Monty what is factory carb settings for the p5xs. thanks

with slide barrel out i set them at 3.5 - 3.75 out on the low end and 3.5-4 turns out on the high needle or roughly about flush dave .
everything ok ?

thanks chris

call or text if you have any questions bro

yeah everything is ok i was off on my tune alittle bet yesterday but all is good now. thanks

Will do. I had a quick question about how far you took the break in. Like did it's "nuts drop" or is that yet to come? LOL. But I'll give you a call later this evening.

I know the answer is burried somewhere within the 80 pages of this thread.....but what's the part number for the RB/Nova hex screw set for these engines?

I don't have a precission hollow ground slot head screwdriver that both fits the Nova head screws and fits through the holes in the head. I'd like to swap over to cap head screws on my Nova's and RB's. Guess I could order individual cap screws which match the slot head stockers. I'd rather get the set in the nice little bag. I think I remember seeing a set on Tony's screws page. I'll do some more research and edit this post if I find anything...


Maybe this'd be something to sell on your site Monty!

Edit:

Found the RB part # on Amain. They title it as 'backplate screws', but state it's a complete set of screws for the engine. $6.79 for nine screws....maybe I'll just get bags of cap screws for the heads and backplates alacart. Tony's a bit cheaper.

The RB part number for the set is: RBC01060-1

Tony's part # is: TS-NR21-4

the flathead screws are made flathead for a reason

Hey everyone, I recently decided to quit the hobby for a multitude of reason, but i wanted to pop on here one more time for Monty.

One could not ask for a more extensive tome of knowledge, or a better friend in this hobby. It boils down to grade-A customer service and knowledge, plus a grade-A friend who will take every opportunity to bend over backwards to help you out.

Just wanted to say thanks again to Monty, and everone else who has helped me along the way, it's been a hell of a trip

What is the reason? I was thinking of converting mine over to hexes as well.

Any one ever use dynmite pipes or are they just cheap ?

so you dont overtighten the screws and warp the block


granted the hex heads may be a little easier as you may already have the tools . the hudy tools are the best for nova disassembly , although i dont suggest you disassemble your engine unless you have experience at it and know what you are getting into

the dynamite pipes are the best pipe for the money

Houston
heard a lot of good things about your service when I was in the Region 9 roar race this weekend
I have tried ebmods extech and go and extech tuned motors and am still looking for a new tuner
I am not good at tuning my engines and was very disappointed with the extech trinity tuned bec the needles were set rich after being tuned which I dont understand

My questions are?
Do you tune the engines and then set the needles rich or race tuned?
What tuning do I have to do if I get a motor (since I really am bad at tuning) that I will use here in south texas?
What is the difference in power/runtimes with the novarossi n21fb and the plus 4?
I am not a beginner but always run my engines rich, I just dont want to buy an expensive engine and blow it up with poor tuning by me
thanks

Drrc, I can tell you the p5 that Monty(HES) sent me in this Mississippi weather all I had to do was lean the high speed by 1 hour that's it. So in my experience he's pretty darn close to a race tune. As far as the n21 vs. Plus 4 arguement, I own both and to me they are 2 totally different engines. For the money the n21 is by far the best engine for your dollar. It's more of a pull the throttle and here's the power, whereas the plus 4 has a very smooth power band across the board. Again this is just my personal experiences and if money wasn't an issue I'd go ahead and get the plus 4 but you can't go wrong with the n21 limited. Now, I'll let Monty step in and tell you the right answer to your questions...lol

A ham-fisted so-and-so can still apply more than enough torque to warp the block or strip threads with a good fitting slot head screwdriver. Other engine manufacturers get by just fine with hex head screws holding their engines together. If Novarossi realy didn't want neophites to overtorque their screws then they'd be better served using some obscure screw head type (such as a Torx) as the need to buy a new driver would discourage tampering. Glad they didn't do that...

By the same token, a person who knows what he's doing doesn't need a specific screw head type to keep him from buggering things up with too much torque. There's plenty of ways that a boob can destroy their engine without ever turning a fastener. A slot head screw also invites a knucklehead to use his Wal-Mart screwdriver set to work on his engine. A neophite wouldn't know that they need a hollow ground screwdriver to keep from stripping the screw heads anyways. "Heck, it's a flat head ain't it?"

I've disassembled my Nova, Picco, OS, and other engines several times over the last couple of decades, so I certainly know what I'm getting into. Every other screw on my cars (with the exception of the carb needles) are hex head. Either I have to buy a Hudy specialty screwdriver or I've gotta swap out to hex head screws on the Novas and RBs. Think I'll buy a couple of bags of socket head screws for the heads and backplates in bulk...