the go_tech headers do fit fine but if you want a snug fit nova rossi make headers for these mate but i have yet to find one to look i have seen my mate has one and they do fit better

hay mate yea i got them yesterday and have put them on mate

[QUOTE=grizz1;6373749]Re the carb O rings. That gunge is quite common with the older factory O rings. It can get into the jet and cause problems. Get yourself some of the newer Nitrile O rings, or fit "fuel tubing" O rings. If you want I will send you a PM with instructions. Works a treat and lasts forever.

Hey Grizz thanks for the tip. I think I will buy some O rings from Massive Mods. Do you know where I can buy a new rob and wrist pin at for the .25 6 port?

massive will sell those to mate if you getting the orings get hose at the same time

Thats what I was going to do but they dont have the wrist pin I need and the one rod that they show on there said it fits all Go motors and Im just not to sure if its the right one for the .25.

Prettyboy yes this is true about the rods they are the same. If you need to run in the meantime use Grizz's fuel tube rings. No I havent ran at Hobby hut but a friend of mine does Doug, I will get over there sooner or later. I frequent Oakhillrcspeedway and hitothers not too far away either direction Medina ect. PM me I got some stuff to talk to you about.

I am keen to hear thoughts on clutch set up, i am using carbon shoes with 1.0 springs on both my 3 and 5pt motors. I like that they dont seem to wear out and dont put big grooves in the clutch bell. But after reading Grizz's post about seeming to bog out of corners it made me think, last time i raced I had a similar thing happen with my 3pt, i thought it was too lean on the bottom end but couldn't seem to tune it out,

i am thinking maybe as they wear they get lighter and so engage earlier possibly bogging the motor out of corners??

should i try running 1.1 springs with the carbon shoes or try some alloy ones?

I've got the go gx5r with go GX pipe.

I was trying to get a rod for my .25 and was told that the big end of the new go rods are a different size. So I would need to upgrade to a gen 5.5 rod and crank if I wanted to replace the rod. As the .25's are gen 4 engines and have the older rod and different sized big end rod and crank.
Hope that makes sense.

Hi TB, Put a set of alloy's with 1.1's on your 3 port, you will love it. That is what Paul runs on his 3 Port and it hauls. Stock 5 Port, for our track conditions try 2 x alloys with 1.1 springs and 1 x carbon with a 1.0 spring. spring. If that'a a bit too much, go for 2 x 1.0 springs and 1 x 1.1 spring with all alloys.
As the shoes get lighter they will engage a little later, not earlier. Less mass for the centrifugal force to act on, so they won't move until the clutch is spinning faster.
I always run alloys and the clutch bells seem to take it OK. I give the bell a quick spruce up inside with a bit of fine emery paper each time I take the bell off for any reason. This seems to keep the inside surface pretty smooth and groove free.

i run alloy shoes all round with 1mm springs , this is pretty much the only combo i use on the 3 port and will not bog down at all

I'm with grizz1 on this one..I'm now running 2 alloys with 1.1 springs and 1 carbon with a 1.0 spring in my 7 port,3 port and MG66 only difference is the MG66 will pull the higher 14/46 gearing while the others prefer the standard 13/46 setup..and I use k-factory hardened clutch bells and have never seen a groove inside one unless you let your shoes wear down so the springs engage with the bell..and if you do that you have no one to blame but yourself..k-factory sell under the name racers edge in the USA.

First run last weekend with the MG66,

went rather well was running hot at first so i richened it off a tad but come the 20min final it ran very well with no cuts and came off at 231F very happy as its only 18 tanks old!!

Came 5th in the A main only loosing to the National sponsored guys. So all in all very good start to my Go Carear

I found my MG66 prefers to be a tad richer than my 7 port at the top end..flush or just an hour in from flush..a hour + or - seems to make a big difference..and the same at the bottom end..just an hour in on the lsn changed my runtimes from 8m45 up to 9m50..I'm expecting 10m30 or more once I really start to race tune it..especially with the ceramics in..but for anyone tuning one of these..use a light hand.tiny adjustments are all that's needed.But once it's right it holds the tune forever and idles better than my car..

Hey guys my engine starts to lean out pretty bad after it's been running for about 2.5 tanks without shutting it down. It runs perfectly for two or three tanks, then temps start rising and engine starts lean stuttering and pitch changes (almost sounds like when you are about to run out of fuel) then finally dies. When this lean condition appears, richening the needles by a few hours is not enough to counteract it...

It shouldn't be an air leak as this is a new engine with about a gallon through it, and an air leak would cause more erratic behavior throughout the entire run.

Pressure line? Fuel filter? What should I look for? Followed the typical GO run-in procedure exactly.