Go-Tech Engines Thread
Yes I am I got some very good tips from some one we both know and wish we could go there and work with for one month! Just to learn something. Then I would find some down under hotty and have to give the wife the bad news of my nitro addiction. And just how far it has lead me down this dark and fascinating path for which there maybe no cure. But I am seeking professional help,honest honey. Just kidding I wouldn't leave my wife. If she had the money she would send me just for some peace and quiet. Mark, got an extra space in the back of the shop [or outback of shop]for a small tent? I have my own rc stuff and cooler.









I was told they are done at a-main. Nice since I do own 4 go-tec's and 2 mg's. The mg-66's are not a problem. answer rc.com sells them and the parts. Along with the a-main fuel. As far as go-tec there are a few dealers on here. We should figure out a way to get a list going on who is a dealer here in the states. And make it a sticky some how. Trey has been saying he will have it on the go web site,still not there. So all Go dealers lets get a list and addresses to get in touch with you going. Also if you need a part or engine just ask here you will have a response in no time flat. I needed some o-rings a few weeks back ended up with enough to do at least 8 engines. Lets just remember for Trey it is a big task getting the product and distribution setup and running. I remember not to long back if you were looking for a go engine part here in the usa you wouldn't even get a response. So now at least you will.
richen the hsn about 2 hours. If your running a fuel filter make sure no leaks. The best way to test that is take it out and then run.But it sounds like the hsn is lean.
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Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
Tech Adept
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Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
how old are your clutch bearings ?
if no good & all you seals & clutch are good retune from flush L/H needles
good tuning guides can be found on GRIZZ 1 or MASSIVEMODS web sites
let us know how u go
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,161
guys i got a friemd that has a 3 port sport.21 in a buggy. and the motor want to run 300 degrees to make any power, does the motor just not make any power to race or what? hes got an .086 pipe 30 % fuel, we have used 2 temp guns that r reading the same, and the spit test. we r getting 7.30 minutes out of a tank, and smokes good???? but y the hi temps ? what r we missing on this motor?? how much shimmimg does it need for 30% fuel??
Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all.
James W.
Other thing it could be is your brakes are binding - ie they are on at idle, and are not releasing fully until the throttle is opened up some. Check that when your throttle slide is fully closed your brakes are completely free and the car will roll. Reset your brake rods etc if required.
guys i got a friemd that has a 3 port sport.21 in a buggy. and the motor want to run 300 degrees to make any power, does the motor just not make any power to race or what? hes got an .086 pipe 30 % fuel, we have used 2 temp guns that r reading the same, and the spit test. we r getting 7.30 minutes out of a tank, and smokes good???? but y the hi temps ? what r we missing on this motor?? how much shimmimg does it need for 30% fuel??
If you have the long needle carb, you are most likely too lean on the HSN. This will kill the power and make it run hot, plus lean bog at low tank levels. Combined with this you may well be way too rich on the bottom end with a too wide an idle gap as well. This also applies to the short needle carb in most cases.
Reset your idle gap to .7mm max. Long needle set HSN to flush, LSN to 1.5 turns in from flush and tune from there. Short needle carb set the HSN to 1 turn in from flush and the LSN 1.5 turns in from flush and tune from there, being careful not to go too lean on the top end in both cases.
IMPORTANT - If the motor won't idle at .7mm idle gap, lean the bottom end needle until it will idle - DO NOT ADJUST THE IDLE GAP. This is where the problem starts and you end up with a big idle gap and rich bottom end, which means you need to run the top end really lean to compensate.
Secondly, you may have an air leak somewhere. Motor or fuel system.
Run stock shimming for 30%. This is 1 x .3mm alloy shim and 2 x .1mm brass shims. Total shim stack of .5mm. Run a medium temp plug. You should be seeing 9 min easy with that pipe. Lack of run time is coming from the rich bottom end / wide idle gap I would say.
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This makes me nervous, any inside info?