2LikesGo-Tech Engines Thread
thx
06-15-2008 | 08:10 PM
#3184
06-15-2008 | 08:13 PM
#3185
06-15-2008 | 08:16 PM
#3186
06-15-2008 | 08:23 PM
#3188
06-15-2008 | 08:25 PM
#3189
06-15-2008 | 08:32 PM
#3192
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 84
Brian (mugenb46),
I had a hell of time finding this old post. I think this is the one grizz1 recommended:
==================================
GO engine breakin
there are alot of ways to breakin a engine and alot of different opinions on which way is right. I use what i think is somewhat aggressive style, but it still gets adequate fuel through the motor without killing the rod and piston.
Needle setting out of the box. where ever it is set, i always putthe HSN flush or even a hour abouve fluch, and the LSN 1 1/2 turns in from flush, this makes idle during breakin consistant and idles well with good temp, when temps drop the motor will let you know, it makes a very distinctive pinging or tinking noise, the sleeve is shrinking and killing the piston and rod, low heat during breakin is the #1 contributer to broke wrist pin tabs on GO pistons, and the high rpms later on. good heat during breakin will keep good compresion in the motor in the later galloms of the motors life with out being to tight. and will hold a good idle at race temps.
Installing the engine.
After run oil is great. I soak the inside with it befor putting it on the car, let the extra run out the exaust port onto a rag, but be prepared for some smoke on start up. once you have the engine in the car and the exaUST on you are ready for some blowing, yes blowing. Blow in to the stinger of the pipe, you will see fuel going through the lines and into the carb, you can hear it enter the carb making a bubbly noise, when the fuel goes into the carb do it for about 2 seconds after that, then lift the car and turn the flywheel back and forth, this will basicly prime the engine without any dry rotation and coat the inside and also give a faster charge of fuel to help it start up, but heat it first, use foil on the head and preheat the engine with the plug just a tic loose, heat it to about 240 and crank it, remember you have fuel in the carb already so if needed you can apply some throttle to help it get going, just not alot, it doesn't take much with the LSN being set where it is, once it fires tighten the plug and go right to watching the temp, on the first tank keep it at 24o or so the entire tank, then return to BDC and let it cool to about 115.
Now is when i put the car on the ground, i adjust my idle screw to help when applying break not to close the carb. Now that the first tank has been done i start from one and go from here with foil still on the head and my needle settings.
Tanks 1 -6 idle to 1/2 throttle
lean LSN 1 hour and turn down idle screw
Tanks 7 - 12 idle to full throttle easy RPM climb
Go to the track and race tune from there, the HSN may only get turned 2 hours, but the low end will go farther, this setting will give great snap on the bottom and a good transistion to mid and top with good smoke the whole way. when you get to the track pull off the foil and go, if the temp go to 240 260 during 7 - 12 it's fine the settings are still fat you will see how much by the smoke, with this breakin the power robbing pinch will go in about a gallon. after that mark the temps will fall and the final race tune settings can be applied, trying to lean the engine with alot of metal pinch can cause iot to lean bog, flush the HS and lean the LS and the temps will be normal 3 or 4 hours leaning on a tight motor will not work during breakin, with these setting out of the box and changed to what i use the engine will be slightly blubbery on top but be able to get the car moving pretty easy off the bottom.
=============================
Do you still recommend this procedure for breaking-in a 3port race(not 08 version...but brand new) and a 5 port 08 version?
Since I couldn't find this post early enough, I went ahead and broke-in my 3port (mentioned above) using the Racefactor break-in procedure.
My 5port 08 version will be coming in some time this week.
Thanks.
I had a hell of time finding this old post. I think this is the one grizz1 recommended:
==================================
GO engine breakin
there are alot of ways to breakin a engine and alot of different opinions on which way is right. I use what i think is somewhat aggressive style, but it still gets adequate fuel through the motor without killing the rod and piston.
Needle setting out of the box. where ever it is set, i always putthe HSN flush or even a hour abouve fluch, and the LSN 1 1/2 turns in from flush, this makes idle during breakin consistant and idles well with good temp, when temps drop the motor will let you know, it makes a very distinctive pinging or tinking noise, the sleeve is shrinking and killing the piston and rod, low heat during breakin is the #1 contributer to broke wrist pin tabs on GO pistons, and the high rpms later on. good heat during breakin will keep good compresion in the motor in the later galloms of the motors life with out being to tight. and will hold a good idle at race temps.
Installing the engine.
After run oil is great. I soak the inside with it befor putting it on the car, let the extra run out the exaust port onto a rag, but be prepared for some smoke on start up. once you have the engine in the car and the exaUST on you are ready for some blowing, yes blowing. Blow in to the stinger of the pipe, you will see fuel going through the lines and into the carb, you can hear it enter the carb making a bubbly noise, when the fuel goes into the carb do it for about 2 seconds after that, then lift the car and turn the flywheel back and forth, this will basicly prime the engine without any dry rotation and coat the inside and also give a faster charge of fuel to help it start up, but heat it first, use foil on the head and preheat the engine with the plug just a tic loose, heat it to about 240 and crank it, remember you have fuel in the carb already so if needed you can apply some throttle to help it get going, just not alot, it doesn't take much with the LSN being set where it is, once it fires tighten the plug and go right to watching the temp, on the first tank keep it at 24o or so the entire tank, then return to BDC and let it cool to about 115.
Now is when i put the car on the ground, i adjust my idle screw to help when applying break not to close the carb. Now that the first tank has been done i start from one and go from here with foil still on the head and my needle settings.
Tanks 1 -6 idle to 1/2 throttle
lean LSN 1 hour and turn down idle screw
Tanks 7 - 12 idle to full throttle easy RPM climb
Go to the track and race tune from there, the HSN may only get turned 2 hours, but the low end will go farther, this setting will give great snap on the bottom and a good transistion to mid and top with good smoke the whole way. when you get to the track pull off the foil and go, if the temp go to 240 260 during 7 - 12 it's fine the settings are still fat you will see how much by the smoke, with this breakin the power robbing pinch will go in about a gallon. after that mark the temps will fall and the final race tune settings can be applied, trying to lean the engine with alot of metal pinch can cause iot to lean bog, flush the HS and lean the LS and the temps will be normal 3 or 4 hours leaning on a tight motor will not work during breakin, with these setting out of the box and changed to what i use the engine will be slightly blubbery on top but be able to get the car moving pretty easy off the bottom.
=============================
Do you still recommend this procedure for breaking-in a 3port race(not 08 version...but brand new) and a 5 port 08 version?
Since I couldn't find this post early enough, I went ahead and broke-in my 3port (mentioned above) using the Racefactor break-in procedure.
My 5port 08 version will be coming in some time this week.
Thanks.
06-15-2008 | 08:48 PM
#3193
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 93
I did mine this way.
To use the wide open throttle method, the engine should be tuned extremely rich. Before starting the engine for the first time, wrap the head in a few layers of Aluminum foil, or layers of a sock. Use natural fibers socks like cotton or wool - artificial fibers could melt. Either have the car on a starter box or a piece of wood so the wheels don't touch the ground. Preheat the block of the engine to ~200F/93C, then start the engine. Pull the throttle slowly to wide open throttle, making certain the engine does not clear out. It should be 4-cycling and the wheels should barely be turning. Add heat to the engine with the heat gun to keep the engine over 200F/93C. Run through the entire tank and let the engine cool with the piston at bottom dead center, otherwise it could get stuck as the cylinder contracts. Repeat this process four times, then remove the foil and lean the high-speed needle so the engine is only slightly rich. Run gently for a tank or two, then tune for performance.
5-6tanks
then
You get the car up off the ground and let it idle to 160F. Once it gets to 160, you richen the HSN 1-2 full turns and go WOT. The massive amount of fuel and oil will cool the engine to 120F. You then put the needle back to factory and let the car idle to 170F. Once at 170F, you richen the HSN 1-2 turns again and go WOT until the engine hits 120F. You repeat this method for 180F, 190F and then 200F. Once you finish the cycle to 200F, the first part of break in is done. Then you get the car on the ground and run it. You start carefully tuning the engine up 1/12 turn on needles at a time very slowly, carefully controlling the temperature and making sure temp stabilizes before you tune again. You repeat this until the engine is tuned where you want it. You basically run the whole break in with 8 tanks of fuel and basically without ever turning the engine off.
for another 5-6 tanks..
took about 1/2g...I just need to break in the other 1/2 at slow easy throttle pulls .then ill start race tunning..
first time doing it like this..so far so good.
To use the wide open throttle method, the engine should be tuned extremely rich. Before starting the engine for the first time, wrap the head in a few layers of Aluminum foil, or layers of a sock. Use natural fibers socks like cotton or wool - artificial fibers could melt. Either have the car on a starter box or a piece of wood so the wheels don't touch the ground. Preheat the block of the engine to ~200F/93C, then start the engine. Pull the throttle slowly to wide open throttle, making certain the engine does not clear out. It should be 4-cycling and the wheels should barely be turning. Add heat to the engine with the heat gun to keep the engine over 200F/93C. Run through the entire tank and let the engine cool with the piston at bottom dead center, otherwise it could get stuck as the cylinder contracts. Repeat this process four times, then remove the foil and lean the high-speed needle so the engine is only slightly rich. Run gently for a tank or two, then tune for performance.
5-6tanks
then
You get the car up off the ground and let it idle to 160F. Once it gets to 160, you richen the HSN 1-2 full turns and go WOT. The massive amount of fuel and oil will cool the engine to 120F. You then put the needle back to factory and let the car idle to 170F. Once at 170F, you richen the HSN 1-2 turns again and go WOT until the engine hits 120F. You repeat this method for 180F, 190F and then 200F. Once you finish the cycle to 200F, the first part of break in is done. Then you get the car on the ground and run it. You start carefully tuning the engine up 1/12 turn on needles at a time very slowly, carefully controlling the temperature and making sure temp stabilizes before you tune again. You repeat this until the engine is tuned where you want it. You basically run the whole break in with 8 tanks of fuel and basically without ever turning the engine off.
for another 5-6 tanks..
took about 1/2g...I just need to break in the other 1/2 at slow easy throttle pulls .then ill start race tunning..
first time doing it like this..so far so good.
06-15-2008 | 08:50 PM
#3194
Brian (mugenb46),
I had a hell of time finding this old post. I think this is the one grizz1 recommended:
==================================
GO engine breakin
there are alot of ways to breakin a engine and alot of different opinions on which way is right. I use what i think is somewhat aggressive style, but it still gets adequate fuel through the motor without killing the rod and piston.
Needle setting out of the box. where ever it is set, i always putthe HSN flush or even a hour abouve fluch, and the LSN 1 1/2 turns in from flush, this makes idle during breakin consistant and idles well with good temp, when temps drop the motor will let you know, it makes a very distinctive pinging or tinking noise, the sleeve is shrinking and killing the piston and rod, low heat during breakin is the #1 contributer to broke wrist pin tabs on GO pistons, and the high rpms later on. good heat during breakin will keep good compresion in the motor in the later galloms of the motors life with out being to tight. and will hold a good idle at race temps.
Installing the engine.
After run oil is great. I soak the inside with it befor putting it on the car, let the extra run out the exaust port onto a rag, but be prepared for some smoke on start up. once you have the engine in the car and the exaUST on you are ready for some blowing, yes blowing. Blow in to the stinger of the pipe, you will see fuel going through the lines and into the carb, you can hear it enter the carb making a bubbly noise, when the fuel goes into the carb do it for about 2 seconds after that, then lift the car and turn the flywheel back and forth, this will basicly prime the engine without any dry rotation and coat the inside and also give a faster charge of fuel to help it start up, but heat it first, use foil on the head and preheat the engine with the plug just a tic loose, heat it to about 240 and crank it, remember you have fuel in the carb already so if needed you can apply some throttle to help it get going, just not alot, it doesn't take much with the LSN being set where it is, once it fires tighten the plug and go right to watching the temp, on the first tank keep it at 24o or so the entire tank, then return to BDC and let it cool to about 115.
Now is when i put the car on the ground, i adjust my idle screw to help when applying break not to close the carb. Now that the first tank has been done i start from one and go from here with foil still on the head and my needle settings.
Tanks 1 -6 idle to 1/2 throttle
lean LSN 1 hour and turn down idle screw
Tanks 7 - 12 idle to full throttle easy RPM climb
Go to the track and race tune from there, the HSN may only get turned 2 hours, but the low end will go farther, this setting will give great snap on the bottom and a good transistion to mid and top with good smoke the whole way. when you get to the track pull off the foil and go, if the temp go to 240 260 during 7 - 12 it's fine the settings are still fat you will see how much by the smoke, with this breakin the power robbing pinch will go in about a gallon. after that mark the temps will fall and the final race tune settings can be applied, trying to lean the engine with alot of metal pinch can cause iot to lean bog, flush the HS and lean the LS and the temps will be normal 3 or 4 hours leaning on a tight motor will not work during breakin, with these setting out of the box and changed to what i use the engine will be slightly blubbery on top but be able to get the car moving pretty easy off the bottom.
=============================
Do you still recommend this procedure for breaking-in a 3port race(not 08 version...but brand new) and a 5 port 08 version?
Since I couldn't find this post early enough, I went ahead and broke-in my 3port (mentioned above) using the Racefactor break-in procedure.
My 5port 08 version will be coming in some time this week.
Thanks.
I had a hell of time finding this old post. I think this is the one grizz1 recommended:
==================================
GO engine breakin
there are alot of ways to breakin a engine and alot of different opinions on which way is right. I use what i think is somewhat aggressive style, but it still gets adequate fuel through the motor without killing the rod and piston.
Needle setting out of the box. where ever it is set, i always putthe HSN flush or even a hour abouve fluch, and the LSN 1 1/2 turns in from flush, this makes idle during breakin consistant and idles well with good temp, when temps drop the motor will let you know, it makes a very distinctive pinging or tinking noise, the sleeve is shrinking and killing the piston and rod, low heat during breakin is the #1 contributer to broke wrist pin tabs on GO pistons, and the high rpms later on. good heat during breakin will keep good compresion in the motor in the later galloms of the motors life with out being to tight. and will hold a good idle at race temps.
Installing the engine.
After run oil is great. I soak the inside with it befor putting it on the car, let the extra run out the exaust port onto a rag, but be prepared for some smoke on start up. once you have the engine in the car and the exaUST on you are ready for some blowing, yes blowing. Blow in to the stinger of the pipe, you will see fuel going through the lines and into the carb, you can hear it enter the carb making a bubbly noise, when the fuel goes into the carb do it for about 2 seconds after that, then lift the car and turn the flywheel back and forth, this will basicly prime the engine without any dry rotation and coat the inside and also give a faster charge of fuel to help it start up, but heat it first, use foil on the head and preheat the engine with the plug just a tic loose, heat it to about 240 and crank it, remember you have fuel in the carb already so if needed you can apply some throttle to help it get going, just not alot, it doesn't take much with the LSN being set where it is, once it fires tighten the plug and go right to watching the temp, on the first tank keep it at 24o or so the entire tank, then return to BDC and let it cool to about 115.
Now is when i put the car on the ground, i adjust my idle screw to help when applying break not to close the carb. Now that the first tank has been done i start from one and go from here with foil still on the head and my needle settings.
Tanks 1 -6 idle to 1/2 throttle
lean LSN 1 hour and turn down idle screw
Tanks 7 - 12 idle to full throttle easy RPM climb
Go to the track and race tune from there, the HSN may only get turned 2 hours, but the low end will go farther, this setting will give great snap on the bottom and a good transistion to mid and top with good smoke the whole way. when you get to the track pull off the foil and go, if the temp go to 240 260 during 7 - 12 it's fine the settings are still fat you will see how much by the smoke, with this breakin the power robbing pinch will go in about a gallon. after that mark the temps will fall and the final race tune settings can be applied, trying to lean the engine with alot of metal pinch can cause iot to lean bog, flush the HS and lean the LS and the temps will be normal 3 or 4 hours leaning on a tight motor will not work during breakin, with these setting out of the box and changed to what i use the engine will be slightly blubbery on top but be able to get the car moving pretty easy off the bottom.
=============================
Do you still recommend this procedure for breaking-in a 3port race(not 08 version...but brand new) and a 5 port 08 version?
Since I couldn't find this post early enough, I went ahead and broke-in my 3port (mentioned above) using the Racefactor break-in procedure.
My 5port 08 version will be coming in some time this week.
Thanks.
The 5 ports, 7 ports and .25 6 ports will do good with the methode i posted, this was the best way to breakin the engine i found after many different ways, the main purpose was to help get the metal pinch out faster without hurting the motor or rod, i do not recomend WOT, and with what i posted the heat cycles will maintain great compresion after the metal pinch is gone, if your breaking in the engine in the car i have used this methode always, now i just use the bench.
when you do the 5 port use the extra shim, i would check and see first that you have the correct shims to start off with and then place in the extra one, and heat will be to your advantage when doing the engine, use foil and keep it around 220 to 240 with foil on it at all times during breakin.
resinch the carb, use preasure on top of the carb and push down to be sure the o ring is pressed to the case and tighten but don't over do it, you will know how tight to get it by feel, and double check the head bolts and backplate and fire it up.
06-15-2008 | 08:52 PM
#3195
open up the needles 3 turns hold the carb at WOT for two tanks(use a hairdryer or heatgun to keep heat),cooldown, lean it 1/4 turn and run it for another tank, cooldown, lean it out alittle more and pull 1/2 throttle(in smooth pulls) for a few seconds and let off for an equal time for two tanks, CD, lean it out a little more and give smooth full throttle pulls for a few seconds and let off as before(keeping in mind you should still be rich enough that you cannot hit max rpm even when the car is off the ground) do this for three tanks slightly leaning each 1/2 tank. after your done this you are ready to start running the car at about 85% for a few more tanks then race tune.
I breakin my engines like this and am usually ready to race in an hour or so, the engine has been heat cycled and the pinch has been broken so it does do the same thing as the longer methods.
I breakin my engines like this and am usually ready to race in an hour or so, the engine has been heat cycled and the pinch has been broken so it does do the same thing as the longer methods.