It will change the roll center (raise it) and increase anti-dive.

the roll center change seems minimal but what effect does increasing the anti-dive have on the car? With the added caster.

Lookin good Steve !!

Hey are you heading up to CT for the ROAR race at Speedzone ??

I tried that before and the car does not handle well. You loose some steering for corner entry.

I get much better and consistent lap times without anti dive.

How do you want me to prove it. I have had both at my shop, and they are the same. Not sure about tower, but could have someone typed it incorrectly? I will gladly measure it tomorrow when I'm at the shop.

Thanks for the reply. I know of those adjustments already though. I'm trying to get more caster and still keep the hinge pins level. But, I really appreciate your help.

I am running a standard MSX, and put the Evo V short arms on the car.

I noticed that if I followed the 1B-1A on the front, which people have mentioned in this thread, but notice that the drive is really bound up if I do that. When I run 1C-1A on the front, the drive is back to being smooth.

Anyone else notice any binding issues on the MSX with the short arms on the front end with the 1B-1A setup?

what lenngth dog bones are you using im sure ive read you should use the 42mm ones with the short arms

Running 46mm, and what I have seen, no one has mentioned that fact. The car seems fine with the C-A front toe blocks setup. Considering the angle of the hinge pins on the front in the kit are 2 deg toe out, and with C-A it runs 1 deg, interesting to see what happens.

Thanks, Don. I'm not going to make it this weekend. Building the MSXX got me exciting to race outdoor. If only it gets warmer. Good luck and thanks for representing "blue crew."

Hey Steve, Looks like Madness in CT. has there date for there first outdoor race on the 28th of April. Hope to be mixing it up with ya Bro!

We can set-up a Tamiya Area. Can't wait to run outdoors!

Actually, it will decrease the anti-dive... to increase it you need to raise the rear block (which also reduces the castor angle).

A bit of front kick-up is a good thing on bumpy tracks, as it allows it to absorb the bumps better. From memory, 0.8mm under either block changes the castor angle by 1°,

I have actually used shims under the rear block before, and that seemed to work well when I was using a spool, and racing on a tight track. A little less castor increases initial steering, and the arm angle allows the car to lean on the front more.

HiH
Ed

I have run the MRE with 1B-1A up front with the short arms (actually never ran the original arms) for quite some time...no binding...use 42 drive shafts (but have kept the 46 ones in the rear)

EDIT: Using the 415 MSX one-way (not the MRE one-way)

Hey Tamiyarcracer; the Tower Hobbies site is known for putting-up wrong info. I`ll contact Tamiya and find out what`s up with that Turnbuckle Wrench.
-53602 - Tamiya Turnbuckle Wrench is the Silver Aluminum Wrench.....?
-49197 - Tamiya Turnbuckle Wrench is the Blue Aluminum Wrench.

They could be both 4mm Wrenches; but in different colors.

I`ll get back with direct info on it.

Take Care

same here with the 46mm dogbones and B/A the driveshafts pins used to be right at the end of the one way outdrive and bind, especially when the suspension is compressed. This doesn't happen with the new MRE one way I may add. Switching to the 42mm outdrives is ok but would be better using the original 415 one way outdrives which are a bit offset.