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07-29-2008 | 02:53 PM

#3961

grizz1

Tech Elite

Joined: Nov 2007

Posts: 2,983

From: Auckland, New Zealand

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chedster

.7mm-1mm seems like a starting point. Adjust to proper idle then when you fire it up.

I shaved some off the ends of the pich bolt but it did not stop the carb wiggle. Now You can feel it tighten down on the carb neck but it's still not tight for some reason. I went ahead and sealed it up and will finish break-in and may contact racefactor about it. Thanks for the help guys.

Idle gap should be set at .7 - 1mm. Then tune engine HSN then LSN. When you have the LSN set spot on and idle is steady, then adjust the idle gap if neccessary to achieve the idle speed you want. It is important you set the needles, especialy the LSN with this .7 - 1mm gap for a proper tune and performance, otherwise you run into the problem of a false tune with a rich LSN and a lean HSN but the motor will still run reasonable (with associated problems) - all due to the idle gap being too wide. Hope this all makes sense

07-29-2008 | 04:09 PM

#3962

Chedster

Tech Apprentice

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From: Bend Oregon

I emailed Racefactor about my loose carb and they said to Jb weld it myself or I could send it in to be done. I would rather do it myself so I do not have to pay shipping on it. I would rather just exchange if for a new motor but oh well. Anyone have any tips on welding it on there.

07-29-2008 | 05:54 PM

#3963

grizz1

Tech Elite

Joined: Nov 2007

Posts: 2,983

From: Auckland, New Zealand

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chedster

Check out page 127 on this thread about 2/3 of the way down the page.
User name "scwrod" describes the process and associated info

07-29-2008 | 06:39 PM

#3964

Chedster

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From: Bend Oregon

Since the Gen5 motors no longer have the plastic sleeve how the heck do I get the hole and carb neck to Jb weld?

Last edited by Chedster; 07-29-2008 at 08:50 PM.

07-29-2008 | 07:48 PM

#3965

Furadi

Tech Fanatic

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 765

From: Boise

Quote:

Originally Posted by grizz1

Had a similar thing happen on one of the 5 ports I owned. Just shaved a few thou of each pinch bolt end as MM suggested and it worked sweet as. Check the bottom carb "O" ring (the brown one in the crankcase body) before you reassemble, as the movement you have been experiancing in the carb can sometimes chew this "O" ring up a bit. Now you have a better fit with the pinch bolts just remember not to do them up too tight, or you can damage the carb throat.

I'm having the same issue with my 7 port? Just tried shaving the pinch bolts and it still wiggles. What gives?

07-29-2008 | 08:24 PM

#3966

Tree

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From: Murrieta, California

I have a couple of like new Go Tech carbs. PM me if interested.

07-30-2008 | 01:44 AM

#3967

grizz1

Tech Elite

Joined: Nov 2007

Posts: 2,983

From: Auckland, New Zealand

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chedster

Since the Gen5 motors no longer have the plastic sleeve how the heck do I get the hole and carb neck to Jb weld?

Sorry guys, didn't realise we were talking about the new Gen 5 carbs here

Out of ideas on that one I'm afraid. Haven't laid eyes on a Gen 5 motor yet

07-30-2008 | 03:31 AM

#3968

mutley001

Tech Addict

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Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 676

From: Kent, UK

Hi Guys,

I have a problem with my go 21 3 port sport engine, when running it makes an intermittant "rattle" sound that is definately coming from the engine not the car. I'm pretty new to nitro and have never taken an engine apart before, I've read up about it but if any of you guys might have an idea what it could be before i start work stripping it down that would be fantastic!

Cheers

Paul

07-30-2008 | 06:50 AM

#3969

aznitronut

Tech Elite

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Posts: 2,486

From: Phx. Az

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chedster

Since the Gen5 motors no longer have the plastic sleeve how the heck do I get the hole and carb neck to Jb weld?

If you are talking about JB weld on the insert to the carb, not to the engine, cause you will never be able to remove the carb. The insert that goes over the carb end, that goes inside the engine, screws onto the carb, just back it off, use just a small amount of JB weld onto the carb, then screw the insert back onto the carb,

07-30-2008 | 02:44 PM

#3970

Logie

Tech Rookie

Joined: Jul 2008

Posts: 3

From: Wales (UK)

Anyone know what mm the standard carb insert is with the Go .21 5 port? Thanks in advance.

07-30-2008 | 03:14 PM

#3971

mugenb46

Tech Master

iTrader: (4)

Joined: Jun 2006

Posts: 1,385

From: springfield tn

Quote:

Originally Posted by Logie

Anyone know what mm the standard carb insert is with the Go .21 5 port? Thanks in advance.

8mm

07-30-2008 | 03:21 PM

#3972

Tabushi

Tech Elite

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Posts: 3,061

From: Chile - Southamerica

Small video of my .25 mounted on truggy. Small race this weekend, TQ'ed and leading the race until a marshall busted my truck lol !! its on video !! :

http://www.revver.com/video/1073224/...actions-shots/

hope you enjoy ... im the pink truck ...

cya,

07-30-2008 | 03:31 PM

#3973

grizz1

Tech Elite

Joined: Nov 2007

Posts: 2,983

From: Auckland, New Zealand

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tabushi

Man, what a bummer. He took you right out !!!! Truggy was sounding hot too

07-30-2008 | 03:37 PM

#3974

Chedster

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Posts: 80

From: Bend Oregon

I found that the carb is wiggling were the carb neck goes into the carb main body. I see no way to unscrew it to Jb weld it. Any ideas?

Attached Thumbnails

07-30-2008 | 03:46 PM

#3975

dski

Tech Fanatic

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Joined: Apr 2008

Posts: 770

From: Minneapolis

Quote:

Originally Posted by grizz1

It is important you set the needles, especialy the LSN with this .7 - 1mm gap for a proper tune and performance, otherwise you run into the problem of a false tune with a rich LSN and a lean HSN but the motor will still run reasonable (with associated problems) - all due to the idle gap being too wide. Hope this all makes sense

I had this exact issue as my idle gap was a little high.... setting the gap to .7mm made a huge improvement.