The TKO ceramic isn't that expensive.

http://tkocompetitiondev.com/shop/pr...roducts_id=157

Still $209 ---> http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16978

I just bought a .25 Go Tech for my Revo from some one local. I want to run either a roto start or pull start, havent made up my mind just yet. I got the new era mount, but i need the correct back plate that has the shaft that connects to the crank. I cant find it any where on line, Is there a back plate I can use from another motor that would work?

Thanks!

I think this is what you are looking for:
http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...roducts_id=110

What country are you in? You might have to contact a GO distributor in your country.

hey guys what is the best motor for a buggy 7 or 5 port?

7 IMO. It wraps out like there's no RPM limit and has tons of bottom end.

I agree with Furadi - the 7 port rocks in buggy. A lot of guys run the 5 ports in buggy but they are pretty savage down low. The 7 port has massive bottom end too, but it is more controllable for a buggy. The top end - well no shortage of that with the 7 port IMO go with the 7 port and 0801 pipe, you will be very happy

I'm looking for the o ring that seals the top of the carb neck to the crankcase not the brown bottom one. Will a nova or RB o ring work I see amainhobbies has none of the GO o rings. Racefactor is hooking me up with a new carb to replace the loose one. Thanks guys.

Hi
I have a 5 port .21 GO with a standard head and I'm running 15% Nitro in her.

Does this motor come shimmed for 15 - 20% Nitro or 30% ?

Sorry if this Q has been asked a dozen times before.... just no time to go looking. Sorry.

British Menace

They come shimmed for 30% out of the box. You will be much better off changing from the 15%. Run 25% and you will notice a big improvement in all around performance. These motors love a good dose of nitro

I recently picked up a go 21 sport motor for my son and I was wondering if I should breake it in like they or should I break it in like they say for the other go 21s?

Using the same method as for the 5 and 7 ports will be fine. The break in should be a litttle easier as the sport motor won't have the same extreme metal pinch as the racing motors. Do the 12 tanks as suggested in the break in method on page 78 of this forum, but be aware the needle settings will most likely be different. Just find a nice rich setting that will give the correct temps when the head is foiled with plenty of raw fuel coming out the stinger and go from there as described in the thread. Enjoy

Thanks, i'll try it.

Thanks that is part of what I am looking for.

I also need the other back plate that goes to the motor its self. It has the shaft sticking out of it where the OWB connect to it. THen the roto start back plate connects to that.

I'll check with a distributor in the US and see if they can sell me that part.

Thanks!

+1