+1

Thanks Mark! Between Grizz's post and yours I think that covers it.
Thanks for taking the time to help fellas.

Hey Motto, I own a 7port Ser.#US0000135 and
a 5port Ser.#US0000218, also another 7port I
bought just before the serial numbers started.
All are modded and,after many gallons of fuel,
they are still runnin great.

I recently purchased a new older generation GO 25 3 port for a very good price. I have read and heard the older GO motors have a rod and carb problem is that true? I read or heard the rod problem was due to a very tight sleeve so can this be helped by heating the motor up prior to starting it till the motor is fully broke in or will I need to replace the rod after 2 gallons.
I have also seen the blue head GO 21 3 port for sale in the $67 range new with shipping included are both these motors (21/25)any good for Dirtoval racing. I race on a short track top end isn't that important but smooth power from the middle of the corner off the car needs a controlled slide. Most of the guy's I race with run Dynamite platinum series or regular Dynamite's I haven't seen any higher end motors out at the track that is why I'm willing to try a older GO 25.
I had to run a picco 28 (jammin28) yesterday and it was unpredectable it would get the car loose from the center of the corner to the exit of the corner it was way too torquey motor and had a little too much topend I was having to let off early to keep the car down on entry in the corner
My car ran great with a OFNA force 28 but I have a compression leak from glowplug so if somebody has a worn out force 28 I need the head PM me.

can anyone tell me the difference in crank rod part#s?
21-0600
28-0600
same thing different#s? one says pro one does not. The pro stronger? I noticed it was cut different on the back side.
And wich one is the new gx series rod?

I am pretty sure the Go 25 is a 6 port, not a 3 port....

I don't know if it's a 3 or a 6 I haven't got it delivered to my door but these are the specs for the motor I bought i just want to know if this motor has problems and what should I look out for. Thanks
Code http://www.go-engine.com/in-products/R2500-M00HSG.htm


R2500-M00HSG


Contents 4.1cc


Maximum Power 2.8hp


R.P.M 31.000 rpm


Practical Range 6.000/35.500rpm


Bore/Stroke 17.22mm/17.60mm


Ports 3


Crankshaft 14mmSG


Carburetor 8mm

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Standard-Plug

As far as pipes to run. I think the GO 0801 pipe
would be a good choice for the track that you
run on. Also, you could try the Dynamite 086.
This pipe would also get the powerband of the
.25 where you need it for that track. If you
want to move the powerband down more than
that, try the Dynamite 053 pipe. Try out all the
pipes you can and then decide what fits your
driving style on the track. Good luck, stay off
the pipes and don't smack the boards too hard.

Hey Matt, there has been a lot of debate on the last few pages over these rods and associated cranks. I will give you the info I have, although others may disagree and tell you otherwise.

Part # 28-0600 is listed in the factory ordering lists as an RTR Con Rod. It was fitted to earlier model motors (Gen 4 and 5 I know for sure). According to measurements supplied it is not suitable for the Gen 5.5, GX motors with the slightly bigger crank pin diameter.

Part # 21-0600 is the newer rod (Pro). It is stronger and lighter and has a slightly different big end bushing size to better fit the Gen 5.5, GX Series and MG66 motors, with either the std 5.5 cranks or the newer TiNi coated cranks (GX & MG66).

Cheers

thanks grizz,glad to know I have 4 rtr cranks. I would bitch but it's the same thing here in the states.

BUMMER - did you get my PM regarding upgrading to a coated crank ?

yes thank you, I emailed rick at rbmods and will phone him in the morning to see what he wants me to send. I would like to keep this original as possible. He stated that it would be 35.00 to fix,which is fine. I just don't want to do that every 4-5 gallons. The other thing that has been pointed out to me [by you and others] is that the improvements in the cranks may not make that big of a performance difference in this engine. I only paid 90.00 shipped for this engine[3 port race by rb mods] I believe they were called rippindiculous. Come to find out the guy got rid of it because low power and run times. I of course tore it apart to seal. and found he had a total shim stack of.015. That included the .003 already built in. so when I re-shimmed, boom instant power and 13+min run times. So my thinking is; the crank has been drilled and epoxy filled,but the newer cranks have been lightened and re shaped. So I am thinking it would work, new gx or mg crank. If you remember I had the same problem last year with a 5 port of his. The problem with the 5 port was it was to much engine for my talents. Man that thing had insane power. But when it came time to switch rods same thing. I ended up putting a new crank[black tin coated] in that engine. Only to have a c-clip let loose and there she went. Actually thinking back on it I think the newer designed cranck gave that 5port more top end with the same bottom.

Hey guys,
Sorry for the delay in chiming in here. The holidays set us behind, but I've already provided the exploded views of the GX motors w/ parts lists to the dealers. I will also be publishing this on the USA web site.

For now, this is Go Engine USA's policy:
21-0600- Use this for all GX engines.
28-0600- use this for all other .21, .25, and .28.

Tuners and/or drivers should feel free to try experimenting rods in other engines, but this is not a configuration backed by the factory or otherwise. Damage resulting from an incorrect conrod will not be warranted.

This should settle the argument regarding measurements. Unless the factory engineers tell me otherwise, this our current position.
T

trey did you get my email? do you have a con rod for a new gx or mg-66? also the email to reach you though the unfinished web site is not working. comes back domain server no longer valid. I need price with shipping to 95965 ca. would like to see some place here in the u.s. to go and buy parts.not hunt and peck method now used. get a hold of so and so if they don't have it need to order from you to get from them. and then at the mercy of what ever they want to charge. If I knew more on writing script for a web site i would help you,only because it pisses me off going there to find no info or parts availability and price. I do not want to come off as an ahole, but sure as hell do not want this going back to the way it was the last few years.

I would say most of the rod problems were from a really tight motor and improper break in. It looks like the motor you have listed is a sport motor, they do not have nearly as much pinch from the factory.

Rex