Go-Tech Engines Thread
If that is a GO carb it must be a Gen 3 or older motor. Massive would know. I have not seen a carb like that on a GO in my experiance with the motors.
To be honest IMO - if it is a Gen 3 or earlier you would be better off with a new GX. The difference in technology and performance is huge.
To be honest IMO - if it is a Gen 3 or earlier you would be better off with a new GX. The difference in technology and performance is huge.
Hmm - I have only had experiance with GO's back as far as Gen 4. I am not 100% certain what would be interchangable going back any further than that. The new GX coated crank would be OK, plus I am pretty sure a new GX piston / rod / sleeve set would slip in too. The carb I am not sure. But once again - if you are going to buy a new crank, PRS etc, you may as well just get a new motor with the much improved GX carby, plus the spare rod etc that comes with it. Keep the motor you have a spare practice motor etc.
If it where a Gen 5 or 5.5, then it would probably be worth while, but if it is a Gen 3 or 2 we are talking pretty old technology there.
If it where a Gen 5 or 5.5, then it would probably be worth while, but if it is a Gen 3 or 2 we are talking pretty old technology there.
Thanks Jim
The later model (black case) motor will be a Gen 5.5. The 5.5 motors came out with a modified crank that had better balance and tolerances, plus a larger crank pin. Also comes with the newer 21-0600 Pro con rod to match the crank pin. Gen 5.5 carbs were also improved over previous models.
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Joined: Feb 2010
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Ruune, Gizmatron, Massivemods & Grizz1, a big thank you guys, got the GX5R running today and put a couple of tanks through it...........
Just like you guys said, used a drill bank to check the idle gap, both needles flush, leaned out the LSN to just achieve a decent idle, wrapped the head in foil.........so its getting there slowly but surely
Just have to check my EPA on the throttle servo as its not quite shutting off when returning to neutral
Just like you guys said, used a drill bank to check the idle gap, both needles flush, leaned out the LSN to just achieve a decent idle, wrapped the head in foil.........so its getting there slowly but surely
Just have to check my EPA on the throttle servo as its not quite shutting off when returning to neutral
Cheers MM
The All black carb is a Gen 5 , The gen 5 carb was just a tad nicer than the gen 4.5 on the silver case.
Run the new GX-7R or MG66 in your buggy and you won't look back. Just as powerful and probably smoother than what you have tried before - and much more affordable.
The later model (black case) motor will be a Gen 5.5. The 5.5 motors came out with a modified crank that had better balance and tolerances, plus a larger crank pin. Also comes with the newer 21-0600 Pro con rod to match the crank pin. Gen 5.5 carbs were also improved over previous models.
The later model (black case) motor will be a Gen 5.5. The 5.5 motors came out with a modified crank that had better balance and tolerances, plus a larger crank pin. Also comes with the newer 21-0600 Pro con rod to match the crank pin. Gen 5.5 carbs were also improved over previous models.
Alright thank you Im just gonna buy a new one motor and do you guys just use the GO PIPES with these motors and what kind of runtime
Hey grizz1 just to hark back to the earlier dispute about the change in conrod internal diameters but with the same part numbers...Ripped down my old MM5 7 port today and threw in a new TiNi coated gen 5.5 crank to replace the gen 5 that was in there and the con rod wouldn't fit..Now I had a spare of the new lightened knife edge rods so no problem there but I also had a slightly older but still nip of the older shape rods..And it fitted perfect.So there was a definte size change in the rods..I wasn't aware till today I had one of each ..Just as well I changed the wrist pin at the same time..then I dropped the bloody circlip...god I hate those things..There must be an easier way to hold the pin in ..argh

With the rods - it seems there was a few months at the end of the Gen 5 production were the factory made a few batches of the older shaped rods with the bigger big end bushings - either to fit the last of the old Gen 5's with a 5.5 crank fitted in the change over period, or to fit the new 5.5 motors until the newer 21-0600 Pro rod came into production (correct me if I'm off beam here Massive). These were the rods that the other boys had, and were measuring, thinkiing they had the standard old shaped Gen 4 - 5 rod (as you would), which is what caused all the confusion. But in short - yep, the "original" older style 28-0600 rods were just that little big smaller than the new 21-0600 ones in order to fit the smaller diameter crank pins on the older Gen motors.
Hey Gizzy, that JDV clutch with the 1.0 mm springs on the MG66 is the bee's knees man. Nice progressive engagement, real easy to drive. Worked awesome on the weekend


Run time is a tricky one, but fully run in with 6.5 restrictor and a nice tune should see 9 - 10 minutes no problem depending on trigger finger. Shim reduction and a real sweet tune will see more run time if you want to push the envelope
Last edited by grizz1; 03-07-2010 at 08:27 PM.
Run the new GX-7R or MG66 in your buggy and you won't look back. Just as powerful and probably smoother than what you have tried before - and much more affordable.
The later model (black case) motor will be a Gen 5.5. The 5.5 motors came out with a modified crank that had better balance and tolerances, plus a larger crank pin. Also comes with the newer 21-0600 Pro con rod to match the crank pin. Gen 5.5 carbs were also improved over previous models.
The later model (black case) motor will be a Gen 5.5. The 5.5 motors came out with a modified crank that had better balance and tolerances, plus a larger crank pin. Also comes with the newer 21-0600 Pro con rod to match the crank pin. Gen 5.5 carbs were also improved over previous models.
The Gen 5.5 (std) and GX Series (coated) cranks came out with a tolerance change only. No extra balance work.
The MG66 is the only motor with both the tolerance change and the balance work done on the coated crank, which explains why it rev's it's little head off and won't stop winding out
The JVD clutch is real nice eh grizz1..I only ran mine for a few meetings at the end of last season but the shoes show no wear at all..Having put the coated crank and wrist pin in my 7 port I think I'm going to buy a spare set of the xray upper motor mounts so I can swop it in if I need to do a motor change.I'm gonna buy a second JVD to fit that one too and pick up a spare set of shoes/springs at the same time..



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