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Old 06-03-2010 | 08:48 PM
  #10831  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Ahhh - Matt's liking that MG66, I can tell
Yes I am I got some very good tips from some one we both know and wish we could go there and work with for one month! Just to learn something. Then I would find some down under hotty and have to give the wife the bad news of my nitro addiction. And just how far it has lead me down this dark and fascinating path for which there maybe no cure. But I am seeking professional help,honest honey. Just kidding I wouldn't leave my wife. If she had the money she would send me just for some peace and quiet. Mark, got an extra space in the back of the shop [or outback of shop]for a small tent? I have my own rc stuff and cooler.
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Old 06-03-2010 | 08:51 PM
  #10832  
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Hey ok my lhs has the associated hpi and maybe losi clutch springs. What ones would work with the hb clutch and what rate should i get? Thanks
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Old 06-04-2010 | 09:05 AM
  #10833  
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Originally Posted by kael
Amain doesn't have any .21 Go's listed on their site. This makes me nervous, any inside info?
I was told they are done at a-main. Nice since I do own 4 go-tec's and 2 mg's. The mg-66's are not a problem. answer rc.com sells them and the parts. Along with the a-main fuel. As far as go-tec there are a few dealers on here. We should figure out a way to get a list going on who is a dealer here in the states. And make it a sticky some how. Trey has been saying he will have it on the go web site,still not there. So all Go dealers lets get a list and addresses to get in touch with you going. Also if you need a part or engine just ask here you will have a response in no time flat. I needed some o-rings a few weeks back ended up with enough to do at least 8 engines. Lets just remember for Trey it is a big task getting the product and distribution setup and running. I remember not to long back if you were looking for a go engine part here in the usa you wouldn't even get a response. So now at least you will.
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Old 06-07-2010 | 05:47 AM
  #10834  
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i have a small problem on my mg66 mbx6t, it runs fine, tuning is great but when i come in to pit to top up, it will flameout. but if i top up not to the brim, it runs well. pls advise me what to check
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Old 06-07-2010 | 06:58 AM
  #10835  
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Originally Posted by fuse01
i have a small problem on my mg66 mbx6t, it runs fine, tuning is great but when i come in to pit to top up, it will flameout. but if i top up not to the brim, it runs well. pls advise me what to check
richen the hsn about 2 hours. If your running a fuel filter make sure no leaks. The best way to test that is take it out and then run.But it sounds like the hsn is lean.
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Old 06-07-2010 | 08:31 AM
  #10836  
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Thanks will try.
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Old 06-07-2010 | 07:17 PM
  #10837  
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Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
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Old 06-07-2010 | 07:37 PM
  #10838  
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Originally Posted by racer6888
Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
Glow plug, deck height, Fuel?
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Old 06-07-2010 | 08:05 PM
  #10839  
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OD 97t, .6mm, 30% Blue Thunder HP8
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Old 06-07-2010 | 09:29 PM
  #10840  
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Originally Posted by racer6888
Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
try richen the L/S/N 1 1/2h also try 1.1 springs & debure your clutch shoes.
how old are your clutch bearings ?
if no good & all you seals & clutch are good retune from flush L/H needles
good tuning guides can be found on GRIZZ 1 or MASSIVEMODS web sites
let us know how u go
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Old 06-07-2010 | 09:51 PM
  #10841  
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Originally Posted by racer6888
OD 97t, .6mm, 30% Blue Thunder HP8
Try a 77T, .5mm shimming, and a fresh gallon of 30%.
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Old 06-07-2010 | 11:01 PM
  #10842  
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Default 3 port sport

guys i got a friemd that has a 3 port sport.21 in a buggy. and the motor want to run 300 degrees to make any power, does the motor just not make any power to race or what? hes got an .086 pipe 30 % fuel, we have used 2 temp guns that r reading the same, and the spit test. we r getting 7.30 minutes out of a tank, and smokes good???? but y the hi temps ? what r we missing on this motor?? how much shimmimg does it need for 30% fuel??
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Old 06-08-2010 | 12:52 AM
  #10843  
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Originally Posted by racer6888
Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
Sounds like an early clutch. Try the 1.1 springs as recommended.
Other thing it could be is your brakes are binding - ie they are on at idle, and are not releasing fully until the throttle is opened up some. Check that when your throttle slide is fully closed your brakes are completely free and the car will roll. Reset your brake rods etc if required.

Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
guys i got a friemd that has a 3 port sport.21 in a buggy. and the motor want to run 300 degrees to make any power, does the motor just not make any power to race or what? hes got an .086 pipe 30 % fuel, we have used 2 temp guns that r reading the same, and the spit test. we r getting 7.30 minutes out of a tank, and smokes good???? but y the hi temps ? what r we missing on this motor?? how much shimmimg does it need for 30% fuel??
3 Port with an 086 should be a weapon. Couple of things-
If you have the long needle carb, you are most likely too lean on the HSN. This will kill the power and make it run hot, plus lean bog at low tank levels. Combined with this you may well be way too rich on the bottom end with a too wide an idle gap as well. This also applies to the short needle carb in most cases.
Reset your idle gap to .7mm max. Long needle set HSN to flush, LSN to 1.5 turns in from flush and tune from there. Short needle carb set the HSN to 1 turn in from flush and the LSN 1.5 turns in from flush and tune from there, being careful not to go too lean on the top end in both cases.
IMPORTANT - If the motor won't idle at .7mm idle gap, lean the bottom end needle until it will idle - DO NOT ADJUST THE IDLE GAP. This is where the problem starts and you end up with a big idle gap and rich bottom end, which means you need to run the top end really lean to compensate.

Secondly, you may have an air leak somewhere. Motor or fuel system.

Run stock shimming for 30%. This is 1 x .3mm alloy shim and 2 x .1mm brass shims. Total shim stack of .5mm. Run a medium temp plug. You should be seeing 9 min easy with that pipe. Lack of run time is coming from the rich bottom end / wide idle gap I would say.
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Old 06-08-2010 | 04:19 AM
  #10844  
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guess which one has a go tech

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 06-08-2010 | 05:23 AM
  #10845  
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If i use 20% nitro i have to use ?mm shims?
I use odonel medium plug.
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