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Old 04-20-2010, 06:29 PM   #3151
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Vibration and chattering is really bad with spool you will experience some but the vibration I got is very noticeable when you turn the wheel.
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Old 04-20-2010, 06:45 PM   #3152
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Vibration and chattering is really bad with spool you will experience some but the vibration I got is very noticeable when you turn the wheel.
That has been a problem with many other cars including the XRay and Tamiya 416 when using the spool. The way they have fixed the problem is by upgrading to a new type of CVD that is a double jointed universal.



The problem is that so far I've only seen these available for Xray and Tamiya.

They're made by SpecR Competition. Perhaps someone can find a set that will work on the E4.
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Old 04-20-2010, 07:13 PM   #3153
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Vibration and chattering is really bad with spool you will experience some but the vibration I got is very noticeable when you turn the wheel.
All car with the spool will experience the same vibration when you are bench testing the car while turning. Nothing you can do about it, it is simply because the plastic wheel/tire are never balanced left and right(or never will). You can try to balance a toy car wheel/tires but again, it will never balanced perfectly like a real car does with the computer equipment....

If your front wheels are perfectly balanced (or very close across left to right), while running spool, it will not vibrate, or at least it will vibrate very little....however, if you are racing your car on the track (with load) those vibration will not occur compare to you bench testing the car without load. I mean, how can you tell the front wheel is vibrating while running 35 mph on the track?

1 other thing you can do is limit the total steering range (full left or full right)...go like 95% only, not full turn....that will also extend the life of the CVD up front.

Those double jointed CVD that posted above might help a little, but $60 a pop and probably will last you 2-3 races...is alittle bit expensive for me (we have a box full of those broken CVD from the Xray owners and Corally drivers that tried to convert it to work on their PHi). Remember...it is the era of TEKIN 203 with 13.5 motor that can run as fast as MOD motor...with those kinda power, not too many parts can last with impact.
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Old 04-20-2010, 08:08 PM   #3154
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I know it will be less vibration underload... But I haven't seen a car vibrates this bad oh well will see this sunday if it will affect the car during a race.
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Old 04-21-2010, 01:41 AM   #3155
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I was just having the same vibration problem and starting to get annoyed. Good to know that its not just my car...
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Old 04-21-2010, 05:30 AM   #3156
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Default More info pls.. will check ours soon.. down atm

Quote:
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I know it will be less vibration underload... But I haven't seen a car vibrates this bad oh well will see this sunday if it will affect the car during a race.
Only at full lock?
Are springs unloaded?
Outdrives in good cond?
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:32 AM   #3157
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Car outdrive are in god condition and new dogbone... I was just doing a bench test and NO I don't have the car on full lock when the wheel is turn..
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:26 AM   #3158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jochim_18 View Post
I know it will be less vibration underload... But I haven't seen a car vibrates this bad oh well will see this sunday if it will affect the car during a race.
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Originally Posted by yobbism View Post
I was just having the same vibration problem and starting to get annoyed. Good to know that its not just my car...
My Schumacher Mi3, Mi3.5 Mi4, Tamiya TA05R, Team Magic cars, when they were all brand new...I did the same test JUST to find out does any of these brand do the vibration thing or not...none of the car will NOT vibrate, just some are harder and some are lighter...

If you want to see why the WHEEL/TIRES make the vibration, take of the wheel/tires and do the same thing, even turn full left and right and there are almost has no vibration (when without tires).

I stop care about the vibration years ago....I care about the lap times only.
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:15 AM   #3159
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hai guys ~ i new at TM E4D

i notice that the rear belt skipping ~ even i have read at previously there is someone have this problem.. but still i can't find where to adjust.. or mb the E4D don't have the "belt tension'

a picture will help.. funny thing is i play rc 15yrs but with belt driven car i am totally NOOBBBBBB !!!
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Old 04-22-2010, 06:49 AM   #3160
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Look at the pic of the underside and see the seperate back part?
Between the screws of the rear bulkheads you see in the middle another hole.
There is the adjustment screw of the rear belt.

Regards Roy
PS if it isn't there you should order one from a E4RS
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:08 AM   #3161
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i checked mind... there is a hole there... i can used small screw driver pass in to the hole... weird.. nvm tomolo i goes check thanks for the tips ~ appreciated ~
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Old 04-22-2010, 09:34 AM   #3162
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If i am not mistaken it is the same allen key you need as for your pinions.

regards Roy



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i checked mind... there is a hole there... i can used small screw driver pass in to the hole... weird.. nvm tomolo i goes check thanks for the tips ~ appreciated ~
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:01 AM   #3163
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My E4JS didn't come with a rear belt tensioner so I doubt the E4D will either.

Here's the part you need to order:

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/E4_Parts-...ioner_Set.html
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:35 PM   #3164
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My E4JS doesn't have it, so I guess your E4D doesn't have it either, only E4RS/FS comes with it. You may need to buy if you want it

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i checked mind... there is a hole there... i can used small screw driver pass in to the hole... weird.. nvm tomolo i goes check thanks for the tips ~ appreciated ~
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:55 PM   #3165
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thank's... I think i will need to get those... My personal opinion tm shall come those belt tensioner in even rtrs... Those thing is very very important...
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