The same thing just happened to me today! I'm loosing faith in the GO. My 7 port just shit the pot after just over 1.5 gallons. Wouldn't start before the main. This is the second P/S/R id put through this POS. The first one tossed a wrist pin clip and chewed it up after just 2 gal. I'm pissed! I babied both of the damned things during break in using all the expert advise of all the gurus in the RC Tech Go thread. Spent hours heating it and breaking them in for a gallon. Pulled the break in shim after 1.25 gal. Only got one race out of the second P/S/R and now I have a GEN 5 7 port in the box still and I'm thinking about selling it before I put myself through more greif!

Think Racefactor will hook me up? What do I do?

racefactor might do something. My friend just bought a brand new 7 port turbo 21. and had a glitch and it took off jumped a tube and landed on its roof. The INEXPERIENCED turn marshall just sat there and let it rev out untill someone else came over and shut it off. That 20 seconds or so of revving a motor that only had about a 3/4 gallon wore that piston and sleeve out as you could imagine. So they are hooking me up at dealer cost. they are great people.

In my experience , if you need a " favor " its best to contact that person PRIOR to rubbishing their product in a public forum.
Sometimes a malfunction is user error and its sad to blame a product when this occurs.

So just as a general tip if you ever have a problem with a product , no matter what it is , its wise to give the sales point or distributor the opportunity to fix it , if indeed its a warranty related issue prior to making them and their product look bad. And by all means if they dont give you the time of day , then go and tell the world.

Throwing a gudgeon pin retaining clip is not unique to Go engines , it indeed happens on any nitro engine.

Regards MM

skeller you have a pm

some guys need to put this in perspective, you guys are acting like youve spent $400 for these engines.They are$200 people, what happened to the days that for $200 the most power you could get was an os RG.

IMO dont waste time on the perfect breakin just heat cycle it a few times and hammerdown, if it blows at least youll be running it full wood not waiting two gallons for metal pinch to pass.

that being said ive been hammering on mine and have no complaints other than the lsn is a little sensitive, frankly it tunes better and runs just as hard as my jpx.21s

i hear ya these motors are GREAT. yeah they may have some problems but so do all the others. no more will i pay $400+ for a motor these are all i will run for now on.

General Tuning Guide

less is more..

Hi All just wanting to give you a general tuning guide to help with your Go Engine as part of the support for Go Engine Users .

Lets assume the engine has had its first litre or quart . if you are tuning a Pro Go Engine then please realise that it will not be fully broken in till the 4 litre or 1 US Gal mark.

It is important not to tune for max HSN tune till that point.

First things first , Equipment needed Tuning screw driver , temp gun and a hammer . Please get the temp gun and place it on a firm surface , grab the hammer and repeatedly bash the temp gun till its pretty safe to say it dosent work any more ( you may want to use safety glasses ) .. This will help make your tuning more accurate..

Check to see all seals are air tight. tank , carb, exhaust etc. Do NOT tune an engine if you have a leak from any one of these places.

first start engine and run on desired surface ( surface change will chagne tuning ) This will be the tune for that desired surface , if you tune on Clay and then run on grass you will need to richen for high traction .. And again if you change from a low grip tyre to a high grip tyre you will need to change it again .. Then factor ambient temps and air density .. Tuning in the morning to mid day to afternoon will change your tune again so please keep this in mind. Cold air Richer setting , Hot air Leaner Setting .. generally speaking ..

Run at least 1 tank from start to finish . engines will not reach full heat till the 3rd tank generally.

then tune HSN for clean acceleration for the entirety of the tank . if you sag in power at half tank , richen 2/8 on HSN . Whats happening is lean bog .. internal Crank case heat will atomise fuel more readily and cause this to happen . This is why you should NEVER tune a cold engine..

ok while engine is still hot listen to the idle and adjust to an acceptable setting.. then run engine again for half a tank.. pinch fuel tube and count to 4 engine SHOULD idle up slightly die by 5 ... if it dies before this richen , if it takes too long, lean .. Please use very small incriments for this .. LSN can be sensitive ..

Please note that when you change your IDLE gap you are in effect changing your LSN as well .. so you need to balance the relationship . When you increase idle gap you are pushing the LSN out from the spray bar .. this will in effect slightly richen the LSN setting and vise versa ... Its not a huge factor but it will make a difference.

Ok once you think you have it right , then run a few tanks from start to finish . it should perform well all through the tank .. NOW DONT TOUCH THE TUNE ! if it goes out there are 2 reasons .. Your needles are loose or you have an external problem sepperate to the engine ie Plug , Pressure Leak , Binding etc etc .. When something changes , shut the engine down and find out why ...

Dont try to tune out a binding problem with your clutch by tuning your HSN ...



Hope this helps !

Cheers MM

www.massivemods.com

first of all sorry to hear about the crank but it's definately the first I've heard of it on a Go I had it happen on a couple of Sirio's but never a GO but Im
why would you only replace the piston even if you got it fo free as that could be the start of all your problems. did you re runin your engine after replacing it or were you straight back into race tune

You should always replace the sleave with the piston just to make sure of their compatibilty all it takes is a slight difference in the sizes and your in for big problems and for the price of the Go parts why would you not do P-S-R.

In my experience trying to do things by halves just costs you more in the long run

Adrian

+1

as an example, i was modding a .25 for JazJato, and noticed a misshaped wrist pin holder under the piston, where the pin slides into, of course the first thing i did was call racefactor, then the customer to inform of the issue so the factory will be aware of it.

Since racefactor didn't have just a piston, which is all i needed, Jaz has now gotton a brand new .25, complete brand new engine. A+ in my book

I have always had my number in my sig, if anyone needs help tunning, call me, i don't mind doing what i can to see you guys happy with these mills, they have been very strong and reliable for me.

LMAO

Ive got a little over a gallon on my 7 port turbo and decided to take it apart to give it a good cleaning and such. When I took both the LSN and HSN's out, It looked like there was what appeared to be the remnants of an oring on both. There was still one oring on each needle and in good shape, but is there supposed to be two orings on each needle? If not, where could this other 'junk' have came from.

Also, how do I tell if my LSN is the newer, shorter needle?

Look a page or 2 back, there is a pic of the short and long needle side by side.

Rex

Just picked up a 25 6 prot with the turbo opption. I am not sure if I am goingto run turbo or not. I am running it in my x-ray truggy, and any advise on this would be appreciated.

^Run turbo if you can plugs are a little more spendy but worth it.

Today I ran about 6 more tanks thru my gen5 .21 5 port for a total of 8 or 9 tanks. The first 4 tanks went perfect. idled 1st and ran figure eights for the other three everthing was great temp wise (240). Today I went to track and ran three more tanks in fig 8s then started to putt it around the track. Temps were high around 260-280. I was blowing alot of smoke so I know its not lean. It was also a little erratic at times so I was thinking airleak but everything looks fine I even sealed the engine when I first got. I also noticed the carb wiggles. I know I did not overtighten and It cant really be tightned anymore. Should I call racefactor about it? This engine does have gobs of power though no problem launching the big tabletop. Just need to work it out for next weekends race. Thanks guys

i agree with that
i had a problem with the carb on my 7 port ...
emailed russel at race factor ....he said send it in ...i did ......he sent it back ....with a new style carb ....runs like a champ ...
obtw .......he did this at the 4 gallon mark .......

mm .... have you gotten a chance to mod a gotech since you initially did it the first time?