the front end of the car with a spool when turning the wheel, I'm concern that this will affect the handling of the car when cornering since this will cause a lot of wheel hop due to vibration. Anyone experiencing this issue with their E4?
04-20-2010 | 05:01 PM
#3150
I have notice that their is too much vibration on the front end of the car with a spool when turning the wheel, I'm concern that this will affect the handling of the car when cornering since this will cause a lot of wheel hop due to vibration. Anyone experiencing this issue with their E4?
I may not be able to make it to the track this weekend but if plans change, I'll be there.
We can compare notes.