Originally Posted by bigmatt

Well Grizz I took the advice you posted above for the RB mod 3 port I was breaking in and my MG-66. I had the engines out of the car and reset the idle gaps and needles to flush. I was surprised to see how much in fact leaning the lsn effected the idle gap. Needless to say they both run like rapped apes. I didn't know the mg could have more power,but my god that thing is wicked! As you know I really love my 3 port. Modded it is very fast. Since my tune was way off on the mg I thought the 3 port was almost as fast as the mg. No!!!!!! And I tried the 2 pipes on them. The go 2072[mg-66 loves it] and the dynamite 086[3 port likes it] When I had the 086 on the mg it felt snappier down low on a run up too double-triples,but ran out of leg. And that's a top end pipe. The 086 on my 3 port makes it a small wild animal all around. The 2072 pipe on the 3 port tamed it all around,but still had good top end but mileage suffered. The mg-66 with the 2072 pipe is giving me 12:20's per tank,and the 3 port 13:30's+best 14:02. I am going to install the smallest restrictor I have for the mg,along with some softer clutch springs . Only to get some traction. My friend watching the car with the mg in it said it would go a hell of a lot faster if we could get the power to the ground. WE have 2 long straights on the track and the tires would just spin the whole way until I let off the throttle. When I was triggering the throttle at half -to full it was hooking up and like a rocket. But we both know how hard it is to do that all the time The only other problem is the car wants to wheely. It's going at a good pace,hit a little bump and up comes the front. I can see the front wanting to pop up when ever I get on the gas. Any suggestions?

Originally Posted by grizz1

Ahhh - Matt's liking that MG66, I can tell

Originally Posted by MAGPIE-121

on yah flanno, 60 lt (over 15 gallons) & the toros couldn't touch u on the straights
some nice passing moves too, well done
have u changed the rod yet ?

Originally Posted by grizz1

Sounds like an early clutch. Try the 1.1 springs as recommended.
Other thing it could be is your brakes are binding - ie they are on at idle, and are not releasing fully until the throttle is opened up some. Check that when your throttle slide is fully closed your brakes are completely free and the car will roll. Reset your brake rods etc if required.



3 Port with an 086 should be a weapon. Couple of things-
If you have the long needle carb, you are most likely too lean on the HSN. This will kill the power and make it run hot, plus lean bog at low tank levels. Combined with this you may well be way too rich on the bottom end with a too wide an idle gap as well. This also applies to the short needle carb in most cases.
Reset your idle gap to .7mm max. Long needle set HSN to flush, LSN to 1.5 turns in from flush and tune from there. Short needle carb set the HSN to 1 turn in from flush and the LSN 1.5 turns in from flush and tune from there, being careful not to go too lean on the top end in both cases.
IMPORTANT - If the motor won't idle at .7mm idle gap, lean the bottom end needle until it will idle - DO NOT ADJUST THE IDLE GAP. This is where the problem starts and you end up with a big idle gap and rich bottom end, which means you need to run the top end really lean to compensate.

Secondly, you may have an air leak somewhere. Motor or fuel system.

Run stock shimming for 30%. This is 1 x .3mm alloy shim and 2 x .1mm brass shims. Total shim stack of .5mm. Run a medium temp plug. You should be seeing 9 min easy with that pipe. Lack of run time is coming from the rich bottom end / wide idle gap I would say.

Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77

what is the measurement on the needle or what do i look for on the needle for long or short? the motor only came with 1 shim?? and i think that its like u said cause the idle gap is over 1mm. thank you grizzs!!!!