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Old 07-20-2010 | 11:20 PM
  #11191  
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i tryed a different pipe today on my gx7r... jp2 with extended header and a bigger drilled hole in stinger... run with my same tune... increase'd low end a bit but it kept the same top end
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Old 07-21-2010 | 09:19 AM
  #11192  
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Originally Posted by kevinjh
GO GX 7 Port long needle

Still got a problem with the engine having an erratic tic over and revving high when coming off wot.
I have changed the con rod, seals, bearings and sealed everything up as instructed,
I have stripped down and checked again for air leaks finding bubbles coming from the front bearing area between the bearing and con rod,
the engine tunes better now and is showing the speed expected from it,
The question is should there be an air leak from this area,
the other problem I have is the constant blowing of the T3 glow plugs, I blow 2 every race meeting, I run for 7 minutes and stop the engine, when trying to restart for the next heat i find the plug blown, can not see any damage on the coil. temp when it comes in is 190
am i doing something wrong? is there another plug that is better and I should try as its getting very expensive. running on Gen2 25%

what are your needle settings? Sounds to me like you are very fat on top and very lean on bottom.
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Old 07-21-2010 | 11:13 AM
  #11193  
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Originally Posted by matrixmike28
what are your needle settings? Sounds to me like you are very fat on top and very lean on bottom.
1/2 turn from flush in on HSN
1 1/2 - 1 3/4 in from flush on LSN
0.8MM iDLE
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Old 07-21-2010 | 12:08 PM
  #11194  
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Originally Posted by kevinjh
1/2 turn from flush in on HSN
1 1/2 - 1 3/4 in from flush on LSN
0.8MM iDLE
your almost dead on for my settings. Just go half more in on the hsn. And what I like to do after I get the needles set is to recheck the idle gap. Take off air cleaner and venturie and recheck!! I have found that most times my idle gap has increased slightly. I know you can lower it with out going through all that hassle,but as touchy as these get I like to be sure.
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Old 07-21-2010 | 12:11 PM
  #11195  
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
your almost dead on for my settings. Just go half more in on the hsn. And what I like to do after I get the needles set is to recheck the idle gap. Take off air cleaner and venturie and recheck!! I have found that most times my idle gap has increased slightly. I know you can lower it with out going through all that hassle,but as touchy as these get I like to be sure.
to be 100% certain do you mean 1/2 hour more or 1/2 a turn?
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Old 07-21-2010 | 01:33 PM
  #11196  
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Originally Posted by kevinjh
to be 100% certain do you mean 1/2 hour more or 1/2 a turn?
1/2 turn. One full turn in from flush for hsn,and 1.25-1.50 in for lsn. I am using byrons gen2 30% with a shim stack of .3mm for a total of .6mm[.3mm built in already] This is after break in,the shim stack. after you get it running good then I do the needles by the hour method. But to be honest it's the lsn that I ever need to touch,and that is very rarely.
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Old 07-22-2010 | 08:14 AM
  #11197  
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Originally Posted by kevinjh
1/2 turn from flush in on HSN
1 1/2 - 1 3/4 in from flush on LSN
0.8MM iDLE
I would try maybe leaning your HSN just a couple hours and come out on your LSN. I race in south Louisiana a lot (similar) elevation and temps/humidity using 30% with stock shimming and I have to run my LSN almost flush or else I will get lean bog. My HSN is around 3/4 turn in from flush.

Check your idle gap again just to be sure it is right,
Make sure car is at operating temp (around 200F is good),
richen your LSN until your idle starts to drop (indicates getting pretty rich)
put the car on the track and run it up and down the straight until it clears out at top end (should still have a good smoke trail though)
Once you reach the point where it will not get any faster on top richen up the HSN 1/2 hour
Go back to your LSN, it will still be fat but not as fat because you have restricted overall fuel flow by leaning the HSN.
Now lean the LSN until you get a steady but not crazy (controllable) takeoff and rise through the power band.
next thing to do is run a couple laps checking for a good smoke trail and performance
bring the car in and check the temps 220-280 is pretty common
now blip the throttle a few times to clear it out and then let the car idle. The idle should be steady and it should start to drop after about 20-30 seconds or so.
The only thing left to do now is fine tune your idle slighlty to where you like it and GO have fun.

This is the way I do it anyway.
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Old 07-22-2010 | 04:16 PM
  #11198  
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Sounds like a good plan to me Matrix Especially leaving the LSN a tad rich, as you are normally going to need to lean the top end a little 99% of the time. By doing this it should all fall into place nicely without too much needle tweaking.
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Old 07-22-2010 | 11:54 PM
  #11199  
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will give this a go over the weekend, thank you
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Old 07-23-2010 | 12:13 AM
  #11200  
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My GO GX-5R runs great!


Last edited by BSchorr; 07-23-2010 at 12:52 AM.
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Old 07-23-2010 | 12:37 AM
  #11201  
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nice paint work
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Old 07-23-2010 | 11:27 PM
  #11202  
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Default Great engine

I have not been on for a while but just wanted to add, I have the MG66 and now that I have figured out this tuning caper (cost me a lost pinch but that was only due to my poor tuning skills) the engine is a fantastic performer.
I listen to all the comments of "Tune to performance - not temp" and now that I have my head around that I am happy
You see my engine runs at 135 degrees C, all day everyday, yet it blows a constant trail of blue smoke right through the rev range.
I manage about 10 - 11 minutes per tank on my local track.
Last Saturday I through teh TX at a couple of other racers and told them to "give it a go" I was looking for feedback as my driving skills are pretty poor, I wanted feedback on what I should adjust on teh car for better performance.
Both run high end (expensive) Italian motors, first comments from both of them was "Your certainly not lacking in the power department"
Turns out I need to look at thicker oil in rear diff (car is always fishtailing after a corner), I had learnt to compensate for this by easing gently into the throttle.

Mark may be getting some calls from up Alice Springs way
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Old 07-23-2010 | 11:46 PM
  #11203  
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Originally Posted by boxhead
I have not been on for a while but just wanted to add, I have the MG66 and now that I have figured out this tuning caper (cost me a lost pinch but that was only due to my poor tuning skills) the engine is a fantastic performer.
I listen to all the comments of "Tune to performance - not temp" and now that I have my head around that I am happy
You see my engine runs at 135 degrees C, all day everyday, yet it blows a constant trail of blue smoke right through the rev range.
I manage about 10 - 11 minutes per tank on my local track.
Last Saturday I through teh TX at a couple of other racers and told them to "give it a go" I was looking for feedback as my driving skills are pretty poor, I wanted feedback on what I should adjust on teh car for better performance.
Both run high end (expensive) Italian motors, first comments from both of them was "Your certainly not lacking in the power department"
Turns out I need to look at thicker oil in rear diff (car is always fishtailing after a corner), I had learnt to compensate for this by easing gently into the throttle.

Mark may be getting some calls from up Alice Springs way
Hey that's great news man. Glad your liking the MG66
The long needle carb is a little different, but once you get the hang of it it's plain sailing and great performance.
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Old 07-23-2010 | 11:59 PM
  #11204  
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mmmmmmmm massive
onya boxhead, i know were your coming from in the driving skills department, but this motor is awesome
& with support from flanno, grizz, mark & others u soon get on-top of tuning these little beauties & start enjoying the power that it has ! & ain't it got some
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Old 07-24-2010 | 12:10 AM
  #11205  
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Originally Posted by boxhead
I have not been on for a while but just wanted to add, I have the MG66 and now that I have figured out this tuning caper (cost me a lost pinch but that was only due to my poor tuning skills) the engine is a fantastic performer.
I listen to all the comments of "Tune to performance - not temp" and now that I have my head around that I am happy
You see my engine runs at 135 degrees C, all day everyday, yet it blows a constant trail of blue smoke right through the rev range.
I manage about 10 - 11 minutes per tank on my local track.
Last Saturday I through teh TX at a couple of other racers and told them to "give it a go" I was looking for feedback as my driving skills are pretty poor, I wanted feedback on what I should adjust on teh car for better performance.
Both run high end (expensive) Italian motors, first comments from both of them was "Your certainly not lacking in the power department"
Turns out I need to look at thicker oil in rear diff (car is always fishtailing after a corner), I had learnt to compensate for this by easing gently into the throttle.

Mark may be getting some calls from up Alice Springs way

Thats awesome.

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