Go-Tech Engines Thread
#3331
I had a weird issue pop up today. During practice and the first qual heat, my 3R was awesome and I had tq until a bobble....damn slow marshalls, lol! Anyway, when I went out for the second heat, my buggy flamed out after 4 min. I thought maybe the plug went or something, but instead it ran out of gas. In practice and the first qual, I was able to make 7 min easy. The only change I made was to put on a new clean outer air filter. This doesn't seem right to me. I have no fuel tank or line leaks. I don't know what else could have caused this. Any ideas?
If it was running that rich you would have noticed it in the performance for sure, and if it wasn't leaking fuel, where did it go ???You did fill it up before the heat right ?? Sorry, but I had to ask that

The only thing I can think of is the spring on the tank lid is broken / faulty and the lid is lifting slightly and fuel is splashing out on turns etc. You would think it would definitely effect performance if the lid was not sealing, but who knows with these little buggers. They can pull some weird tricks sometimes. Check the spring and O ring seal anyway. Other than that I'm stumped too.
#3334
Sounds a bit weird
If it was running that rich you would have noticed it in the performance for sure, and if it wasn't leaking fuel, where did it go ???
You did fill it up before the heat right ?? Sorry, but I had to ask that
The only thing I can think of is the spring on the tank lid is broken / faulty and the lid is lifting slightly and fuel is splashing out on turns etc. You would think it would definitely effect performance if the lid was not sealing, but who knows with these little buggers. They can pull some weird tricks sometimes. Check the spring and O ring seal anyway. Other than that I'm stumped too.
If it was running that rich you would have noticed it in the performance for sure, and if it wasn't leaking fuel, where did it go ???You did fill it up before the heat right ?? Sorry, but I had to ask that

The only thing I can think of is the spring on the tank lid is broken / faulty and the lid is lifting slightly and fuel is splashing out on turns etc. You would think it would definitely effect performance if the lid was not sealing, but who knows with these little buggers. They can pull some weird tricks sometimes. Check the spring and O ring seal anyway. Other than that I'm stumped too.
#3335
#3336
Sorry to hear that mate. I don't know anyone that's had that much trouble with their Go-Tech motor. A lot of guys here in NZ run them and love them.
I had a problem blowing plugs like you describe for a little while, but turned out to be my fault as I didn't have the tune correct. I was too rich on the bottom and too lean on the top. Motor ran OK but plugs died on a regular basis. Since I have remedied the tune I haven't blown a plug. I guess you have tried flushing the HSN and tuning with the LSN which seems to be the way to run these motors ? They do tune a little different to other makes it would appear. Mabye you just got a bad apple with an inherint air leak or something. Good luck, and good racing
I had a problem blowing plugs like you describe for a little while, but turned out to be my fault as I didn't have the tune correct. I was too rich on the bottom and too lean on the top. Motor ran OK but plugs died on a regular basis. Since I have remedied the tune I haven't blown a plug. I guess you have tried flushing the HSN and tuning with the LSN which seems to be the way to run these motors ? They do tune a little different to other makes it would appear. Mabye you just got a bad apple with an inherint air leak or something. Good luck, and good racing

I have sealed the whole engine too on the carb and back plate and used green slime on the needles to ensure no air leaks there. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.
#3337
Thanks mate, but I tried all the tuning advice from here, including richening up the top end and leaning the bottom end, but to no avail. If I set the HSN flush and then I leaned in the LSN until it was idling well (about 2 1/2 turns in), then the engine won't run at all. It just sputters when I rry to drive off, I need to lean the HSN in quite a bit to get it to run anywhere near decent. I also kept on getting flameouts all the time???? Engine would die for no reason at all.
I have sealed the whole engine too on the carb and back plate and used green slime on the needles to ensure no air leaks there. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.
I have sealed the whole engine too on the carb and back plate and used green slime on the needles to ensure no air leaks there. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.
One other thing , on my 3p rspec...the hsn needle 1h lean or 1h rich..thro's it all offff....Took my a few min
#3340
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 29
I just purchased a 3p .21 R. I have run about half a gallon through it and I am finding it doesn't have enough bottom end snap. I am running a Go 0801 pipe using TQ fuel. This is in an Xray conversion Truggy.
Any addvise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks...
Any addvise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks...
#3341
Thanks mate, but I tried all the tuning advice from here, including richening up the top end and leaning the bottom end, but to no avail. If I set the HSN flush and then I leaned in the LSN until it was idling well (about 2 1/2 turns in), then the engine won't run at all. It just sputters when I rry to drive off, I need to lean the HSN in quite a bit to get it to run anywhere near decent. I also kept on getting flameouts all the time???? Engine would die for no reason at all.
I have sealed the whole engine too on the carb and back plate and used green slime on the needles to ensure no air leaks there. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.
I have sealed the whole engine too on the carb and back plate and used green slime on the needles to ensure no air leaks there. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.
Don't give up on the Go's Squeeg. Give it a break and try another motor in the future. I think you just got a bad apple, which can happen even with the most expensive motors. In general the Go's are very good value for money
#3342
Nice good snap now. allows the engine to rev a bit more, before clutch hits
#3343
Lean the LSN from here until you get a nice steady idle and you will be sweet.
LSN will probably end up about 2 1/2 turns in from flush, maybe a little more for full race tune depending on fuel, pipe etc. HSN you don't want to go more than about 2 hours in from flush. Go's like a fat top end and a lean bottom end
#3344
I'm running a JP-1 exhaust and 1mm clutch springs with 13/44 CB and spur gear combination on a buggy.
I KNOW that a 12CB or 46 spur would help A LOT on my case.
What i suggest for you is to go down on the CB one step OR even two if the track is too tight and short.Truggies are heavier than buggies but since this engine has the top end then no need for high gearing.
#3345
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 377
HSN flush and LSN 1 1/2 turns in from flush will get you running every time. This is always a good starting setting if you loose the tune completely for some reason.
Lean the LSN from here until you get a nice steady idle and you will be sweet.
LSN will probably end up about 2 1/2 turns in from flush, maybe a little more for full race tune depending on fuel, pipe etc. HSN you don't want to go more than about 2 hours in from flush. Go's like a fat top end and a lean bottom end
Lean the LSN from here until you get a nice steady idle and you will be sweet.
LSN will probably end up about 2 1/2 turns in from flush, maybe a little more for full race tune depending on fuel, pipe etc. HSN you don't want to go more than about 2 hours in from flush. Go's like a fat top end and a lean bottom end




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